tineng

bro.....i run my old 2 footer 1 month without anything, 2nd month with a single clown and corals after 6 months!!!! even my current office nano took 3 months before adding in my first fish! I have also known another bro who left his tank only with saltwater and rocks for 6 months....the extreme is another one who only have rocks in a tub for and entire year (with water change, rowaphos and Deltec skimmer running!!!!)......i am suspecting there are ton of patient people that i don;t know.... Seriously....what you are doing cannot be consisder patient..... :D

bro tjchan, you sure about that? i have always thought that although both FW and marine at called ich....they are a totally different kind of parasites all together.....as such mechication for FW ich might not work for SW ich. Could UV and good health of the fish be the main reason for the recovery??? NIKA might have already been neutrize by other stuff in your tank (eg. Carbon)... Clowny Lover, Hypo is a method where the tank Sal is drop to 14ppt. Its not a product to be purchase, but a method of QT'ing fishes...i think there is some thread in SRC by Weilong regarding this....

guys, its very UNLIKELY that crab can be the main culprit. Unless its much bigger then the fish.....for your case, for a crab to be able to attack and kill a royal gama, it has to be at least 3-4 inch big!!! imagine this, if you are sleeping and a dog bites you....you would likely to be woken up and kick at the dog/run away before it can eat you....same thing for the fish....unless the crab is significantly large that it could grab and hold on to the fish with its pincher, its unlikely it will be able to kill an otherwise healthy fish....also crabs like other animals will go for easy food rather then something it has to fight for....so likely, going for detrits, pods, algae, fish pool, left over food etc, rather then a live fish that it will have problem with - heck, your corals will probably be in more danger then your fish...its the law of nature, each animals are evolved to make the best use of avialable energy..... look for other cause, water parameter, lack of a proper enviroment (for example, some fish needs sand bed), feeding, ich, stock selection, proper accemilmtie....etc..... (PS: i had a super large 4 inch hariy crab in my old setup before, but my fishes, even those below 4 inch has never been killed before)

aiya, with the kind of discrptancy found, its very easy to verfiy....just get a new salt mix or buy a pack of NSW...then test....even with tap water, the reading should not exceed the 100mg range.... anyway, my personal experience with Salifert found the results to be quite inconsistance between batches and sometime even tests!

i had that kind of rock when i was newbie.....just take out the rock and wash/brush out the white stuff.....then complete water change.... did not bake the rock under the sun though....if you not careful it will attract flys and all sort of unhealthy insects......

bro, no offence, your first post was opn 8 sept.....not only 14 sept....you sure you really fully cycle already???? go slow la....for a 2 footer, you need to be really really patient with it....i had a 2 footer running on an external canister filter once....had the tank running with only live rock for a month before putting in my first clown fish....stocking was done 1 fish a month, untill i have about 4 fish...first coral was a mushroon and that was put in only after 6 months.... in layman terms, i think you can roughly tell a true percula from a common clown fish, the black strips are more prononce then the common clown....of course price range is also the above $10 range....

salifert....i think its the choice for a lot of reefers here.... I also don't test for Ammonia, Nitrite or Nitrate ....but i do test for Salinity. Bob is right, you do have to do a lot of reading....that IMO is more important then anything else..... personally, i think if you 'cheap' fish has been with you for sometime, i think its not really the issue with ammonia.... but adding 3 butterfly and 2 tang at one shot.....might not be too wise a thing to do....also how do you introduce you to the tank? do you drip in your tank water to the bags or just throw the fishes in straight????

errrr...ian, i think ca 480 is a bit on the high side....there could potentionally be percipitation if CA is kept at this value.....more realistically my feeling is a slightly narrower band of 380-420ppm......

start off with manual dosing first. when you get the hang of things then decide if you need a CR. manual dosing, gives you a 'feel' of how to manage your parameters...it will be invaulable experience at a later stage if you decide to get a CR as making correction to the water parameter would be second nature to you already.....

upz....closet offer now is at $200. more information can be found at RM website. its almost the same as the 27" model except i have gotten RM to shorten it to fit into my cabinet (slightly less then 24")....

Upgraded to a bigger RM skimmer..... so have a 23.5" custom size RM beckett skimmer (without pump) for sale. should be able to fit to most cabinate. its an insump model, so a rio HF 20 should be enough to drive it. Its used for slightly less then a year, because my sump has no light, so no calcium deposit or coraline agale....looks quite new.... looking at S$250. Collection will be at Bedok North area.

bro, do take things with a pinch of salt....its says how that its on par with MH, but it never states the brand and type of ballast of the bulb use. there can be quite a huge different with using mag ballast as compare to e-ballast. Also most SPS users not use 14k or 10k tubes which is about double that of conventional 20k tubes in terms of PAR.... life of LED no doubt is 50,000hour.....but so say many of the manuafacure of MH bulb which goes something like 2-3 year....however, most people change their bulb in less then a year not because the bulb cannot light up anymore, but because of temperature shift....to date i still can't find any info about temp shift for LED..... having said all this, its still an interesting technology, but at $3000 plus....you might seriously want to consisder.....

also depends on what you keep.....SPS has higher lights requirements, so a slight shift in color spectrum will change the color and growth of the SPS....thats why most SPS keep will change thier bulbs often.....

actually it is an offence....nothing much you can do really...when it was TP if you have a vaild reason, they would still consisder, but the chances from CISCO will be much stricter as they have to follow the guidelines that they complied to during tendering for the project.....good luck man..... i was book once when there were no white lines, was at a big gap between 2 double yellow lines.....perfectly legal....yet still booked for obstruction of traffic.....when there was clearly no cars.....after write in also no use, instead, there extended the double yellow lines to cover the gaps.....

upz, willing to consider trade for things of equal value?

upz....new price with the extra bulbs cause well in access of $400....

upz

the last quote i got last month for $1000 was for the 8000 Litres....so you sure the 4500 going at that price range???? who you got it from?

1 set of victron lights 150w with ballast and old bulb (BLV 10k)...$50

upz

upz

confirm selling as my current sump design does not allow for it to be install....... anyone interested please PM....

don't say that leh....its only a pair of tickets.... anyway, touch by the response from some of the bro here and i must really say a big thank you..... anyway found a pair of tickets already.....really thanks for all your help..

...came to realised that all my 10 old years working, she have never spent a single cent from the account i gave her..... so first time she ask for something must find a way to get it for her.....