Fishfreak

Forget about the prizm - its not good enough for a tank the size you have.

I have my first ich outbreak this morning. Affected a regal blue tang. Would like to hear which medication you have good experience with. Thanks

Another possible cause: the Prizm skimmer is WAY WAY too small for a 4 2 2 ! I know its rated for up to 90G (I have one on my 20G nano) but that's just sales talk. The reaction chamber is tiny. On my 4 2 2 , I run a Kent Marine unit - rated for 300G, but nobody believes it of course. Upgrade the skimmer!

Some suggestions: - raise salinity to 1.023 - 1.025? - strive for 0 NO2? - ca of 50 is way too low - target 450ppm?

Visit this page: http://www.reefs.org/library/members/r_dur...urso_092202.htm Durso's used in the overflow chamber. If you're not drilling (BTW, why are you drilling .. if this is a custom tank, then the manufacturer will drill and fix things up - you just check that there's no leak), you will need an overflow box. It looks like this: http://www.marinedepot.com/a_of.asp?CartId= I think there's a thread in this forum about a DIY piece. Not sure where. Such a box is prone to lose siphon - when that happens .... get mops ready! To remedy that, some people attach an airline from the top of the overflow box to the venturi intake of a powerhead, so that air is sucked out. For details search: www.groups.google.com

Actually, don't you think ALL LFS have this at the back of their minds? They set up shop to make money for a living. When times are bad, businesses don't give two hoots about ethics. And they are not hobbyists (hobbyists are not in it for the money, you see) - they are basically business people out to make a living - just like those of us here in this forum who may be employees ... also making a living ... Just remember - its always "buyers beware" whatever you buy and whichever shop you buy from ....

quix, My tank's bottom drilled. I'm not sure why it should be at the back - maybe someone else can help. I had a durso standpipe made - it is a modified one that you can find in the durso webpage. The one with the top that can be rotated to adjust the amount of air. However, I found it very difficult to adjust to be in sync with the return pump. Also, it wasn't as quiet as I would or thought it should be. In the end, I removed it and stuck two straws in and its almost absoluate quiet now - no more grugling or toilet flushing sound. just my experience ..... BTW, why don;t you visit this site and see what this US reefer did to keep his overflow quiet:http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/maintank.html

Hey Rhun, You may not be ready for reefkeeping yet. Perhaps you may want to look up the reefkeeping links in the forums here ( and elsewhere too). Someone suggested your tank has not cycled (and it probably didn't). The hardware you have is not appropriate for reefkeeping - especially the canister filter. It will be a very efficient nitate factory. "Double tube light" sounds like normal output fluorescent - OK for fish - useless with corals. Why don't you read up more and examine your set up again before you spend anymore money on livestock? Lives are in your hands ....

Luohan LFS!

I've only two hermits. Their only crime is they killed my snails. So my advice is if you keep hermits (mine are blue-legged hermits), avoid snails.

Floating or sinking? I think the best guide is to see what type of fish you have. Some just won't go to the top and are happy at the substrate. Why not get a couple of hermits to take care of the food below?

I used one of those clear disposable plastic bowl, slice of most of it and attach it to the glass. Food that floats will be contained inside and won't slip into the overflow. Its great seeing all your fish gather together during meal times!!!

Thanks!

I tried to look up nature Aqyuarium in the telephone phone, but cannot find it. Are they still around?

I've seen nice shells at H2O (the LFS at Kembangan) don't know how much is it. if you want to holiday at the same time, sheels are also seen in Phuket ,Koh Samui and Bali

The RO/DI unit I refered to was selling in Taiwan. Its the cheapest unit under this brand ("chan" something - forgotten). They have more fancy ones. There are several companies in Taiwan manufacturing RO/DI units. I've also seen cheaper ones (around S$300 and usually without a pump) but I doubt the build quality. If you like US ones, check this out: www.airwaterice.com Seems popular in the US. Good price but the freight (int'l handling US$25, USPS freight US$115, UPS US$150) will wipe out the 'good price'.

limpc and hongqixian, Thanks for the ideas. I am now pursuing these non-electrical methods + the toilet flush idea.

Good point. I've had the three tangs living together for about 9 mths now. No problems at all. Perhaps the tank is big enough (for now at least) so I wil add the powder blue if I can find a small one. Anyone know where a small powder blue is available? I've decided to drop the bannerfish in case I strike Toto and decide to add corals later... thanks

Hi. Need feedback on possible new fish to a FOWLR tank. The tank is a 4 footer, about 320 litres. Currently contain live rock (with lots of button polyps), 1 yellow tang, 1 regal blue tang, 1 red sea sailfin tang, 1 foxface, 1 maroon clown and 2 hermit crabs, all living happily together. Light is Arcadia 60 watts NO (half daylight, half actinic). Thinking of adding a powder blue tang and a bannerfish. Questions: 1) I was advised that the powder blue may be very aggresive towards the other tangs. True? 2) The bannerfish may be difficult to feed commercial food and may dine on my button polyps. True? Appreciate any comments. thanks

Hi Platax, As I understand (and verified from information available in the net), if tap water is passed though a DI unit directly, the effectiveness of the resin will be reduced very very quickly. If very pure water (like those passed through a good RO membrane) is passed though a DI unit, the lifespan of the resin is definitely much longer. Similarly, if tap water is not filtered properly before passing through an RO membrane, expect to replace the expensive membrane very soon. The sale guy demonstrated the effectiveness of the RO/DI unit with a TDS meter. The TDS of the unfiltered water was 76ppm. The TDS of the filtered water at the end was just 2 ppm. That's about 98% purity, in line with good RO unit performance. I drank the water too - tastes good! The guy didn't have a phosphate test kit so I don't know how good the reading is.

Hi, Anyone out there have any experience with Taiwanese brand RO/DI units? I came across a 6-stage 50gph unit costing about S$500. They are also offering one set of filters (without the RO membrane) free. The RO membrane label claimed a size of just 0.001 micron. Could this be true? I am not aware of this size. Thanks Fishfreak

Ian Thanks for the link. No wonder a search I did revealed nothing. I was searching auto water topoff system .... It looks good. But I have a phobia about all these electrical stuff in the water. I would prefer a non-electricity driven one like the nurce or use a device like that found in toilet cistern. The float switch method will be my last choice. Right now I am using a simple drip. Still need to top up manually, but I make fewer trips from pail to sump. Unfortunately, it doesn't work for my 2 footer without a sump. Thanks

Hi! New member here. Does anyone know how to DIY auto water top-off system for 1) sump located in cabinet 2) 2 ft tank with no sump? Thanks in advance! Fishfreak