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PulposTriste

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Posts posted by PulposTriste

  1. On 3/19/2021 at 10:00 AM, mhcraft said:

    Problems I have:

    1. my PH level has always been low even before I start cycling. Right now it is sitting at 7.25. I read a few articles and was told to ignore it for now until cycling finishes however it makes me wonder if it will impact the cycling. Do i need to worry and if so, how do i bump it up?

    Ph is fine for now, it gets important once you put corals and lifestock in.

     

     

    On 3/19/2021 at 10:00 AM, mhcraft said:

    2. After a week plus, the NH3 level is still about 0.11. During the week, i have since top up my MicroBacter 3 times (15 ml each) however my NH3 levels are still high. I do see my NH4 level increased to 92.8 ppb or 0.092 ppm however both readings have been stagnant for past few days

    You can try to increase the amount of food and add more bacteria (it's ok to overdose most bacteria product, just don't over do it lol)

    But really you just have to wait it out. Patience bro. 

     

     

    On 3/19/2021 at 10:00 AM, mhcraft said:

    Question:

    1. I have also did a lot reading about nitrates and there are conflicting views about removing / ensuring it is close to 0. Seeing that i am planning to have fishes & corals, do i need to ensure nitrates remains close to 0 and if so, besides weekly water change, what else can I do to improve it. I read about use Algae Caeto but it would mean i need to sacrifice some of my filter space in the fluval evo compartment. There are 3 compartments, one i am using for pump, another for skimmer and the middle one is for the stock filter

    Despite what people say, nitrate is not that big of an issue

    If anything it's bad if your tank is too clean, a bit of nitrate is what your coral needs for food. 

    What you really want to keep close to zero is phosphate/silicate. Use Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO) to keep the levels low.

    Try to avoid any aluminium based phosphate removers, they have a whitish appearance.

    As for cheato, in my opinion, not necessary for a tank that size.

    If you really want you can try macroalgae of the genus caulerpa. Those imo are more effective them cheato and can grow in your display, but depends on your aesthetic.

     

     

  2. Judging by your history, your tank's appearance and the fact that you're using a canister filter, I think it'll be very very wise to check your parameters again.

    Could be polyp bailout, which only happens when you really piss them off, might wanna up the water changes and reduce feeding/photoperiod.

    Also clean the canister, it's a nitrate factory. Best if you replace it imo.

    • Like 1
  3. If it's liverock, it looks like it could be bleached paly/zoas.

    15 hours ago, Maverick77 said:

    Is it time for 6 line wrasse? 

    IMG_20210326_214156.jpg

    Six line wrasse is only good at destroying all critters (pods/tube worms) and any fish he doesnt like, damn fierce one. 

  4. For me i just crank up the UV, Violet, Royal Blue and Blue up to max lol, then add white to my liking, works well for me. Green and Red not important, may cause algae growth too. If you want to be more specific, i can help you out with my PAR meter, just shoot me a PM

  5. Remaining zoas avail:

    H1- Horizon (1p) $20

    H2- Horizon (1p+baby) $20

    B1- Bowtie Blaster (4p) $75

    W1- Green Ice (5p) $20

    W2- Green Ice (4p) $20

    R1- Meltdown Rasta (3p) $30

    I1- Blue Ice (6p) $20

    M1~M9- Mohawk (2-3p) $10

    A1- Alien Antivenom (1p) $20

    S1- Sakura Sunrise (2p) $15

    20200213_181439_20200214083943670_20200214091956463_20200218162051356.thumb.jpg.8459322fc6222500980fe9ecd1d71a8a.jpg

    Also for sale is 2 extra frags of Purple Star Polyps

    20200218_162232.thumb.jpg.b7edc022bd57601e7cd67250311df082.jpg

    $5

    20200218_162227.thumb.jpg.0a10df0ca1f360b15e0368beab34d797.jpg

    $10

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