victorp

One healthy female Allard's Clownfish about 2" long for sale at SGD3.00. Self-collect in Clementi. Please bring plastic container.

ML also has some sun corals that are yellow, orange, yellow/orange and black. I got one yellow group, one yellow/orange group that also happens to have about 4 black polyps hitch-hiking on the rock. The polyps really extended out in high-flow area and after lights-out.

Power (W) measured in Watts is equal to Voltage (V) measured in Volts multiply by Current (I) measured in Ampere (A): W = V x I So with 230V x 3A = 690W, the FOX Controller can support 690W of Power. Of course, you need to factor in a safety margin, so anything below 600W should be no problem.

Erm...please note that I do not work for the company Wintech. Anyway, ZeRoC00l may be testing it - I am awaiting news from him.

I still have my brand new Lanzini Olympia 3 with me...

Sorry, but I need a M820. Anyway, someone has already offered me and I will be collecting it tomorrow. Thanks.

Looking for one unit of second-hand Rio Seio M820. It must come complete with its accessories. PM with your lowest offers.

Any price indication?

You have to state the total water volume capacity of your tank + sump in order to answer your power consumption question. It is highly possible that a overrated chiller saves you more money than one which is just right for your volume capacity as the former does need to turn on frequently and it cools down your water much faster. As for sound, the current batch of Resun Chillers run quite silent other than the clicking sound when the compressor comes on and off - like those make by your household refridgerator. Please note that CL650 does not mean consuming 650 W of power or CL450 consumes 450 W of power. The CL650 has a 1/4 hp compressor; 1 hp is equivalent to 746 W, so 1/4 hp is 186.5 W. Of course, you also need to factor in the power consumption of the chiller cooling fan and electronic circuit, but it will be nowhere near 650 W. By the way, this is not the right thread to post your question; you should post in the Marine Equipment/Additive thread. Can Moderator move this thread please?

What about this Hi/Lo Relay? The thermistor wire is definitely *not* salt-proof - I think must use those heat-shrinkable rubber tubing to seal it. I wonder if the "FOX" controller mentioned elsewhere cost less...

Let me clarify what I intend to use these 2 electronic circuits: the temperature sensor is to cut off the MH should the chiller fail and the water rises to a dangerous level, while the other counter is for stopping the return pump plus any non-controllable powerheads for a short while during feeding. Have you encountered at times you forgot to turn back on the equipment after feeding?

Thanks AlfaRomeo!

Found these 4-Digit Series Electronic Kits. Does anyone knows can they control switching on & off of mains (230VAC)? The Temperature Sensor with programmable limit has a thermistor; can it be replace or well-covered to prevent corrosion on the wires? Also, the Counter with programmable output is suitable for feeding time where you need to off your wavemaker and return pump especially plankton-based food.

When it comes to your favourite hobby, telling white lies to your partner are most common for most of us unless your partner shares the same hobby.

Hmmm...let me describe further. The 150W DE HQI bulb is cylindrical along its length except both the ends where they pinched/clamped flat during the manufacturing process; I am talking about the flat ends - should the flat ends be horizontal or vertical relative to the ground?

I borrowed this photograph from Cookiemunster's 250DE DIY Clip-on for illustration purpose (Cookie, I hope you don't mind). The flat ends can only be slotted one way (or two, if you rotate it by 180deg.). My sockets are those that you can rotate the bulb 360deg., so my question is should orient my HQI bulbs as shown in the 250DE?

Hmmm...and where is the nip? Is it the pinching of the glass where air was evacuated during the manufacturing process? If that is the case, the nip/pinch points are different for the inner tube and outer tube. Or are you referring to the flat pinch ends at both ends of the bulb where the socket contact points are?

...and I did a lot of BBQing and tidying up... ...and flubby was kind enough to cook barley water using the actual beans so that all of us who attended would not get sore throat from eating too much "heaty" food... ...and I think SpiderOne got dunk in the pool...

Just bought Arcadia 14k 150W DE HQI Bulb and the instructions are not clear to me how to orient the bulb...is the flat portion horizontal or vertical relative to the ground?

Click the link below for several doses of laughter: http://www.macboy.com/cartoons/mactoons/

Rocky's voice is good for plays, operas, and choir, unfortunately.

Thanks for replying RAV-65. I know about the sequence; what I would want to know if I can minimise the photoperiod of the MHs and supplement with the 4 x 36W PL lights while the MHs is off. 300W for 10 hours means 3kW per day or 90kW per month! Anyway, my effective depth of my tank is about 14".

Is that a Jebo or Turbo Queen? Jebo has a quad-thingy, those vane-like structures that look something like propellor.

No one?

Notice that you are using a Jebo Quad-thingy Protein Skimmer. Make sure the water level inside the chamber is about 1-2cm above the vane-like structure - you get better skimmate.