surfedelic

Some food for you to digest. Mazda 3 Pro - good looks, new design, power at certain RPM (take off very sluggish) Cons - heavy , drinks fuel (~10 km/lit, note a volvo S60 also consume 10km/lit ), expensive. Note - I think the car have less features compared to your cars from toyotas or nissan - need to find out more in this area. Altis Pros - price, interior design value for money, fuel economical (~13 km/lit), powerful becasue light body Cons - too common on the road, some interior part eg. audio system are OEM parts - looks cheapo. Nissan Pro - price reasonable, heavily armoured (very safe), Cons - too heavy (~10 km/lit) thus fuel economy is not there, too common. Honda Pro - power, average fuel economy. Cons - Price, ride is abit rough, interior design sucks, insurance wise expect to pay more. Among the 4 cars, Altis came in first in terms of power and fuel economy. Space wise not too bad. Sorry I did not include anything on Mit cars becasue i think I hear too many bad things about this brand. But Personally I think for 3 years for Mit is still very safe if you are really considering as the price is very reasonable. These are some of things I know i hope it helps you made a wise choice. Happy shopping

Agree that's why I illustrate 2 types of driver here. .. S class !! B** ! European cars is another ball game altogether lah ... hardly find any reliability if you buy a used car .....not sure about the rest

As far as I am concerned, try to avoid Mitsubishi if you can - it is just a matter of time when your gear box will break down - i m talking about 3 to 5 years not 10 years. I have 4 friends driving Mit cars. One got to change gear box after 5 years and he is a family man -- no cheonging type. He gave up and bought toyota after that. Another bought a new lancer (looks like proton face though) - drove for 2 years - gear box showing symptoms already. Yet another sold his car away. The last one advise me dont buy mitsu cars. These are my personal encounters - depend what you want though mit cars are quite sleek in design though. My 2 cents worth. rdgs

Read somewhere in the internet from the expert in a Clam farm that when choosing a clam, it is very very important to buy a clam with a rock attached to it. It was observed in the farm that clams which doesn't attached to any hard surface will not survive for very long. My 2 cents .. Happy reefing.

I am currently using Deltec epoxy - you can get it from reborn.

You can try sinter at Sim lim tower.

But if you have too high a level of nitrate - some macro will not take it well - they will also turn sexual. As for PO4, usu a certain small amount of PO4 is used by the macroalgae but not sufficient to use it solely for PO4 removal. On the other hand if PO4 reached zero - the macro aglae will turn sexual- not sure how true this is as I have get rid of the culture. Maybe somebody like to share their experiences. I believe there are other better alternative to Caulerpa racemosa like Chaetomorpha and Gracilaria. A few reefers are using Chaetomorpha - they are generally safer as they do not turn sexual so easily.

As far as I am concerned I find that growing macroaglae to get rid of PO4 is quite tough becasue of all the work required to maintain the algae. The growth can be super fast and sometimes you still have alot of PO4 in the water. And not to mention, the chores of prunning this macroaglae is really a pain. You will never know when they go sexual - they will happy happy die on you when you touch them or shift them. And unless you have a very big refugium - otherwise it is difficult to obtain the equilibrium state whereby your PO4 reach 0.01. I have tear down my macroalgae culture and start using Rowa where I could achieve below zero reading. If you are still keen on macroaglae, avoid caulerpa racemosa - use sea lettuce instead.

You can get from Art shop. I think there is one at bras basah. Just tell them you need a acrylic cutter. The concept is the same - you need to heat it up so that it can cut faster. but not so good for thicker acrylic. My 2 cent ...

If there is oil on the surface - I think it is still easier to maintain the surface then maintained the sand bed. Might be trying out this underflow concept.

Recently, there was a news circulating about a chiller caught fire - the brand is arctica chiller. And I also bought a pump recently (2 months back) for my cal reactor - and I got a shock when I saw the pump melted at the back. The brand is haliea. I am quite disappointed - thought I have a good bargain. I have changed back to eheim since. I agree about those ungrounded pins that should be grounded properly but sometimes it is the electrical within the device that we are using that we have no clue. And there is nothing much you can do. Not to mentioned brand like artica has been in the industry for some time now - hope that it is an isolated cases. The best is still to have a good insurance coverage. Who knows !! You might see NTUC insurance and AIA insurance at the top corner of the sgreefclub webpage in the future

The main purpose is to have the check valve on the return and also some piping work to ease my water changing task. If possible fully automated with solenoid for water changin -- that's my dream.

Read that you can actually buy a point cutter and heat it to red hot and you can cut the sheet pretty easily. I have not try it yet Let me know if you have success.

I am currently looking for check valves. Come across those ball type - and was quoted 20 bucks for one. Anybody using this ? and how reliable are they. It would be great if you could share with me where you got them and for how much. Thanks in advance.

INteresting idea !! But then how do you put in your sump ? unless you are using a very small sump.

Your sander skimmer definitely not sufficient as your tank is pretty hugh - I was using this same sanders skimmer for my 1 ft tank with a 2 ft sump in my previous setup. The skimming was perfect though but too much maintenace. I am not sure about the AZoo skimmer - you could try running 2 skimmer. Times have changed. Our water is no longer the same water before the SAR days. There are more chemicals like more chloramine and chlorine content etc. I remembered my brother whom used to have a fresh water tank - witness all livestock went up to heaven after a water change !! If you could afford - it is always good to have a RO unit as the Water tank in our flat always contains bird shit and sometimes dead rats .... thus introducing nitrates and PO4 or you could choose the economical way by purchasing DI cartridges from some LFS - quite expensive in the long run. Even some of the reefers are using some filtration unit from DIY shop - I think it is Berita or something like that.... cheaper option. Or you could purchase some RO unit from ebay - those are pretty reliable as I have bought one for 600 ++ for a 5 stage RO system with about 3 years supplies of cartridges. Hope this helps. Happy reefing

Your ring finger will always be longer than your index finger as long as you are a guy. It is actually the level of testerone. By right if a person has a ring finger much longer than the index finger - this person can be a very good atheletic Meaning - You can tell whether a person runs faster than another person just by looking at the 2 fingers - it is biological fact not sure in real life. So if a woman has a ring finger longer than the index finger then she is also tomboy - meaning flat chested.....

I am also using 250W DE BLV 10K - find it too yellowish. Heard that AC 250 W 14K has some inventory problem even in the US. Let me know if you have any lobang on AC 250W. I am keen on getting it also, not in a hurry though.

I used to have pistol shrimp - claw is one big and one small. The pistol shrimp will carry those small pieces of gravel underneath rock and throws them out and you will normally see a pile of small rocks beside as if they are building a underground bungalow whereas the mantis will dig underneath without throwing any rocks out, as far as I know - used to have mantis shrimp in my tank. Hopes that helps to differentiate.

why waste your money - just buy 1 bottle of cheap garlic capsule from pharmacy and just squeeze the juice out after pricking it.

I used to have a nano 5 gallon tank I used 2 x 13 watt (white and blue combo compact lamp) The result is very good. But I have a 15 gallon sump at the back. You can base on 4 to 5 watt /gallon. In fact my mushroom grow very well when I have the small tank and the button button polyp which I have would grow from 1 button to 6 button polyp in about a week's time. It kept me worrying after seeing the result whether it will overgrow. Currently I am using MH but I still don't see such speed in the growth. I advise dont buy any bubble coral cause they can really stretch into tentacles in the night - and you will have a war zone unless you place your coral far apart which is not likely. Go with suncoral, mushroom , star polyp, finger. I think shouldn't be a problem.

I can see that your tank has very little coraline aglae, though it is not very crowded . How do you slow down the coraline growth ? Or am i color blind

Just watch it yesterday. I think the show is touching to the extent of not being pushy. The non christian may not understand the show completely I guess. But many may be curious at why Jesus have to suffer so badly to die for the sins. I think the chinese subtitles is great. Even the next door ah sor knows who Jeusu is and if they read chinese - they can watch the show

They eat sponges, so dont keep them together.

3 - 5 drps/ sec is slow. Mime is a constant flow. You might want to check your input pressure. I used to have the same problem.