Otaku Reefer
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Posts posted by Otaku Reefer
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Quick update
Just received my neo nitro and MB7. Big bottle hopefully can last a while. New train of thought on the ULNS system, instead of ULNS,i wan go towards ULPS (Ultra low Phosphate system). Seems like having slightly higher nitrates (5-10ppm) and lower phosphate (0.03-0.05) corals seems happier compared to ultra low nitrates ultra low phosphate. Hoping to dose nitrates to keep nitrates up and phosphate low, meantime adding MB7 to help with the process.
Trying my hands on NPS, whats a mix reef without NPS
Sun coral seems to be the easier NPS, just feed it pellets and scallops every 3-4 days. Hopefully can keep it alive. Keeping in the shaded part of my tank to fill the space 
This weekend saw the introduction of blackstorm to my tank, was keeping my finger crossed as my display has already a established wild false percula pair.
Didnt see any aggression(hope dun jinx myself), actually my establish pair seems afraid of the new panda. Probably first time seeing freaks of nature and they thought is new species 
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Keeping the distance
Minding their own business
Some zoas pic to brighten the rainy day
Thanks for reading, happy reefing!
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Probably due to feeding, last time i keep feeding every 3 days and keep splitting. now i cut back to once per week and stop splitting. If u stop feeding and still keep splitting den probably stress or other underlying issues. Did u check ur phosphate? Reef roids tend to increase ur phosphates.
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Well done!! Not easy to raise them to this size!!
Thank you bro, was actually quite surprise myself as this was their first clutch and my own inexperience in raising fries. Although lost some along the way, can say its an interesting and enjoyable journey
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Interesting, good job bro
Thank you for the kind words bro, just sharing the info/tips so others may benefit as well.
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Post hatch day 64 update
Change to bigger box to allow for more growth, this isobox design quite good, with many holes for gas exchange and prevent detritus accumulation in the box. Got it from supreme.
Prepping the food. Using TDO chromaboost, if u can buy the smallest size, but do take note smallest size mostly expired in LFS as nobody buys them. Do check the expiry date b4 purchase. Alternatively like me u can mesh it up to fine powder.
Feeding time
i use a coral feeder to feed so i can control the amount of food. “Pellet trained” hehe
Size comparison
Day 1, tiny winie fishies
Day64, grown bigger liaoz, i only feed once a day sometime lazy, once every two days. 
Interesting and fun side to the hobby! More reefers shld try this out, they are easy to breed and care for, just need a little bit of TLC. Stay safe and happy reefing!
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Happy Father’s day to all reefers!
Update of the tank
Preparing the ultimate coral food
Mix up all the big brand food and target feed hehe
1. Red sea AB+
2. FM min S
3. Reef roids
4. Goniopower
5. Brightwell coral amino
Trying this regime for a few weeks, scoly mouth swollen after makan, feeding response is good
Somehow feel my symphillia wilsoni (not 100% sure ID) color better and more fluffy flesh since i feed, maybe my imagination haha
Water change day, switch to “high tech gear” from dearest shop TB to do water change, can drain until very little water, last time gong gong go scoop by scoop waste time and water drip everywhere..this i tink reverse engr from sicce zero pump..damn ex lah, for water change not worth…
Baking time! its weird i never bake any cake b4 but go bake for reef tank lol…the things reefer do for the tank Following randy recipe 160g to 1 liter RODI and bake for 1 hr, trusted arm and hammer brand, really save a lot $$ for me as my tank makan alk fast. able to raise PH to 8.2, in future consider put kalkwasser to target holy grail of pH 8.3. Essentially 2 part dosing but baking drive the CO2 out of the bicarbonate to become carbonate. Remember to seal the left over in ziplock bag others will absorb moisture.
Thanks for reading and happy reefing!
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Received a few pms from kind bros asking if the banggai fries for sale, they currently not for sale yet as still small, i will sell them when they bigger and more stable. Thanks!
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looks like this?
u can google hydroids
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Quick update
Lost 4 of the banggai fries due to rookie mistake, was doing a transfer of the isolation box to do cleaning and i left them out of water for too long, was only about 10-20s, when put them back in water some fries immediately belly up and cant balance. GG after awhile, feed the dead fish to anemone, circle of life and nothing is wasted. Lesson learn as baby fries are too sensitive to leave out of water..rest of fries doing ok and grown bigger, now feeding to TDO readily, hope can continue. Wild Adult banggai ignore prepared food so really must train from young 
Going back to TLF Acropower to steady daily dose, can feel the colors better and corals more vibrant.
Thanks for reading. Happy reefing!
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Just installed a chaeto reactor. Hopefully my battle with diatoms can be won with this.
took out the ats a few weeks ago and since then having an algae bloom! the ats was just creating too much salt spray. having said that the ats was very effective. Despite not having skimming in the tank due to the deltec constantly overflowing for a few weeks, the algae growth was kept in check in the DT.
Updated shot of the tank after cleaning, the fish are all hiding !
Nice tank, not sure if u got try before, can put the skimmer on a stand (diy egg crate or bio media blocks) to raise the skimmer and the overflow should significantly reduced.
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Ur coral load is low so shld not eat so much alk/ca. i also using 2 part, about 20ml/day alk 8ml/Ca.
I would check the following
1. Check ur dosing pump if calibrated properly
2. Check ur measurement, i assume its auto measured by Trident? Probably get a hanna alk checker to verify
3. Are u dosing alk and ca together? they shld be spaced apart 10 mins. If dose together means Alk and Ca precipitated to cal carbonate, means got dose = no dose.
4. i dose based on consumption and not equal parts, the goal is maintain consistency of alk and ca. maybe u try split the dosing to finetune to the correct spot.
5. Lastly, i would switch brand of supplements to check ( but not likely is the issue)
You can watch this video from BRS. Seems to describe ur problem
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Oh missed this important point, its not safe to intro new fish as the parasites will continue to feed on other fish and reproduce. Unless the tang that died off is the only fish in tank, den good news for u, u just need to leave the tank fishless for 76 days and ich will die off without a host. For me i tried 1 month fishless and its ok. But 76 days is probably a safer bet. Hope it helps.
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sorry for your loss bro, water change not likely can help for parasites issues, unless ur tank has alot ammonia and its causing more stress to the fish.
1st thing to do is to correctly diagnose it is ich or other parasites like velvet before u can start treatment. You can google for pics to differentiate. There are few “proven” methods on the google u can look out for. 2nd question is whether your tank is reef or Fowler.
Some common methods i can think of which help combat or eliminate ich
1. Copper
2. Tank transfer method
3. Hypo-salinity
4. polyplab medic
5. UV
6. Enrich food
7. other medications like formalin.
If your tank is reef tank, method 1,3,7 does not apply as u cannot do that to reef tank as will kill corals and inverts. You will probably need a dedicated QT tank to administer treatment. My own experience is using QT tank and administer copper to treat and it does works. But dosage need to be careful and QT tank water quality can degrade fast if not cycled properly. For TTM (tank transfer method) also need 2 tanks to do constant transfer of fish to break the lifecycle of ich.
If your tank is reef tank and u dont have QT, u can try method 4,5,6. method 4 is using H2O2 (i tink) to kill the free floating ich parasites. alot local reefers had used and reported success but i didnt use before so cant comment too much. Method 5 also will work but u need spend $$ and get a good sized UV. For UV to work need to have precise flow rate vs wattage so u can kill the parasites effectively. But this can be costly as large UV is EX. The reason why u need large UV is u need higher contact time for UV to kill the parasites at a decent flow rate. u can opt for low flow rate but it wont be effective as u need to turn over the tank volume fast to kill the ich. Method 6 is easy, just feed more nutritious food like frozen mysis and enrich with selcon, u can add garlic to entice fish also. Some say garlic works but i tried it doesnt work for ich, at most is make the fish appetite better bah. With fish eating and less stress the natural slime coat will be better and more resistant to ich.
This is a huge topic by itself, u can do more reading up. I am by no means expert and above is just based on my own readings and learnings and maybe not 100% correct also so other seniors reefers can chime in. Hope got help u.
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I introduced a White blue tip Sebae Anemone in to my tank. It settled in well and found its spot in the tank. It is about 10cm in diameter when spread out. Yesterday I changed the rock scape around and this morning I have a fox that is not swimming well, a snail that's suicidal and a gobi fish that's being digested by the anemone. I fear the anemone had gone on a rampage. The other soft corals are not plumping up like they normally do. All tank measurements seek ok. Do I hope the anemone settles in again or do I just pass it on.
Dont think its related to the anemone, u mentioned u did some rescape? maybe this could have released some nasties or destabilize the tank. Maybe u should also check your parameters and make sure its in check. Unless the anemone is dying or accidentally went into the powerhead, it should not be releasing any toxins. U can probably run carbon if u suspect toxins. Just my 2 cents, hope it helps.
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OK; sure, I understand that the dosing rate will not be very consistent. Thanks for your help.
Incidentally, I read on the SeaChem website that their Reef Phytoplankton has a specific gravity between 1.0 to 1.1, but they don't say exactly what the salt content is. What I found more worrying is that it has a pH of 3.5 to 4.0.
Just note not to target feed, i saw on youtube before a guy target feed this seachem phyto and corals up lorry. He always broadcast feed no issue and think it was xmas or thanksgiving he wan to give corals a treat end up up lorry the coral.
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I'm looking at auto-dosing liquid preserved phytoplankton (like SeaChem Reef Phytoplankton or Brightwell Aquatics PhytoGreen). I've read that this is usually done with buying a dosing pump. However, I'm wondering if there's any reason why I can't just put the phytoplankton directly into my auto top off reservoir?
I realize that the phytoplankton might separate, so probably I would need a small pump in the auto top off to keep it mixed well. I also realize that it would be bad if bacteria started growing in my auto top off, feeding off the phytoplankton. But, as my reservoir has RO filtered water with 0 TDS and the phytoplankton has some preservatives, is it likely?
Probably will not recommend putting anything in ATO, these are dead phyto, sure there is preservatives but once u drop inside ATO the preservatives likely is very much diluted unlike being kept in the bottle. Most likely will foul ur ATO water. Just manual dose, i dont think even if u miss 1 or 2 feedings ur corals will not mind.
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Hi All, Thanks for replying. Yeah I got the pen type because I was lazy, can just poke into the water and test. I also have the optical refractometer. So I took the advice of all and I tried this.
While mixing a fresh batch of salt water for some new live stock. I tested the TDS and Salinity of my distilled water(Spritzer) and yielded TDS(1 ppm), Salinity(Digital - 1.000) and Salinity(Optical - 1.000)
My tank water yields Salinity(Digital - 1.023) today and Salinity(Optical - 1.026). Is this counted as a big difference?
i just found a reply from hanna regarding the differences between conductivity probe vs refractometer. So based on understanding, it concurs to what you and me
experienced. The refractometer might give inflated values compared to conductivity probe due to organics that contribute to the additional light bending but would not contribute to additional salinity. I also read that one cannot use the standard calibration meant to calibrate refractometer for salinity probe/pen calibration. My recommendation is just to stick to one, if u prefer refractometer just stick to it. For me, i more lazy prefer to use the pen haha. Maybe other experts can chime in.
From Hanna instruments reply
What is better for salinity?
When comparing conductivity to refractometery to measure salinity, the consensus among the scientific community favors conductivity. This is because there are non-conductive material which can impact the refractive index of seawater but not the actual salt concentration. For example, if we add sugar to artificial seawater, we will see that our salinity value will increase but we have not changed the concentration of salt in the water. If we measured the salinity of that sample with our HI98319 conductivity meter you’ll notice the value is largely unchanged. It is common to have inflated values with a refractometer due to the large number of materials which will affect the density of that water outside of the dissolved salt values. For example, organic waste, sugars, potential non-ionic contaminants or uneaten fish food can increase the values produced on a refractometer but this would be less likely to occur on a conductivity meter like the HI98319.
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Quick update
Just got the bill
Seems like got effect, not sure if due to other savings, comparing Jan, March to May (unestimated readings, May is month i switch to ext probe) seems got cost down. Mine is fixed rate so probably not due to retail price drop. Will monitor and update. Wah inefficient chiller makan so much electricity...been running like this for years.. morale of story, dont procrastinate and just do it!
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I got a digital refracts meter from the lfs
Not expert here, but seems digital salinity meter is using conductivity to measure, and refractometer is using light bending to see the refractive index and hence correlation to the salinity. therefore will have some delta between the measurement methods i think. I am using digital salinity pen to measure 1.025 but LFS water is always 1.021 -1.022 using my digital pen. I tot is my pen not calibrated properly but i use a swing arm to double check and it matches my pen so i didn’t think too much further and lifestock doesn’t seem to care. So i just stick to my pen reading and ensure stability instead of chasing numbers. Hope this helps.
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bundle tentatively reserved, thanks for support.
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Quick update after Zhng my chiller
After zhng my chiller with external probe, only on for 1 hr and off 2hrs. Meaning every 3 hr only on 1 time which is a big difference compared to using original hailea probe.
See the seneye tracking data, black arrow represents point of change to external probe. Before that, tank temperature is very stable but its like on once every 20mins zzz. After change the temperature fluactuate slightly more but its only like 1 deg +/- so dont think is harmful, shall monitor for longer to see if that translate to electricity savings.
Jialat give them anemone dun wan to host now disturb my torch. 人算不如天算.
Thanks for reading! Covid cases coming up, stay safe and happy reefing everyone!
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New bundle, priced to clear
1. FF digi -$5
2. leopard mushroom -$10
3. Green zoas -$10
4.Red monti -$5
5. Freaky nasty or mystic sunset, not sure ID, i not selling ex, hope dont mind the ID, just enjoy the coral -$10
Bundle @$30 plus FOC BTA
Collect bundle deal by tonite, i throw in 1 mini colt coral FOC. FCFS
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GSP and No ID zoas sold. Candy cane reserved for tonight collection.
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Believe this is mystic sunset Monti bro
Not sure, LFS sold to me as freaky nasty i check the google photo mystic sunset like purple/blue polyps ah. So probably not leh. Cheers.
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My Salty Oasis
in Members Tank & Specs
Posted
Oh its form of nitrate dosing, my main form of export is scrubber and fuge so seems to remove more nitrates compared to phosphate, so hopefully dose this can balance out and eventually keep phosphate low without GFO.