Cookiemunster

Roidan bro the only thing bigger than your tank is your posts. hahaha Great looking tank. I must drop by to visit you one day. By the way, one way to reduce phosphate in the water is to dose Kalk with your top up. Ala my TUBBY with KALKREACTOR combo. hehehe My phosphates are zero. They precipitate due to constant kalk dosing of reefez kalk. I never use any rhowaphos although I do have a pack to standby in case of emergencies. But I find dosing kalk is still cheaper than using rhowa. I dun have diatom or cyano problems.

Wah biangz.....can you tell me which bank you own? Cos you seem to have limitless cash. Do you need a god son?

Hi bro.....you got pm

You can get the bottles from IKEA. But I got mine at a cheaper place for only $1.50 each. Setchi Stick can be purchased from Reborn. And as AT mentioned. Kindly read up about the pinned threads on culturing. However, I did succeed with DT. In fact my cultures are from DT. The new type with mixed cultures. I am culturing nannochloropsis. Its sediments are a golden brown and suspension is deep green. Yup the bubbling is to have some movement in the water and to provide aeration.

Wow very very nice. It looks really good. And the scaping is well done too. Maximum use of space. I'm a clam lover too. Great work!

Price reduced to $900. Only 2 months old with warranty. PM me if interested. Rust and scratch free. In perfect working condition.

Please take note that grounding probes are not ultimate voltage and current leakage absorber solutions. Depending on where you place the probe and where the source of leak is, you could be electrocuted still....ie if you place hand between the leak and probe. It will always take the shortest path.

I'll leave it to those who have tried this to comment.

guys, Cool down. Hobbyists have been running marine or fresh water tanks without all the fanciful gadgets for many many many years already. And they still are able to keep very excellent setups....some even better than the ones with all the gadgets. When I developed the TUBBY auto top up system for sale, it was built with safety and convenience and simplicity in mind. I did the research and found the best solution is to use DC. Using AC is so much easier and simpler.....I could have sold the TUBBY at half the price it is now. But I am not ready to compromise some reefer's life for the sake of easy sales. TUBBY is built with DC flowing through the float switches and a FUSE in case any shortcircuit occurs in your pump even. Safety is utmost in my mind. I work in the shipyard so perhaps I tend to be extra safe. Auto top ups are just to make life simpler. But I feel it should not be at the compromise of increased risks. In this DIY section, we provide reefers who are familiar with DIY solutions to building for themselves DIYed copies of commercial units to save money. But when we provide these solutions, we also have a responsibility to ensure it is safe even for those who are not technically experienced. And as long as it deals with voltage, we must think many times through before saying things like "It looks safe to me" "I've been using it for years" etc etc. Float switches can be purchased for less than $20 at SIM LIM TOWER basement. A titanium probe can also be built cheaply for less than $20 using titanium bicycle spokes connected to earth. The fact is if its DIY, it will definitely be cheaper. But the question is, are you willing to save the money to handle the risks involved? For people with electrical knowledge such as Barracuda, weileong, benz etc, such projects are easy.....and hence the risks involved are manageable and necessary precautions will be taken because they know what to look out for. However in our postings in a forum where the public (which includes children, teenages, adults) can read it, I have to stress the responsibility we need to remind ourselves whether we are playing the Devil and tempting the 'innocent' with a dangling carrot? In short, we know very well the risks involved. When we read about some project related to electricity, we may find it ridiculously simple. But our comments have a heavy impact on those who are not so technically inclined. So the point is, be responsible and think thoroughly through before making comments which simplify and make dangerous projects seem trivial and extremely safe. Unless one is prepared to be responsible for any accidents that can happen. Even if one is not made to pay for it, I am very sure one would feel bad for having encouraged it. Cheers

Bro the TS12 is the single controller with 6001. 12000L/hr flow rate. Its super ex. About $600 But you can just get the lower end one. The 7000L/hr without controller. Its only $190. Can buy from either PR or Eaquanature.

AT that was hitting below the belt. hahahaha

Tuan your tank is beautiful! Makes me wish I had more floor space and cooler climates here.

sure bro....once I find out I'll let you know too.

wah biangz. To the guy that aeroplane Orgasbt: I hope you realised you cost him alot. He is only making peanuts. You can see how much by comparing Victron price + special UV glass + delivery. Do the maths. Orgasbt is a nice guy....I really hope people who order stuff do not cancel irresponsibly. Just my 2cents.

Hi bro, pls dun misunderstand. I am not trying to create trouble or pull down your sales. I am just very concerned about the electrical safety. In fact I even helped you by suggesting other ways of using the float switch you are selling. Power heads, pumps are all designed with professional molding companies with QA checks and electrical insulation protection. They are companies who can be sued in any incident of accidental faulty pumps which cause death or injury. So they have a tremendous responsibility to ensure their pumps do not leak underwater in marine usage. Because they can be sued, they know their responsibility and take proper precautions. However even if you use all the safe parts used in a safe pump, the fact that its DIYed reduces the safety factor by ten fold. A safe approved electrical component is only safe in the hands of a qualified person who at least has some strong electrical foundation. In unskilled hands, any safe product is still unsafe. And it is made worse if the design is high risk, which in this case I highlighted. Anyway, its up to the individual. I have spoken out simply because you posted this in the DIY section. If it were your own sponsored section, I would not comment, and would keep my mouth shut. I'm sorry but I dun believe in using a grounding probe to solve a dangerous design. This is a design discussion and not directed at you so I hope you don't take it personally. Cheers

Hey Octopus....be a gentleman. Why are you taking it so badly? I said its not safe for AC voltage to flow direct through the float switch for use in an aquarium tank. I added on to say that its best to use a DC voltage and relays in your design. By saying this, I provided you with a solution to still be able to better use your float switch. Since you handle things this way, I bet you wanna be responsible for any accidents caused by any reefer without electrical knowledge who follows your design? Let me ask you is it worth the money earned by risking someone else's life? There could be and probably are many school kids here who will just try it out. I never condemned the float switch. I just said your design is not safe. Do you really need your supplier to tell you if your design is safe or not? Will the electrical experts here kindly comment too? Barracuda? Dr Evil? thanks

Hi bro, I really dun think TUNZE can be overwhelming. Get the smallest model. I am using the T12 in my 4 ft and I find it too weak. Other altenatives would be to use powerheads but these are dangerous cos they tend to suck up anemones, fishes etc....unless protected with netting at the inlet. These also use more watts and generate more heat. And the angle of wave spread is very directional....not as wide as TUNZE. Cheers

Octopus bro, no offense but your design is extremely dangerous. And the float switch is not of sufficient high grade to handle a direct AC 220V through it in the water...ie it is not built with enough insulation to prevent current or voltage leaks. A float switch which can safely be used in this way are those in the region of $50 and above and made of ABS plastic with total wire insulation built into the float switch. And even then, the joins to the float switch wire needs to be carefully waterproofed and completely insulated. Using direct LIVE voltage is no joke.....please make sure its safe. Its not worth risking lives to save some money. You may think its only neutral in the float switch but if you are using 2 pin plug, when you swap the plug the other way, it becomes live! And even when it is neutral through the float switch, when it closes (turns on) LIVE flows through it. I strongly recommend you change your wiring diagram to incorporate a DC source with relay through the float switch. PS. Hope you don't get offended by my remarks. But it is purely out of safety concerns. Cheers

hahaha...well I was planning for this for some time anyway....got bigger project on mind. Anyway for those who don't have chillers, this is a great time to get one with so many on sale now. Hot season is coming soon and at that time no one will be selling second hand chillers anymore.

I'm selling my Reef Relief stated 1/2Hp chiller. Used for 2 months only. Very new and good condition. Still under warranty by Dr Chill. Intend to upgrade. Asking $1000. Pls PM me. Sincere buyers only. Unreasonable offers will be ignored. Thank you.

James72, I can understand your eagerness to keep corals which visually appeal to you. As I have been there before too. However, when I started out, I didn't have anyone to guide me or teach me which is easier to keep or what requirements each coral had. I learnt it the hard way and was very disappointed each time any coral died. I only learnt of this forum in my eagerness to search for more information. Now with this forum, I feel this kind of wastage and spending is not necessary especially when there are so many experienced reefers here who willingly share info and guidance. Perhaps you should reconsider very very carefully. In fact better understanding of the hobby and knowing the demands and requirements of each coral makes this hobby much more interesting. And I feel nothing makes it more satisfying than to watch your corals in the the small world you created not only survive but thrive and flourish. On the contrary, if we never take the time to learn properly and setup the proper requirements to keep corals, we kill our own interest because with every death, we can loose interest and find it unmeaningful. It is also unrewarding and frustrating. Not to mention a total waste of money. It is wise to start with SPS frags before buying entire colonies....as is the way many going towards SPS do too. But your tank is simply not stable yet and many here advise that you be a little more patient before wasting your money and worse killing unnecessary lifestock. The folks here advise and comment with good intention. And especially the advise given by AT. He is one reefer here you can certainly trust with his advice. If you were so eager, why not pm AT for personal advise and ask him to help you setup a proper tank and guide you when to start towards the path of keeping SPS and other demanding corals. I am pretty sure he will not hesitate to guide you or refer you to the right direction.

sorry to hear about it bro. I think its sick. Probably internal parasites. Live food such as large brine shrimp may coax it to eat or at least keep his strength up. You can get large brine shrimp from Pet mart or Yishun fish shop or Clementi fish shop. Good luck.

wait a minute....pls note this is not a DIY for sale. I merely post here my idea and method of a cheapo clip on MH. Orgasbt sells the MH set with UV glass and control box and delivers to you. Victron does not have the UV glass. And you still have to do your own wiring.