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tineng

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Posts posted by tineng

  1. you might have to wait it out.....i thought you only had your tank for 3 weeks????

    for me only put in 1 clown after 3 weeks....and wasn't until 1 months later then begin to stock up and stop at 4 fishes....but then, mine is only a 2 footer....

    You would have to clean the filter woll regularly to prevent it from being a nitrate factory....

  2. I had the same problem as yours initially. I was using Sera nitrate test kit which gave me readings of >40 ppm. I then brought a sample of my water over to my friend's place and using his salifert kit, the reading was 25 ppm. I immediately threw away my sera kit. <_< Try getting a second reading with another kit. Subsequent water changes then brought my nitrate levels. BTW, what skimmer are you using?

    funny....i tested my Sera test kit on my tank and it shows 80ppm. on tap water and sea water from LFS shows abt 5ppm....

    remove the sponge filters and wool for my canister and ppm actually drops to 5 ppm using the sera test kit after 2 weeks.....everything seems consistant with the advise i've gotten so far...so not really sure if Sera test kits are really that inaccurate....

  3. Hi guys...

    Looking further into the discssion, i found this. Its a controller to control disco lights.....

    so of them even using it as a wave maker!!! apperantly it can even respond to noise!!! imagine the wave dancing to the sound of disco!!!!

    Anyway, I'll try to find out where in Singapore they sell this....if any bro seen it before appriciate if they could let the rest of us know!!!

  4. pyramid snail are very tiny snail ard the size of a rice grain and they are no monster to be mess with......... Treatment is none :D:D and only biological method of removal through using certain juv coris(clown coris is the fish i have lots of success with) or leopard wrasse

    you can physically remove the snails, but that is only if there are on the clams....read from the net 6 line wrasse prey on these snails.....not did not succeed because my wrasse died in QT.... :(

  5. Hi Tineng,

    Analysis of DOC is a bit expensive as it has to be sent to a proper laboratory so a cheaper way is to do a last man standing contest as it will show how effective the skimmer is in squeezing out the last drop of DOC.

    Dun think the last skimmer standing idea would be fair, because tank condition is different the the skimmer that is still skimmer at the end of the day might won because there are simply too high a level of DOC in the tank... :D

    Measurement of some DOC values will likely be more accurate....but unless someone has access to the neccessary lab equipment, I guess it cannot be done.... :erm:

  6. Sorry if i raise a stupid question, I'm still quite new to this hobby...But is there a way to measure dissolve organics in seawater?

    If there is, wouldn't measuring the level of dissolve organics in the tank before and after the skimmer runs for sometime be a more interesting measurement then just numeric calculation of air suction????

  7. price war = :lol::D:P:lol::D:P for consumers???

    I think like it or not, with more and more LFS, price war is already begining...for example, i can now find Weipro 2011 selling for S$24 - cheaper then what some of the reefer is selling 2nd hand..... :nuke:

    by having pricing information readily at hand, retailer are no longer kept in the dark about what their competitors are doing or kept guessing the fair market price for products. They would for example, recongise why some of their items can't seems to sell, I have seen LFS selling items way above their competitor simply because they have no idea the going rate, all they know is price = cost+margin -- for all you know, their suppliers might be charging them higher rates then other shops....

    Retailer must learn to bring out their strenght and use these pricing information to their advantage for example, if they know that the cheapest shop offering item A is S$X but it is in Tuas then they might want to sell the item at S$X+3 bacause their location is CBD and their clientelle and S$3 is too little for their clientelle to travel. He might also want to carry perishables only and leave high ticket items such as MH to the niche player.....because reefers like us will alway hunt around and publish price info, he will always have the most updated and is better able to react to competition....

    I really hope our sponsers will see the value of pricing information to their business and support the idea - the way i see it, a win-win formula for everyone (except the non-creative retailers.... :evil: )

  8. But will it harms the clam if they are exposed to too much lights? I have switch from T5 to PL and have move them to 2 inch from the lights (my PL is nearly touching the water....) They seems quite happy and has attached themselve quite tightly to my LR, one of them seems to change from brown to blue!....unfortunately, the LR is my main peice....

    Now my worry is, if I switch to MH, they will be under too much light!!!

  9. Turn the lights off and let the fishes fall asleep before you do any rescaping. turn on a dim light if you need while you rescape. This will prevent causing any stress to the fishes while rescaping.

    didn't work for me...accidentally squash a fish while rescaping at night :cry: did not realize it until head count in the morning....guess it was sleeping....

  10. Hi jd,

    I remeber reading somewhere that a ich lifecycle is a couple of weeks..so if the fish in the main tank is already inflicted with ich, you will have to take out all the fishes and put them in the QT for a few weeks before putting them back....

    Any experiece on that? for me, there has not been much serious outbreak and it usually goes away after 1-2 days without doing anything so normally I don't treat them....

  11. I think you should invest in chiller rather then MH....reason is that if you spot 29 degree as your average tank temp, then what about the time where you are not looking? example, hot stuffy night? you temp might just reach 30-31 degree....should be BAD for corals....

    also since the hardiest corals does not really need a lot of light and they are still dying....then something else is really wrong....you should perhaps try to find out wat's wrong first before investing in a MH....

    in the posting of your tank spec you have also indicated that you are away in your hostel most of the time.....maybe that is also one of the reason????

  12. I'm running a 10gallon tank, 12 inches high.

    I'll be getting lights soon and the LFS here recommended me to go with fluorescent because of the concern that the water may heat up too fast with power compact.

    I was also told that because I'm using fluorescent, it will limit the type of corals I can have.

    What would you all recommend? The room temperature gets to 26 degrees maximum but most of the time it hovers at approximately 24 degrees or lower.

    My tank temperature now without lights is 24 degrees.

    i think with your room temp. getting a power compact might not be a problem....without my fan on and having 2x36W on a 2 footer, my tank temp at most raise to 3 degree above room, with fan able to keep it to room temp.....and the tube is very near the water (about 4 cm off the surface)...

    switch to chiller because the room temparature during the day can be as high as 30C.... :P

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