BarraCudaTM

Decomm sales. Take all for $150 Consist of cynarina, star polyps, zoos, mushrooms and plate.

1) Additional voltage is to power the LED drivers. If the power supply is not supplying at least 24V, the driver may not operate correctly. 2) If the power supply cannot cope with the load, either the power supply will blow, LEDs become dim or wouldnt light up at all. 3) The LED driver will only draw the required current to operate. I would suggest you look at the CREE XP-E for royal blues and XP-G/XP-E for white, they are much more efficient than SSC P4. You can also order them in arrays so that you have less soldering to do.

What are you trying to do with the aluminium?

IMO, CREE XR-E are almost obsolete. XP-E and XP-G are readily available now.

I did not use any lens for them. They indeed fine at 3ft distance.

Joe, just go for it. As long as you are using reputable LEDs like CREE, SSC or Luxeon and driving them at 3 watts .. should be no issues for SPS.

Dont think there are such function. The compressor is cooled by the refrigerant itself. If the superheat is properly adjusted, the compressor will cool adequately. The fan is only for cooling the condensing coil and does nothing for the compressor.

You can of course buy it if you can spend the $$$ but it not worthwhile to import something new just to get the latest technology. There are comparable units available locally.

My suggestion? dont bother. Whatever is latest now will be obsolete 6months later.

Looks real good .. XP-G white and XP-E blue, the best LEDs you can get right now.

For me, I see it from a different view. LED have too long lifespan(>10yrs) if operated at 350mA. I rather sacrifice the lifespan by 50(5yrs)% to gain that 50% improvement. Knowing that LED products improve rapidly, I do partial replacement of my LEDs. From that I gain much more energy efficiency. Imagine if you keep those luxeon I(1st gen solaris) running. 50lm@350mA compare to 139lm@350mA of CREE XP-G of today. You are actually losing out more by holding on to your old LEDS. We should not think or even expect current LEDs to last 10 years, at most 3 years. Anymore, you are losing $$$ and efficiency lose simply by not upgrading.

Yap .. 3 in series.

Yap, this is XP-E royal blue

yap

Finally received the XP-E, shipping was fast .. 10days from payment to arrival. These tiny babies are rated at min 500mW@350mA, when driven at 1000mA, it would yield 1200mW per LED. Thats 3600mW per board! How tiny? Take a look when compared to CREE XRE.

I dont know you have to ask them. Mine was shipped afew days ago.

Free shipping for over $100. Royal blues, you have to look at XP-E, which is what I have ordered.

Correct but the smaller it is, the worse for heat management.

Can get from www.cutter.com.au

This acro is 28" away from LED. Dated 22/04/2008 Same acro, same position. Dated 07/12/2009 Not fantastic growth but the color is much nicer. Pardon the botak spots, I frag it often.

I'm using luxeon K2, CREE XRE currently. I have ordered some CREE XP-E royal blues, XPG is currently available for white only.

Not really, what they have is a prototype and not commercially available. They announce news to boost their stock! It would quite some time like 1 year for the commercial production, another few months for higher bins and another few months for color LEDs. Its like buying computers, processing speed will keep on doubling. Today is current, yesterday is obsolete. If you keep waiting, you end up buying nothing

I have a thread in AF, my workmanship sucks so nothing compared to those DIY here. http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315348 You can see the brown acro color up and growth.

I did not use any lens on my tank. Tank is 2.5ft tall, LEDs are mounted at least 1ft from top of tank so effectively 3.5ft away from tank bottom. I'm seeing SPS growth even near tank bottom. Optics will cut emission by about 10-30% depending on the lens quality. Moreover, if you use separate white and blue LEDs, you need to overlap them carefully to avoid areas of white/blue. I prefer to keep things simple by avoiding all optics and use the full 130degrees for even color temperature.

FYI, 1W LEDs are obsolete technology. Previously, manufacturers manufacture 3W LEDs and grade those lower quality LEDs at 1W. Nowadays, production yields are higher and reputable manufacturers already phasing out 1W LEDs. IMO, wattage is not a good indication of quality or brightness of LED. You need to look at the brand, model and bin. Currently, I only recommend looking at CREE, SSC and Luxeons. Any other LEDs are not worth considering IMO. You cannot do that kind of comparison, optics can make alot of difference depending on design. Mount the same 50degrees lens on the 3W, you will definitely have brighter lights. Values are given just for simple calculation to illustrate the inverse square law, it does not represent anything.