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Purity-On-Tap RO/DI Unit


damsel-in-distress
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I've just purchased a UK-manufactured Purity-On-Tap Ultra 1000 RO/DI unit with purified output of 9-50L/day per 24 hour period at average mains pressures. It is a 2-stage 10" modular system with a "piggy-back" membrane mounting.

See http://www.purityontap.com/start.html for further details.

Is there any reefer out there who has used this brand before and can they share their experience with DIY the installation of the unit? All constructive comments appreciated.

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Hi,

In general, the connection should follow the following sequence: -

1) water supply goes to the input of the sediment filter canister

2) output of sediment filter canister goes to carbon filter canister

3) output of carbon filter canister goes to membrane filter canister

4) output of membrane filter canister goes to deionizer canister

5) output of deionizer canister is your purified RO water.

The membrane filter is very expensive and is easily damaged by chlorine in the tap water. You must therefore ensure that the water passes through the carbon before it reaches the membrane filter.

Hope this help. Best of luck.

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Hi,

Forgot to add.

Tape the connectors with teflon tape (white tape) before connecting.

They tend to leak without the tape.

It will take awhile the membrane to "season".

Suggest you dont use the initial RO water for your tank. Use it for something else like washing the floor. It may contain undesirable stuff.

Use the RO water only after the membrane is seasoned.

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Solo,

BTW, do you have a similar unit? The shop in the UK where I bought it from mentioned that the input water has to be ON 24hrs otherwise the filters will begin to retain bacteria and spoil ... Can you confirm this is the case with all RO units? I only need 100L per fortnight (which I can get within 4days continuous main running at 9-30L/day output), it does seems a waste to keep the water mains on. Care to comment?

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Hi,

I have a Kent Marine model.

Not sure about the bacteria thing. Maybe true since the chlorine has been removed. Not a concern I guess as long as we're not drinking it. As for the fishes, don't know leh.

I only run my RO when I need to make salt water or just keep some as fresh top up water. In between when I have no need for it I will just run it for a minute or 2 every alternate day to prevent the membrane from drying out.

The thing with RO is that the purified water is only a small fraction compared to the "dirty" water (which I collect for other washings) it discharges.

Take note of the following: -

When operating the unit for the 1st time, remove the deionizer cartridge & store it in an air tight container to prevent the resin from drying out. Then run and discard the 1st 10 - 12 gallons of the product water. This is to flush the membrane of its protective fluid. Quite siong! You may need to run it continuously for abt 10 days before the membrane is completely hydrated, at which point, you will get the max. output of RO water. After that reinstall the deionizer cartridge and your unit is ready.

Once hydrated, NEVER LET THE MEMBRANE DRY OUT. When it dries, it is no longer able to purify the water and would need to be replaced. You may keep it wet by running it for 1 to 2 minutes every alternate day or keep the output tubing above the membrane housing to prevent draining. If the unit is not used for more than a month, remove the membrane & store it in a plastic, air tight bag with 2 tablespoons of RO water and placed it in a refrigerator to prolong its life span. DO NOT let the membrane freeze though.

Good luck

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