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Overhead Filter


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IMO, OHF is more efficient (in converting ammonia to nitrite to nitrate) than canister. It's a mini wet/dry filter, this is beneficial cos there's plenty of oxygen in the wet/dry zone for the oxygen demanding bacteria.

I'm not repeating the problems about canister. There's many other threads on that.

The main problem in OHF is limited space to hold the media.

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Guys,

actually I would like to hear from you guys why OHF is not suitable for marine? :rolleyes:

I am using a OHF which I use only as a mechanical filtration for my 2 ft.

IMHO, if space is limited, no sump tank, and want to save money from buying canistors, OHF is good enough.

OHF is only not good if you intend to use it as a trickle (wet dry) filter. Which basically means its going to be a nitrate factory. But the same thing can be said of a canistor. Placing all the bags of carbon or bio balls or ceramic rings create the same effect, ie a nitrate factory in a canistor. But then again any kind of trickle filter is not the best option in the long run.

However if you only use it as what Spicyball has said...filled with sponge only. Then it becomes a purely mechanical filter which is cheap and easily accessed for change of sponges (when it gets too dirty).

For filtration purposes, I think OHF is good for 2ft. But for 3ft and above, a sump tank with cotton/sponge compartment is the best.

I really do not recommend canistors in any way for any tank size as it is too costly and too good a place to become a nitrate factory. Unless you wash it regularly (ie weekly). This then brings up the point that it is troublesome to maintain.

Spicyball if you want to place active carbon (chemipure) or phosphate removal (rhowaphos) it would be best to place it in a mesh bag into the tray of the OHF. But make sure you don't stuff it in till it floods. ;)

To add on, a mechanical (cotton/sponge) filtration is important to aid in the removal (nutrient export) of ditritus.

Biological filtration is the most important. And that is achieved via sufficient live rocks, proper cycling, and a DSB of >4 inch.

Cheers

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ok im going to ask this question...... why is overhead not recommended. i really liken it to a mini sump that is above your tank instead of below . same principles. the difference is just overflow return and pump to sump container. isnt it better than a canister?? which is extremely inversatile.

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IMO, OHF is more efficient (in converting ammonia to nitrite to nitrate) than canister. It's a mini wet/dry filter, this is beneficial cos there's plenty of oxygen in the wet/dry zone for the oxygen demanding bacteria.

I'm not repeating the problems about canister. There's many other threads on that.

The main problem in OHF is limited space to hold the media.

As you have mentioned : 'The main problem in OHF is limited space to hold the media.'

So where is the beneficial bacteria supposed to grow?

However, i do agree that OHF can be very effcient in breaking down ammonia, provided you find one with enough space for sufficient filter media i.e. multi level types :)

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Wah...debatable topic yah..anyway i just bought bwilly's canister filter...

I would not comment on the efficiency of OHF cause i am still a newbie in this..but in terms of space consideration...my OHF created alot of problem for me as it took up alot of space on the top of my tank...limiting the space i can have for my skimmer and lights...now with OHF...i can only put a single tube PL lights...

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i using OHF and i think it better than carnister... i put alot of ceramic rings inside then sponge above.. then i put layer of eheim subsrate one layer.. then sponge again then i put chemipure.. then sponge on top...

i modify my ohf box so more water could be flowed in and the return to the tank i put one more tube so it could make a bit of wave to my leather..

dun forget to attach a surface skimmer..

and my OFH not using those surbmergible pump its the top one so solves my heat problem..

i agree it acts like a mini wet and dry

.. about space..

wat more u wanna put

'' a layer of coral chips'' unless u wanna make a nitrate factory..

dun forget to use a surface skimmer to.. thats the most important .. in some ways.. i can say it could be use for small tanks.. lets say 15 to 20 gallon tank only..

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Hi cookiemunster and metals99, like to hear your advice (and any other good ones) on my OHF ...

Mine is a 3ft tank. Due to space constraint, I have to use OHF (m still confused abt the difference between dry/wet filter and trickle filter and and OHF, but tis is not the issue here). I have a hang-on Prizim skimmer and I hang my lights (will be "upgrading" to T5 lights soon).

I have 4 layers x 3 filter boxes ... on the lowest layer, I put Angel Bio-rings. The next layer contains coral-chips (some of you may say:"NITRATE FACTORY!!" Is tis really true? Never mind, pls read on). Then the second layer from the top contains sponge with polyfilter, phosguard, Eheim substract and chemipure. The topmost layer is of course sponges, with a piece of polyfilter.

Questions go here:

1) Any better advice on how I should arrange the stuff?

2) Is the layer with coral chips really a nitrate factory? If yes, wat should I do? (Re-iterate: no place to start a refugium :( )

3) Can I place phosguard (neatly packed in a net) into the tank, so that it works more efficiently? I am trying hard to bring down the phosphate level. I heard that rowaphos is a better choice (true?) but I thought of trying the phosguard first (since I bought them already).

:thanks::peace:

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