Jump to content

epicfish

SRC Member
  • Posts

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by epicfish

  1. Not sure of its species but im pretty sure you cant prevent it from moving around...they will settle when they feel like it. Usually it attaches itself to a good lighting position and depending on the anemone, good flow. It depends on the animal otself really. But please dont put it under direct flow, the feedback might tear its skin.

  2. I have hermit crabs...even a sea urchin and snails. 2 algae blennys. And my pbt. None will go near the green stuff. Im thinking of just going full refugium at this point. I have rowaphos running too and i check to see that my phosphates are low, it somehow have curbed the spread but where they are not spreading, the HA are growing.

  3. I have a teco ra680 serviced 2 months ago and kept in store cuz i changed bigger chiller already. As far as i know im the second owner of the chiller been using for close to a year before the switch. 1/2 hp according to website and label. Selling for 300 negotiable will throw in 2 spare hose nuts that cant be found in sg anymore due to no longer in circulation. Pm me if interesred.

  4. Think of it as 2 separate elements, if you add saltwater its salt + water. So if its just water its just water+salt+ water, therefore, you are adding more water to the ratio of available salt, so yes you still have to add salt to the same ratio.

    If you drink kopi, you top up kopi, you still get kopi, if you add water you will get a very watery taste which is not kopi. Same logic.

  5. For biopellets, its a reaction with the water that creates a continous but slow foodsource for the bacteria, so the die off wouldnt be drastic and your nitrate can have a better ppm adjustment. In a refugium, the algae that is cultivated in it will absorb the nitrates which acts as a biological filter. This will help to stem algae growth in the main display as well as maintain ur nitrate levels.

  6. Adding bacteria to speed up process is basically just multiplying the bacteria count which from my earlier theory means theres gonna be a die off when the foodsource has depleted which will create nitrate bloom after the initial die off. Usually by this time i will have biopellets or refugium up and running to maintain the status quo. If you dont have either of these equipment running, i would adopt a wait and see approach. I am very cautious when it comes to cycling, ihave waited as long as a month for my 4ft before adding fishes. Even then, i feel its not enough as i can still observe traces of nitrate and phosphate

  7. Currently having algae problems but it seems my last water change have had an effct on reducing phosphates and the hairs are starting to recede. I was looking into sea hares which feed on the algae.bproblem is, they die easily if lack of food. According to some websites, thy eat alot and i doubt my tank has emough food for it other than the initial clean up.

    Some reefers from overseas share a 'common' sea hare and pass it around so as not to endanger the species.

    Have anyone in sg done this? My crew now consists of a singlebsea urchin and legion of snails, but they wont touch the larger hair algae.

  8. What brand testkit u use? Salifert? You want to check for phosphates too but main thing is nitrate. If its indeed less than 10 ppm wait awhile see if it stays that way, because bacteria may still be dying off when they lack ammonia to consume so usually will bounce back some nitrate. When the tank is running continously good ppm level, then its time u can put the fishes. I aleays start with a small fish first and dont put in alot of livestock at once.

  9. Selling point for mewas the low power consumtion compared to other models. Used it in an open sump for my old 2ft for abt 1 yezr before upgrade and now its powering my frind's new 3ft setup.very good pump all round i say.

×
×
  • Create New...