Jump to content

Setting up new marine tank


Peihao83
 Share

Recommended Posts

to get a faster reply, try doing a search. many of these simple questions have been answered before :)

that said, feel free to post here too. many of us are friendly enough to help. i suggest reading up first, and then reconfirm by asking again. many of these have already been answered, and there are alot of information in the internet

opps.. sorry.. hehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 185
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • Senior Reefer
opps.. sorry.. hehe

no problem ;)

regarding bacteria, most come with instructions. so just follow them accordingly

RO/DI units are important to remove harmful elements in tap water, such as Cu2+ (copper), SiO2- (silicates), NH3 (ammonia), NO3- (nitrates), PO4 (phosphates) and other harmful chemicals. not to mention chlorine (Cl-). you can also buy distilled water for your water change. pricey though! ;) HTH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I never knew chengai could stain floor, have not seen any stains despite my multiple spilling and splashing of water.

Yup confirm Chengai will stain over time.

That's why my wife insist that my previous tank was outside at the balcony :)

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no problem ;)

regarding bacteria, most come with instructions. so just follow them accordingly

RO/DI units are important to remove harmful elements in tap water, such as Cu2+ (copper), SiO2- (silicates), NH3 (ammonia), NO3- (nitrates), PO4 (phosphates) and other harmful chemicals. not to mention chlorine (Cl-). you can also buy distilled water for your water change. pricey though! ;) HTH

ic.. i will read through and look for info.. anyway normal sand or live sand ? which is recommended?

and which marine salt?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ic.. i will read through and look for info.. anyway normal sand or live sand ? which is recommended?

and which marine salt?

live sand ==> cycling time shorter but cost much more.

there is a poll on salt. maybe you wanna check it out.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
is RO/DI necessary ? anyone have one to lend me first? hehe..

must i add bac during cycling? any bac to recommend? how much should i add?

RO is not necessary. It actually wastes a lot of water, typically about 1.1-2L of water wasted for every 1L of RO water produced. For RO filters, you need to take note of the membrane that they use. Some of the cheap ones use only 50GPD(Gallon Per Day) or 75GPD membranes. Also most people would use a flow restrictor with their RO filters. The flow restrictor used will be the same flow rating as the membrane.

DI filters will be better than RO filters because there is no water wastage. But for most DI filters, you need to use a very low flow rate through the DI resin in order to get 0 TDS.

For both DI and RO filters, they are rated for only a specific volume of water after which you will need to replace the filter catridges or the DI resin. As for whether people will lend you their RO/DI filters, I doubt it very much... :P

During cycling, you will have to add bacteria and the dosage you will need to add will be stated on the instructions on the bottle.

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks jacky.. hopefully my tank will be here beginning next month..

patience is the key Peihao

Don't rush hor.

When you get your tank, just cycle it properly.

Even when it is cycled, try not to go to LFS and buy all you can afford.

Play the game slow. Just treat it like a marathon and you will enjoy success more.

Who knows, your tank might even start cycling earlier than mine :)

Still waiting for my reefpack :(

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RO is not necessary. It actually wastes a lot of water, typically about 1.1-2L of water wasted for every 1L of RO water produced. For RO filters, you need to take note of the membrane that they use. Some of the cheap ones use only 50GPD(Gallon Per Day) or 75GPD membranes. Also most people would use a flow restrictor with their RO filters. The flow restrictor used will be the same flow rating as the membrane.

DI filters will be better than RO filters because there is no water wastage. But for most DI filters, you need to use a very low flow rate through the DI resin in order to get 0 TDS.

For both DI and RO filters, they are rated for only a specific volume of water after which you will need to replace the filter catridges or the DI resin. As for whether people will lend you their RO/DI filters, I doubt it very much... :P

During cycling, you will have to add bacteria and the dosage you will need to add will be stated on the instructions on the bottle.

Thanks for the info :)

bro, which DI u using? i am looking at the crystal pro, aquamarin is selling it at $198...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

patience is the key Peihao

Don't rush hor.

When you get your tank, just cycle it properly.

Even when it is cycled, try not to go to LFS and buy all you can afford.

Play the game slow. Just treat it like a marathon and you will enjoy success more.

Who knows, your tank might even start cycling earlier than mine :)

Still waiting for my reefpack :(

bro, mine will be later than u la.. still collecting equipments..

got to drop by some shops and start purchasing sand, salt n test kits.. where is cheaper ar? any recommended brands?

erm.. whats reefpack ar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
Thanks for the info :)

bro, which DI u using?

I'm not using DI filters now. I'm using a single cannister filter with 5 micron filter, activated carbon and phosphate/silicate resin. This is rated for 3000L of water for a single cannister compared to around 600L for the Crystal Pro single cannister DI filter.

The way I look at it is that fishes and corals probably do not require ultra pure water which is what you will get by using RO and DI filters. What is most important is to remove all the chlorine/phophates/silicates/heavy metals/other additives that are present in our tap water. :)

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bro, mine will be later than u la.. still collecting equipments..

got to drop by some shops and start purchasing sand, salt n test kits.. where is cheaper ar? any recommended brands?

erm.. whats reefpack ar?

my skimmer. Tunze reefpack 200.

Goggle it or browse through my tank thread :)

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
bro, mine will be later than u la.. still collecting equipments..

got to drop by some shops and start purchasing sand, salt n test kits.. where is cheaper ar? any recommended brands?

erm.. whats reefpack ar?

Sand, test kits etc, you can buy after your tank arrive...same for live rocks...no hurry for these... :D

Many different brands of test kits in the market. I use mainly salifert, API and tropic marine for my test kits. Price wise, I believe they are about the same in any shop. B)

U should collect your equipment before your tank arrives... :eyebrow: But during your cycling period, you will probably only require your chiller, return pump and skimmer. You will probably also need Reefmax Rid Phos or P04- during this period to control your phosphates... ;)

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not using DI filters now. I'm using a single cannister filter with 5 micron filter, activated carbon and phosphate/silicate resin. This is rated for 3000L of water for a single cannister compared to around 600L for the Crystal Pro single cannister DI filter.

The way I look at it is that fishes and corals probably do not require ultra pure water which is what you will get by using RO and DI filters. What is most important is to remove all the chlorine/phophates/silicates/heavy metals/other additives that are present in our tap water. :)

bro, what brand n model of cannister filter u using huh? comments for it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all, i have ordered my tank.. so what test kit should i buy huh? any receommended?

maybe start off with ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, ph, kh (carbonate hardness).

calcium, magnesium, strontium can test later when you have started stocking your tank with corals.

but I am not too sure, I never test my water in the past with my Fish only tank.

will let the other experts chip in here. I also want to know :)

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also remember to get a SG meter.

You need NH3,NO2 and NO3 and PH for cycling.

Other can get later when the cycle is over

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
whats sg meter huh?

so get nh3, no2 n no3 first? how about phosphate, calcium n ph?

SG Meter = Specific Gravity Meter = Reflectometer.

Yes, for cycling, you need to monitor Ammonia (NH3), Nitrite (NO2) and Nitrate (NO3).

Phosphate does not occur in the cycling process, so you only need to monitor phosphates (PO4) after cycling. All other test kits, you can wait until after your cycling is completed to get.

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SG Meter = Specific Gravity Meter = Reflectometer.

Yes, for cycling, you need to monitor Ammonia (NH3), Nitrite (NO2) and Nitrate (NO3).

Phosphate does not occur in the cycling process, so you only need to monitor phosphates (PO4) after cycling. All other test kits, you can wait until after your cycling is completed to get.

can i start to collect water after DI n store it? will the reading remain at 0 after 2 weeks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
can i start to collect water after DI n store it? will the reading remain at 0 after 2 weeks?

Yes you can. Reading will remain at 0 unless something leaks ions into the DI water... :eyebrow:

But how much water are you going to store? 800L for your new tank???... :whistle

And you are going to need a lot of salt... B)

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes you can. Reading will remain at 0 unless something leaks ions into the DI water... :eyebrow:

But how much water are you going to store? 800L for your new tank???... :whistle

And you are going to need a lot of salt... B)

yup.. almost 800+ litres of water.. i going to stock approx half first..

so how much salt will i need?

what salt to go for? tropic marine pro reef, oceanic, ME? any suggestion?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...