Jackson6745

What is the Magnesium level in Coralife?

Just curious, what are your photoperiods on your BB tanks? I am running my halides for 2 1/2hrs daily and VHO actinics for 8hrs. If I increase the halide photoperiod the coral colors start to lighten up a little.

I've been BB for 8 months and I agree 100% with everything you said.

Hey, thanks for the nice comments guys

WOW!!!!! What do you call this piece? Amazing color!

I am actually trying to keep a traceable amount of Phosphate in the system. If I keep my nutrients too low my corals fade in color. By keeping a small amount of phosphate in my system, my corals stay dark in color (deep colors). In my experience if I keep my tank at a super low nutrient level I have to shorten my photoperiod to around 2 hrs to keep corals from bleaching. This would be great if I was running a frag tank, but I actually like to look at my tank throughout the day Keeping a little higher of a nutrient level allows me to keep a 6hr MH photoperiod without coral bleaching and deeper colors. Some of you use amino acids to achieve something like this, I just feed my fish more Thanks for the nice comments guys

Thanks. I've been a member here for a while but more of a lurker rather than a poster you guys know your stuff over here. I am from the states, in New York. later, Rich

Not really worried about corraline algae on the sandbed. It would grow even if I lowered the KH.

Thats weird, I don't know why they would rename the chiller

I poured epoxy over starboard and sprinkled on some sand. I used a pour-on-epoxy which is used to create a high gloss finish on wood furniture. One the epoxy dries it feels like sand paper. Water parameters: calcium 440ppm, alk 10dkh, magnesium 1300ppm, PH 8.1-8.3, temp 79-80F, phosphate .02, nitrate undectable

Thanks Calciumreef. Yes that is a faux sandbed. I didnt like the look of a plaid glass or starboard bottom

Oregon Tort

The finished product

The Fish closet where the chiller and topoff and all other junk is hidden

Side of tank

My 120G System -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flow: GenX PCX55 return pump plumbed to 2 penductors + 2 Tunze stream 6100's w/multicontroller. Filtration: MR2 dual beckett skimmer with an upgraded Pan world 200PS pump. Micron filter bags are also used. Lighting: 2x250 DE 10k BLV's (PFO mini pendants) PFO HQI ballast + 3 110w URI VHO actinics on an IC660 ballast Misc Equipment: pacific coast 1/4 HP chiller, Geo calcium reactor, Ranco dual stage temp controller, Tunze osmalator (top off), Milwaukee PH controller Maintence: Skimmer throat is cleaned weekely and waste collecter emptied every other day or so. Micron bags changed every 2-3 days. Each morning the tank recieves a Tunze blast where I remove the stream from the bracket and blast any detritus free from the rocks. This really helps keeping the tank clean. 25 gallon water changes are usually done every other week or so. Anyway, Here's the pics

Looks like montipora undata. Nice Piece!

When I do water changes 1/3 of my acros are exposed to the air. After I'm done I do notice that all the exposed corals mucus, but in 30mins - 1hr all SPS look normal again with normal polyp extension. I have not lost any corals to this but I would also like to know if air exposure can damage SPS.

Thanks Achilles! The Seio's are working great so far. The SPS have shown greater polyp extension since I added them. I have them running for 2 months with no problems. I do give a vinegar bath every 2 weeks to keep them running smooth.

An Updated Photo

When I upgraded my lights a couple of months ago the color of the coraline algae faded some. It is a very light pink color, you can see it all over the back glass...