vincentwangz

Here are some macro pics of the corals in my tank. Recently acquired an Aussie gold torch thanks to the help of Dpyz and it's really fat! Mint Chocolate Chip Zoas Supernovas CB Rainbow infusions and Utter Chaos Hammer / Anchor garden Supersun corals Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep the opinions coming in. I like hearing from other experiences too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a thought.. have you guys ever thought of stocking your livestock as something to be done systematically? If you could redo the way you stocked up on fish and corals, how would you do it differently? I have tried to think of the best way to stock my tank and what to consider when adding something new. Here's what I found most reefers do: Add the most sensitive / finicky fish first I think this is related to how stressful the fish will feel. For those that notoriously have problems eating, like the Anthias, leopard wrasse and Achilles Tang, adding them first might help reduce the anxiety and competition they face when feeding. Add the smallest sized fish first Am sure many of you have the same experience. New fish get bullied by the fish already established in the tank. There's a belief going around that if the next fish you add is bigger or same sized than the previous one, chances of being bullied is lesser. I think it's still 50/50. Add fish with the most peaceful/timid temperament first Once they are established, they will feel more comfortable Swimming about. Then, when more competitive fish come in, they can hold their ground better. Again, this depends. Some fish just are very territorial. Add a few fish at the same time Since they are introduced at the same time, they have a fair share at claiming their territory. My only fear of this method is that there is higher chance of introducing disease. And since all are added at the same time, the chance of being infected is higher. What do you guys think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check ur calcium level. If it is normal but ur kh is high then it is likely the salt that has a high alkalinity level. Add RODI water to bring it down. Check also ur salinity lvl. Sometimes KH is high when there is nothing consuming it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fish sold and collected. Thanks for the interest! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Item reserved pending collection tmr morning Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I want to share about achieving stability in the hobby. There are many methods out there so I don't claim to be an expert. But I thought it would be good to share some priniciples I have learned in the last two years. 1. Starting well It was important to start with the right conditions; using 0 TDS water with a salt mix that I could trust helped make sure there is no bad chemistry in the water. Using rocks that are cured or pretreated also ensures nothing like phosphates or worse copper leaks out into the water. Cycling properly is also important. Biological filtration is the most important process in saltwater tanks and it can only happen when the beneficial bacteria is established properly. 2. Testing water In order to achieve stability I found that I had to test the water to figure out whether it was an issue of excess nutrients or a chemistry imbalance issue. Having reliable test kits helped me to tackle the issues correctly. Once stability is achieved I find the need to test less necessary. From time to time I only test Po4 and KH to make sure I'm on track. 3. Decide which system to follow There are many methods out there and I have read about success with doing this and doing that. However, I realise I cannot pick and choose whatever I read about just because it is working for someone else. I had to find something that worked for me in terms of time taken and success rate. After two tank crashes, I can safely say that the best method for me is regular water changes performed weekly, for a system that is supported by strong skimming, and an ATS. I also run a dosing pump that doses a two part solution to maintain my KH and Calcium uptake. I manually add 4 litres of DI water twice a week. That is all I do, and so far it has worked. 4. Stick to the plan Once you have found the stability in your tank, stick to it and don't unnecessarily make changes. For eg, if the plan was to do weekly water changes, don't skip it. Don't take shortcuts by adding things that promise to make your life easier. I once added a bag of Chemipure elite and for a while it made my water crystal clear. I believe it was so effective in stripping the water of nutrients that my water became unviable for corals and the tissue started coming off the skeleton. 5. Introduce changes with caution Sometimes you come across things that tell you it can help you reduce your nutrients, or deal with hair algae, or Cyanobacteria. When you want to try out a new product, introduce it slowly. Start off with a half dose and see if it upsets the balance in the tank. I came across the zeovit system and found that people have used it with much success. Before I delved into it, I did a lot of reading and browsed threads on forums to see what users share about the system. I'm still not fully confident yet and I have not started on SPS yet so I'm only using Cyanoclean at the moment to deal with Cyanobacteria at the moment. So there you have it, here's some things I've shared about my journey, I hope it helps. Happy Reefing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I want to share about achieving stability in the hobby. There are many methods out there so I don't claim to be an expert. But I thought it would be good to share some priniciples I have learned in the last two years. 1. Starting well It was important to start with the right conditions; using 0 TDS water with a salt mix that I could trust helped make sure there is no bad chemistry in the water. Using rocks that are cured or pretreated also ensures nothing like phosphates or worse copper leaks out into the water. Cycling properly is also important. Biological filtration is the most important process in saltwater tanks and it can only happen when the beneficial bacteria is established properly. 2. Testing water In order to achieve stability I found that I had to test the water to figure out whether it was an issue of excess nutrients or a chemistry imbalance issue. Having reliable test kits helped me to tackle the issues correctly. Once stability is achieved I find the need to test less necessary. From time to time I only test Po4 and KH to make sure I'm on track. 3. Decide which system to follow There are many methods out there and I have read about success with doing this and doing that. However, I realise I cannot pick and choose whatever I read about just because it is working for someone else. I had to find something that worked for me in terms of time taken and success rate. After two tank crashes, I can safely say that the best method for me is regular water changes performed weekly, for a system that is supported by strong skimming, and an ATS. I also run a dosing pump that doses a two part solution to maintain my KH and Calcium uptake. I manually add 4 litres of DI water twice a week. That is all I do, and so far it has worked. 4. Stick to the plan Once you have found the stability in your tank, stick to it and don't unnecessarily make changes. For eg, if the plan was to do weekly water changes, don't skip it. Don't take shortcuts by adding things that promise to make your life easier. I once added a bag of Chemipure elite and for a while it made my water crystal clear. I believe it was so effective in stripping the water of nutrients that my water became unviable for corals and the tissue started coming off the skeleton. 5. Introduce changes with caution Sometimes you come across things that tell you it can help you reduce your nutrients, or deal with hair algae, or Cyanobacteria. When you want to try out a new product, introduce it slowly. Start off with a half dose and see if it upsets the balance in the tank. I came across the zeovit system and found that people have used it with much success. Before I delved into it, I did a lot of reading and browsed threads on forums to see what users share about the system. I'm still not fully confident yet and I have not started on SPS yet so I'm only using Cyanoclean at the moment to deal with Cyanobacteria at the moment. So there you have it, here's some things I've shared about my journey, I hope it helps. I'll put this info in another thread too, for ease of reference for those about to start this exciting journey. Happy Reefing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much do you use each time? Replace only when the balls have totally dissolved? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Getting a 66a may just save more because it will kick in lesser times. Add an external temperature probe for it to measure the actual temperature in the display tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of course. Blue tangs and yellow tangs are a different species so they have higher chanced to co-exist peacefully. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At the same time, just an update on my wiring Organising project. Contacted Vincent from Aquarium Artist who did up my tank, in order to order a box that will help me keep my wires, while at the same time be able to continue putting things on top for water changes. I will then add an acrylic structure inside so as to organise my plugs on one platform and my power adapters and bundle my wires underneath it. He sent me a rough sketch of the box and the best thing I like about it is his reasonable pricing for carpentry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry for your loss.. I'm in the midst of measuring and making one from an aluminium profile with netting to be safe. It really does make things more troublesome but I just lost a Laboutei Wrasse and that is a really expensive lesson to learn about the need to install a cover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stable and healthy and been with me for 10 Mths. Eats anything from pellets to frozen. Selling for $120 as I bought it for $150. Text me at 87421834 to deal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fish collected. Pls close thread thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reserved Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Self collect at Punggol Way Text me at 87421834 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So today being the start of my vacation leave, I quickly enlisted the help of ever friendly and helpful reefer buddy @dpyz to bring me to Dama to buy acrylic, in order to start my project on relocation of my electrical wiring, for safety and neatness purpose. Previously my wires were all connected in the sump area, and my vortech Controllers were velcroed to my cabinet door on the inside. Unfortunately the glue gave way so I thought it best to relocate everything. Stay tuned for more updates as I develop ideas for this further. For now, here's part one where all the plugs that were inside my sump cabinet are all brought out and Organised on an acrylic board on top of my chiller cabinet. Tomorrow I will need to think about elevating the platform and then the wires can all go beneath the board instead. Good night! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback bro. I realise there is one likely reason. My KH is actually lower than I had expected and that is likely the reason corals are not growing especially LPS. I know they like Low KH but a KH of 5.9 is really too Low and came as a shock to me. I'm bringing it back up by slowly increasing my dosing regime using an auto doser. Hope it will improve growth this time! In the meantime, here's some pics I took this weekend! Carpenter's flasher wrasse and Bartlett's Anthias Love the dynamism in this pic. love these supernovas! My Rainbow infusion Zoas Are these called Sunkist Zoas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Front View of my tank Big Fish Small Fish Debelius Fairy Wrasse Leopard Wrasse Rosy Scaled Fairy Wrasse Interesting composition of the Naoko with the hammer garden Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a question for everyone. Generally my parameters are ok. My nutrients are under control and my Ca Kh and Mg are stable. What is the reason my corals are healthy but not multiplying? Be it Zoas or Super sun or torches and hammers, there is almost no growth although they are opening nicely and vibrant in colors. Is there something missing that needs to be added to Ensure growth? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3 of them belong to you bro. Hahaha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks bro! How's u doing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From coral farm ah? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Totally understand what u mean. Haha. For me, I lost a Laboutei's fairy wrasse due to being chased by the Naoko. It's really hard to determine which wrasse will go well with another due to difference in temperament of individual fish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk