blusafe

Try tank/bucket transfer procedure. Quickest, easiest, simplest prophylactic ich treatment. http://reefcentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=347 And of course, QT. You have to accept that there are no easy fixes. No easy fix will be a 100%, or even 80% solution. If you got a disease-free tang, no QT, and healthy, that's luck not skill. Luck will run out.

If you are having cyanobact bloom all over everything with 3 month old tank, your live rock is probably having mass die-off. Surprising the corals are not responding. I'm guessing that's where all your pollution is coming from if your bio-load is light, little nutrient input, etc etc.

Sixline wrasse also jump. Found mine dried out on the floor one day...

I had one that ate my pellet-trained mandarin goby which was 1.5 bigger than the frog....managed to train him to eat chopped market prawn after 2 weeks... Sadly, he still prefer the big mandarin....

Only way to remove all worms is to have no sand, rocks, or decorations...running a sterile FOW NO LR display. Leave them alone unless you see damaged corals or missing fish. Then fill panty hose with meaty foods, place in tank overnight, remove in morning. Their legs and mouth parts get stuck. You have serious problems if you got this: http://www.oregonreef.com/sub_worm.htm

1 min dips are useful. I'm sure you have seen the amount of stuff falling off a wild fish during fw dip even after 1 min. I do not agree with touching the fish during the dip/bath. If the fish is tolerating the procedure, leave it alone. They don't like being poked and prodded. It only needs to breath normally, not swim. They do not need a human finger adding extra stress just to reassure you they are alive. Zoanthids will tolerate a fw dip better than the nudis. I dipped two zoanthid rocks in 10min fw with Bayer's (an American pesticide) insect killer and have not seen the orange nudis since. Also watch out for small red snails that will irritate the zoas. I had to cut them off the rock. My nudi: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2311327 Aeolids: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rs/ Yes...most people that fear dips don't understand it's a preventative and not a cure for weak fish. If they are weak, they need quarantine and treatment. UV also kills algae spores so that's why you have clear water. Depending on UV intensity, flow rate, etc etc...you are killing either parasites, bacteria, or algae but not always all at the same time. UV will render antibiotics useless but not much else.

They come in wild rock, sand, etc. They feast on detritus, plankton, and film algae. Most are good and your animals will feast. I am planning to build a refugium to house these little things for my mandarins. Regarding the word "pod" in aquarium usage: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-08/rs/ More than you wanted to know about copepods: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-10/rs/

Here is a great guide: http://www.carlosreef.com/AnemoneFAQ.pdf My favorite part is when it breaks down three anemone categories in terms of difficulty: "Difficult...More Difficult...Most Difficult" Anemones are NOT for the inexperienced or lazy. I suspect they require the MOST STABLE and EXCELLENT conditions to SURVIVE, not to mention grow and thrive. "they are ancient animals which may live for hundreds of years in the wild, sustaining many generations of clownfish families. That is until a keen reef keeper comes along, and kills it within a matter of weeks!!" -A most beautiful and humbling truth. I'll come back to nems after waiting a few years and reading a few books.

For micro-algae use pods, lots of pods. They do not mess around when cleaning glass if you don't mid having little white critters everywhere.

Probably cleaner than your off-the-shelf RODI, but you will need testing to be sure - TDS, PO4, NO4, heavy metals (copper), Cl2, NH2Cl, NH3, and NH4.

Blue tangs are more finicky than yellow. YT are the easiest in the surgeonfish group. The best way to acclimate and train a fish is to quarantine! QT QT QT procedure is a must yet people love to skip this step. YT need more green, marine matter than anything else. I read somewhere of 60-70% of their diet should be green. I primarily feed my YT Hikari Seaweed Extreme pellets and it loves them.

What does your tank "look" like? I cycled for six weeks before I added my first two nemos. There was a HUGE brown diatom bloom that covered EVERYTHING inside the tank. The reason was because of MASS DIE-OFF inside the LR, which led to the bloom 1-2 weeks later. You could hand remove sheets of this stuff! But don't! Diatoms are a symptom not cause and are helping consume nutrients in the water. If you added wild LR, chances are that you will soon have a diatom bloom. Once the bloom subsides ON ITS OWN - then it's probably time to add a FEW fish. Keep in mind, your tank is never fully "cycled." The bacteria population of a stable, 2-nemo tank is different from a stable, 20-nemo tank regardless of water volume. If you add bio-load or nutrients (dead animals, too much food, etc), your tank will "mini-cycle" and grow more bacteria until it stabilizes.

Reactors maximize water flow, canisters also have water flow. It will work but efficiency is not as high as a reactor. I would take your reactor money and spend it on a quality skimmer and/or RODI. RODI was not previously mentioned. You may want to test source water for NO4.

24 is ideal, 28 is about your upper limit for the hardiest species to survive. Stability is more important than the actual temp.

You forgot to talk about freshwater dip procedure. You can google, but here is what I do. Tools: small container for water, flashlight, net (optional), clock/watch Materials: RO water (tap is fine), methylene blue *Ensure dip water is same temp as fish water. I really should check pH (all the procedures tell you to) but I don't have a meter. For temp you can float the fish bag inside the dip water. For pH use any commercial acid/base buffering solution. *Add a few drops of methylene blue to dip water until it turns moderate-dark blue. *Hand carry the fish (if able) into dip water. *I dip fish for five minutes or whatvever they can tolerate - whichever is less. The trick is to closely monitor for distress. If they are "playing dead," lethargic, laying on side - this is NOT DISTRESS. The fw is having a soothing, calming effect. If darting around continuously, attempting to jump, extremely rapid gill movement, and sucking air at the surface - THIS IS STRESS. Also, do NOT dip fish if they appear weak or dip for a shorter time (60 secs or so). I would still use the methylene blue for sick/weak fish. *The flashlight is a MUST! *Move fish to QT. Observe for any blue "staining" as this will give you a hint to tissue damage. Only weak tissue should stain. *Observe the horrendous amount of baddies that fall off! Other stuff *Try to use separate dip water for each fish. There are bad guys that merely "fall off" but survive the dip. You may be contaminating the QT. *Inverts can not tolerate dips. But strangely I hear corals can? <-not sure on this one.

I got one female, one male at Aquamarine about three weeks ago. There are big ones at Coral Farm as of last week. Both of mine are happy and fat, but they love to hide! Also, they are PRONE TO ICH. They brought the stuff into my tank and now I have quarantined one yellow tang, one algae blenny, and five ocellaris. I have completed four tank transfers at 48 hrs each and believe the ich is gone from the QT fish. They will be QT for at least another three weeks. As for the mandarins, I need to find a live, constant food source so I can QT. I will use high and dry method to catch them, feed baby brine shrimp, then train to eat frozen foods then maybe pellets. I will tank transfer them as well. The display will go fallow six weeks... LESSON HERE - MANDARINS CAN AND DO GET SICK

"sukebe nan desu yo"...definitely a sukebe with those eyes

CONS: *Corals are fake, and obviously so *Only time I have seen a dead fish in a large public aquarium (large regal blue tang) *Sloppy maintenance - someone else mentioned cyano and hair algae *Small and uninnovative design *Expensive admission *Weak public education aspect *No rare or unique specimens *Misleading advertising as world's "largest oceanarium," implying "largest public aquarium." There are different definitions. Just depends on what's most important - a beautiful, interesting tank with educational/entertainment value or its sheer volume and anti-climactic "wow" factor. -Largest number of specimens is Georgia Aquarium: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georgia_Aquarium -The MLP ocean tank lacks corals. Dubai Mall packs them in: http://www.touropia.com/explore/united-arab-emirates/dubai_mall_aquarium/ -At least the National Aquarium in Washington D.C. attempts to recreate a coral habitat: http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2013/07/30/national-aquarium-unveils-worlds-largest-reproduction-of-indo-pacific-coral-reef/ PROS: *Oceanarium is show-stopper with its manta rays *Maritime history exhibit besides the cheesy theater shows Quality needs to be stressed over quantity. As a private, for-profit organization, the SEA Aquarium comes off as a rushed product, sloppy, lacking in public education, and poor maintenance standards. There is huge volume of water but it would be relatively easy to create a big tank, fill it with water and big animals, then run around and exclaim you have the world's biggest aquarium. Non-profit public aquarium that focuses on conservation, research, and education. The difference is clear. A subjective argument can be made for "world's largest, quality research aquarium" vs. "for-profit, rushed, algae-ridden, poor animal health, largest volumage of liquid aquarium." If someone told me they saw dead fish and bad algae run amok, I would have steered clear of this place. Not recommended for any visitors. Go to Underwater World instead.