Jump to content

AQUATRONICA Aquarium Controller


jervismun
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • SRC Member

Alot of useful info here my installation still is in the planning stage as I need to re-wire the existing cabling to accommodate the unit. ;)

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 365
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • SRC Member
Alot of useful info here my installation still is in the planning stage as I need to re-wire the existing cabling to accommodate the unit. ;)

Re-wiring? U mean to reorganize your existing cable or u did sm modification to the controller cables?

I may try to cut the USB cable to a shorter length and re-solder it back cause I find it too long and difficult to manage! Meanwhile, I'm using those retracable USB cable to minimize the cable length! :)

Faster setup leh, can't wait to see your setup! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Hopefully can install the system next weekend and meanwhile I am exploring the feasibility of using PVC

Plan to visit Sim Lim this weekend to source for shorter or customized USB cables as well as appropriate housing for the interfaces.

In addition also has to re-wire present power cabling, etc.

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Maybe the sensor is not that highly sensitive to minor salinity chg! After using the Desinty probe, I oso notice that my salinty is way too high compare to my hydrometer which have a diff of abt 0.002g/l.

Will need to schedule for a water chg this weekend! Bro Jevis, may need to borrow your refractometer to double chk on my Desinty probe as till now, I'm still quite doubtful abt the reading! :unsure:

Yes .. I dipped the entire probe into the bottle also ..

1st time calibration when I got it was 50% reading because I didn't notice the hole .. found out during the 2nd calibration ..

The reading went back to normal before I left for work today <_<

It's reading perpetually 0.0015 higher than my refractometer ..

And mine also don't fluctuate too .. a steady number .. except for that weird spike (started yesternight and lasted until today)

Hey just for reference .. was your probe anywhere near any pumps?? just maybe.. the pumps could be interfering with the readings ..

Got another experiment later .. just to test my theory :upsidedown:

Thanks for the info on the USB .. will go to get those from Sim Lim.. right now the space between the tank and the wall is a mess of wires from the ATI and the controller ..

aquatronica7na.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are just some of the teething problems we face whenever we play with new products... basically we are putting the product to test along the way... for me, my Density probe is showing 0.001 higher than my Refractometer. That's fine with me coz it's a matter of 1.024 or 1.025 which are both optimum and acceptable level.

However... there could be a lot of other reasons affecting the readings... yes being too close to some magnetic devices (such as some pumps) may affect the readings... do share with us your findings :)

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
Hopefully can install the system next weekend and meanwhile I am exploring the feasibility of using PVC

Plan to visit Sim Lim this weekend to source for shorter or customized USB cables as well as appropriate housing for the interfaces.

In addition also has to re-wire present power cabling, etc.

I tried sourcing for customize USB cable last wkend but seems like it's not common in the mkt! Pls keep us update if u manage to source for shorter USB cable!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yipee! A reply from Aquatronica :)

Hi Jervis

Thanks a lot for your pictures!!

We'll provide as soon as possible to publish them on our web site.

Can we write on your web page also your e-mail address (in this way, who'd like to contact your wil reach you easily)?

Bye

Cristina Marconi

Aquatronica Marketing dept.

via dell'Industria 20

42025 - Cavriago - Italy

ph. +39 0522 494403

fax. +39 0522 494410

www.aquatronica.com

marketing@aquatronica.com

post-14-1151931516.jpg

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

I think where the probes are placed affects the readings eg an area having more water movement will register a different reading than an area with slow water movement.

That is the reason why all probes are calibrated in a cup or container of its respective calibration solution.

My 2 cts. ;)

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
I think where the probes are placed affects the readings eg an area having more water movement will register a different reading than an area with slow water movement.

That is the reason why all probes are calibrated in a cup or container of its respective calibration solution.

My 2 cts. ;)

So is it advisable to place the probe near the last compartment of the sump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

So is it advisable to place the probe near the last compartment of the sump?

Just curious, last compartment is usually where our return pumps are.. Isn't water flow in that area quite strong too? :paiseh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well... I am no expert... but it kinda makes sense actually... too strong flow will affect readings... oh my probes are placed in a low flow area in my IOS... could that be the reason for its stability? Worth trying :)

Or maybe read the manual... to be honest, I have not finish reading :pinch:

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My temperature graph of the day... amazing stuff... for once I can count how many times my Teco RA240 kicks in a single day... this is the power of information:

1) My chiller kicks in 5 times a day (actually not to bad huh?)

2) At night (no light), the chiller takes around 1 1/2 hours to bring down 1.5ºC ;)

3) During intense lighting, the chiller takes a whopping 2 1/2 hours to bring down 1.5ºC :(

Extra info:

• Teco RA240 running w/ Aquabee 3000

• 225W

• Temp: 27ºC – 28.5ºC

• Tower fan blowing towards the tank/chiller all day except at night.

So with this information... you guys think I should upgrade my chiller? ;)

post-14-1151941684.jpg

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
My temperature graph of the day... amazing stuff... for once I can count how many times my Teco RA240 kicks in a single day... this is the power of information:

1) My chiller kicks in 5 times a day (actually not to bad huh?)

2) At night (no light), the chiller takes around 1 1/2 hours to bring down 1.5ºC ;)

3) During intense lighting, the chiller takes a whopping 2 1/2 hours to bring down 1.5ºC :(

Extra info:

• Teco RA240 running w/ Aquabee 3000

• 225W

• Temp: 27ºC – 28.5ºC

• Tower fan blowing towards the tank/chiller all day except at night.

So with this information... you guys think I should upgrade my chiller? ;)

Time to upgrade the chiller ... :P

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

So is it advisable to place the probe near the last compartment of the sump?

I think you have to locate which location is having the lowest flow as we don't identical sump.

IMHO, it is still pssible that the certain area in the last compartment is having the lowest flow eg just above the return pump provided that there is at least 3" of water clearance.

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
IMHO, it is still pssible that the certain area in the last compartment is having the lowest flow eg just above the return pump provided that there is at least 3" of water clearance.

Yap! I think for my case, the last compartment where the return pump is place shd hv the lowest flow as compare to the middle section! Oni thing I'm not sure is when my Redox reading is so low: ard 200mv! :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
My temperature graph of the day... amazing stuff... for once I can count how many times my Teco RA240 kicks in a single day... this is the power of information:

1) My chiller kicks in 5 times a day (actually not to bad huh?)

2) At night (no light), the chiller takes around 1 1/2 hours to bring down 1.5ºC ;)

3) During intense lighting, the chiller takes a whopping 2 1/2 hours to bring down 1.5ºC :(

Extra info:

• Teco RA240 running w/ Aquabee 3000

• 225W

• Temp: 27ºC – 28.5ºC

• Tower fan blowing towards the tank/chiller all day except at night.

So with this information... you guys think I should upgrade my chiller? ;)

So you set your Temp diff to be 1.5 deg through out the whole day? I thought u set it to 1.5 deg diff during light on and 1 deg diff during nite time?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you set your Temp diff to be 1.5 deg through out the whole day? I thought u set it to 1.5 deg diff during light on and 1 deg diff during nite time?

Yupe 1.5ºC throughout the day... don't see much of a difference except chillers kicking more often if I set 1ºC for night time... so probably instead of 5 times, the chiller will kicks in 6 times a day... so in the end may consume more energy.

But again, I am running a underpower chiller... things will improve (and able to achieve 26ºC) once I save up enough for my chiller upgrade :)

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Had read through the manual but seems like it's not possible to set the return pump to be on continously. I think something is missing smwhere as it shd be able to be use with continously "ON" mode for return pump! Else, how to use my water level sensor to control my return pump in the even of tank leak or overflow? <_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Yupe 1.5ºC throughout the day... don't see much of a difference except chillers kicking more often if I set 1ºC for night time... so probably instead of 5 times, the chiller will kicks in 6 times a day... so in the end may consume more energy.

But again, I am running a underpower chiller... things will improve (and able to achieve 26ºC) once I save up enough for my chiller upgrade :)

looking at the graph don't think you are running underpowered ..

if you upgrade you will still have to ON the pump about 5 times a day..

why not reset the curve to read differently for day and night?

My delta min is 0.5 and delta max is 0.3 and I set the temperature to be warmer at night and cooler in the day .. ie the chiller work longer in the day .. but take a rest at night :)

curve is set 28 degrees up to around 8am .. then slowly tapers to min of 27 degrees at noon time .. then working slowly up back to 28 degrees again at 9pm ..

;)

I believe how you set the temperature will impact how hard your chiller work :)

Here's a couple of findings for the conductivity

1. flow doesn't really have anything to do with measurements

2. Electrical devices DOES affect the readings ..

3. Dosing of certain chemicals ALSO AFFECTS the readings

4. Electrical leaks :P

aquatronica7na.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
looking at the graph don't think you are running underpowered ..

if you upgrade you will still have to ON the pump about 5 times a day..

why not reset the curve to read differently for day and night?

My delta min is 0.5 and delta max is 0.3 and I set the temperature to be warmer at night and cooler in the day .. ie the chiller work longer in the day .. but take a rest at night :)

curve is set 28 degrees up to around 8am .. then slowly tapers to min of 27 degrees at noon time .. then working slowly up back to 28 degrees again at 9pm ..

;)

I believe how you set the temperature will impact how hard your chiller work :)

Here's a couple of findings for the conductivity

1. flow doesn't really have anything to do with measurements

2. Electrical devices DOES affect the readings ..

3. Dosing of certain chemicals ALSO AFFECTS the readings

4. Electrical leaks :P

I think if we set to lower temp in the day, it may end up kicking in more offer even though if we set the temp at nite to be higher! Overall may not really reduce the electrical bill/ kick-in time.

Bro Gunzo, correct me if I'm wrong! When u set the max to be 0.5, does it mean that yr chiller will kick in whenever the temp is 0.5 deg higher than your ref. temp? Isn't it gonna kick-in more offer then setting it to 1-1.5 deg?

As for the Density probe, does it mean it shd be place away from electrical devices such as pumps? Does it apply to Redox and PH too? I got rather low Redox reading in my tank at ard 200mv. How abt you?

:thanks:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had read through the manual but seems like it's not possible to set the return pump to be on continously. I think something is missing smwhere as it shd be able to be use with continously "ON" mode for return pump! Else, how to use my water level sensor to control my return pump in the even of tank leak or overflow? <_<

Emm... let me go back and try set one of my pumps to run continuously... most probably what I will do is to set the timer to on at 00:00 off at 00:00... see if it will overide the system. Or have you already tried that bro Lyz77? If yes, do report to Italy and ask them why why why?!? :lol:

Using Water Level Sensor to detect tank leak? Emm... gonna involve 2 sensors I think. It can be done... I've yet to try that out.

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think if we set to lower temp in the day, it may end up kicking in more offer even though if we set the temp at nite to be higher! Overall may not really reduce the electrical bill/ kick-in time.

Bro Gunzo, correct me if I'm wrong! When u set the max to be 0.5, does it mean that yr chiller will kick in whenever the temp is 0.5 deg higher than your ref. temp? Isn't it gonna kick-in more offer then setting it to 1-1.5 deg?

As for the Density probe, does it mean it shd be place away from electrical devices such as pumps? Does it apply to Redox and PH too? I got rather low Redox reading in my tank at ard 200mv. How abt you?

:thanks:

Hi both bros

According to a LFS (and a bit of research on that matter)... actually the sea water (deep down) is cooler in the day than at night. This is due to more wind activities and exchange of heat between the water and the environment. Shallow water is opposite.

So we can better mimic nature if we are to set our temperature 1ºC to 1.5ºC higher during day time. However, this doesn't makes much sense to reefers in this region as we will end up paying a very hefty energy bill.

And yes, more kick-in = higher energy consumption = faster wear/tear for the chiller. That's the reason why, I set mine to 1.5ºC instead of 1ºC (Teco thermostat). Kicking in 5 times a day is very efficient already... but running 2 1/2 hours in a stretch is not. So I still think my chiller is unpowered. Perhaps a 1/5hp or 1/4hp Arctica (with Platinum coil) can chill my 75 US gallon within 35 - 45 mins (which is highly possible) instead of 150 mins. But on the other hand... I will also have to keep into account a 1/5hp Arctica consumes more than just 225W (my current Teco). So I don't expect the upgrade can save much electricity in the end... just make my study room more bearable at times... imagine me sitting in front of the computer... the chiller which is less than 6 ft away running from 8pm to 10.30pm ;););) Sauna leh!

I think it's good practice to avoid locating probes too near powerheads/pumps. All my probes are showing very consistent readings (coz I put them in a dedicated chamber away from pumps and the water flow is constantly moderate). That chamber is actually my last chamber before the water is being return to the main tank using only a Aquabee 1000, so the water is pretty clean (without much particles) and pretty aerated as most of the water that pass thru the IOS will be sucked into the Protein Skimmer (PH2500 pump). That's why my Redox is quite high... around 325 to 350mV.

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
I think if we set to lower temp in the day, it may end up kicking in more offer even though if we set the temp at nite to be higher! Overall may not really reduce the electrical bill/ kick-in time.

Actually it doesn't kick in and out frequently .. just runs longer .. and the most consumption is during the on/off of the chiller ;)

Bro Gunzo, correct me if I'm wrong! When u set the max to be 0.5, does it mean that yr chiller will kick in whenever the temp is 0.5 deg higher than your ref. temp? Isn't it gonna kick-in more offer then setting it to 1-1.5 deg?

Yes you're right .. I have a narrower temperature fluctuation than Jervis and yes .. my chiller is on for a longer time during the day also :P Anyway .. I run the RA680 (Jervis wanna swap?? :eyebrow::eyebrow: ) :lol:

As for the Density probe, does it mean it shd be place away from electrical devices such as pumps? Does it apply to Redox and PH too? I got rather low Redox reading in my tank at ard 200mv. How abt you?

Yes .. do not put near the pumps .. my density probe is now in the fwd sump compartment (check out the DIY portion of my sump design ;) ) the density is constant now at 1025.2 .. about 0.0007 off from my refractometer :yeah:

I don't use redox but I believe the principle remains the same since both the density and redox actually measures electricity / conductivity in the water .. hehe I tested with 2 wires hooked up to a battery on the conductivity probe to derive the conclusion :shock:

aquatronica7na.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Actually it doesn't kick in and out frequently .. just runs longer .. and the most consumption is during the on/off of the chiller ;)

Yes you're right .. I have a narrower temperature fluctuation than Jervis and yes .. my chiller is on for a longer time during the day also :P Anyway .. I run the RA680 (Jervis wanna swap?? :eyebrow::eyebrow: ) :lol:

Yes .. do not put near the pumps .. my density probe is now in the fwd sump compartment (check out the DIY portion of my sump design ;) ) the density is constant now at 1025.2 .. about 0.0007 off from my refractometer :yeah:

I don't use redox but I believe the principle remains the same since both the density and redox actually measures electricity / conductivity in the water .. hehe I tested with 2 wires hooked up to a battery on the conductivity probe to derive the conclusion :shock:

Bagus..... :bow:

Btw, any kind soul can lend me his/ her refractometer to counter chk my Density reading? :thanks:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...