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That looks exactly like the Eco-lamps KR2.

they were using 1W LED the last time I checked.

MaxSpect would be a better option. Cheaper and using 3W.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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That looks exactly like the Eco-lamps KR2.

they were using 1W LED the last time I checked.

MaxSpect would be a better option. Cheaper and using 3W.

As I know MaxSpect using 3W so it has to be cheaper.

The LED 1W & 3W are the same thing, the input with 350mA is 1W, and input 1,000mA is 3W.

1W x 3 is much brighter than 3Wx 1, even they have the same power consumption, and 3W provide 3 times of heat of 1W, the lifetime 2 tims shorter than 1W.

I don't believe A101 just for a shallow, if it is exactly same as KR92.

Here is the Comparison MH400W vs 24" KR92. :eyebrow:

http://public.sheet.zoho.com/public/paddyk...ting-comparison

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The LED 1W & 3W are the same thing, the input with 350mA is 1W, and input 1,000mA is 3W.

1W x 3 is much brighter than 3Wx 1, even they have the same power consumption, and 3W provide 3 times of heat of 1W, the lifetime 2 tims shorter than 1W.

Bro, care to explain why u think that 1Watt LED and 3Watt LED are the same? When we measure lights for aquarium (photosynthesis purpose), we uses the PAR and Lumens as a guideline to see which system is the most efficient. From what I know, 1W LEDs can never achieve the same as a 3W LEDs.

Cheers

JC

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1W & 3W are same, so you don't need to pay more money for 3W, just drive 1W with 1000mA than it is 3W.

http://ledsupply.com/05027-pwc4-180.php

http://ledsupply.com/docs/tffc-k2.pdf

I assume you have done your own tests to measure Lumens and Par ratings to come out with that statement? Care to share your results? Sounds really exciting to me!

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I assume you have done your own tests to measure Lumens and Par ratings to come out with that statement? Care to share your results? Sounds really exciting to me!

I have a lot of experience on the LED DIY.I have been searching the new LED technology from internet.

It tells me no worth to pay more money on the 3W LED. And the same 1W does't provide the same Lumens & PAR.

Some 1W LED over 130lm, some less than 65lm.

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I have a lot of experience on the LED DIY.I have been searching the new LED technology from internet.

It tells me no worth to pay more money on the 3W LED. And the same 1W does't provide the same Lumens & PAR.

Some 1W LED over 130lm, some less than 65lm.

Bro need more convincing evidence if you want to claim 1W and 3W no difference. Many actual tests have been done by diy-ers on actual lumen and PAR readings compared to your research based on basic specs alone. I'm sure the LED gurus here will disagree with your bold statement.

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If you are talking about efficiency,

1W @350mA and 3W @1000mA,

1W is always more efficient than 3W in terms of lumens per watt. Thus it is not wrong to say that 3x1W will give more lumens than 1x3W. However if you consider the depth of tank than having 1x3W might be better than 3x1W.

Light follows the inverse square law, meaning if you double the distance, intensity will be reduced to 25%.

Assuming 1W@350mA is 100lm at 1ft distance,

at 2ft, it will only be 25lms.

Assuming the same LED driven at 1000mA, will be 250% of 100lm = 250lm

at 2ft, it will be 62.5%.

Thats why for deep tanks, Higher wattage LED is better.

If you are having a 1ft height tank then having multiple 1W LEDs is better.

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If you are talking about efficiency,

1W @350mA and 3W @1000mA,

1W is always more efficient than 3W in terms of lumens per watt. Thus it is not wrong to say that 3x1W will give more lumens than 1x3W. However if you consider the depth of tank than having 1x3W might be better than 3x1W.

Light follows the inverse square law, meaning if you double the distance, intensity will be reduced to 25%.

Assuming 1W@350mA is 100lm at 1ft distance,

at 2ft, it will only be 25lms.

Assuming the same LED driven at 1000mA, will be 250% of 100lm = 250lm

at 2ft, it will be 62.5%.

Thats why for deep tanks, Higher wattage LED is better.

If you are having a 1ft height tank then having multiple 1W LEDs is better.

you are right if you don't use lens with the LED. but normally I used to have lens with my DIY.

Let's say the 3W without lens and 1W with 50' lens @ 2ft you can see the 1W is brighter than 3W for sure.

What i am trying to say is unworthy to pay more menoy for the 3W LED.

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you are right if you don't use lens with the LED. but normally I used to have lens with my DIY.

Let's say the 3W without lens and 1W with 50' lens @ 2ft you can see the 1W is brighter than 3W for sure.

What i am trying to say is unworthy to pay more menoy for the 3W LED.

Bro with a 50 degree lens how many more LEDs will you have to mount to cover the same amount of space to prevent spotlight effect? Will SPS users still be able to keep SPS at 2ft and beyond? As far as I know, even 3W also need to use lens for SPS tank.

However, I agree that if you are going for a shallow tank, maybe keeping LPS and Softies, 3W might not be as cost effective. Maybe your broad statement could include some disclaimers so it won't sound as misleading? However, at the end of the day, the best judges would be the corals themselves. If you are running a 2.5ft deep tank running on 1W LEDs and experience good SPS growth, it will make a v. convincing statement :)

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you are right if you don't use lens with the LED. but normally I used to have lens with my DIY.

Let's say the 3W without lens and 1W with 50' lens @ 2ft you can see the 1W is brighter than 3W for sure.

What i am trying to say is unworthy to pay more menoy for the 3W LED.

FYI, 1W LEDs are obsolete technology.

Previously, manufacturers manufacture 3W LEDs and grade those lower quality LEDs at 1W. Nowadays, production yields are higher and reputable manufacturers already phasing out 1W LEDs. IMO, wattage is not a good indication of quality or brightness of LED. You need to look at the brand, model and bin. Currently, I only recommend looking at CREE, SSC and Luxeons. Any other LEDs are not worth considering IMO.

You cannot do that kind of comparison, optics can make alot of difference depending on design. Mount the same 50degrees lens on the 3W, you will definitely have brighter lights.

Assuming 1W@350mA is 100lm at 1ft distance,

at 2ft, it will only be 25lms.

The total brightness of 1W@350mA is 100lm, you never get 100lm at 1 ft.

You have to add a lens with less than 5 angle.

Values are given just for simple calculation to illustrate the inverse square law, it does not represent anything.

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Bro with a 50 degree lens how many more LEDs will you have to mount to cover the same amount of space to prevent spotlight effect? Will SPS users still be able to keep SPS at 2ft and beyond? As far as I know, even 3W also need to use lens for SPS tank.

However, I agree that if you are going for a shallow tank, maybe keeping LPS and Softies, 3W might not be as cost effective. Maybe your broad statement could include some disclaimers so it won't sound as misleading? However, at the end of the day, the best judges would be the corals themselves. If you are running a 2.5ft deep tank running on 1W LEDs and experience good SPS growth, it will make a v. convincing statement :)

I did not use any lens on my tank. Tank is 2.5ft tall, LEDs are mounted at least 1ft from top of tank so effectively 3.5ft away from tank bottom.

I'm seeing SPS growth even near tank bottom.

Optics will cut emission by about 10-30% depending on the lens quality. Moreover, if you use separate white and blue LEDs, you need to overlap them carefully to avoid areas of white/blue.

I prefer to keep things simple by avoiding all optics and use the full 130degrees for even color temperature.

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I did not use any lens on my tank. Tank is 2.5ft tall, LEDs are mounted at least 1ft from top of tank so effectively 3.5ft away from tank bottom.

I'm seeing SPS growth even near tank bottom.

Optics will cut emission by about 10-30% depending on the lens quality. Moreover, if you use separate white and blue LEDs, you need to overlap them carefully to avoid areas of white/blue.

I prefer to keep things simple by avoiding all optics and use the full 130degrees for even color temperature.

Now this is something really interesting. :) I assume you are using Cree XPGs? great stuff! Would love to hear more about your setup!

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Now this is something really interesting. :) I assume you are using Cree XPGs? great stuff! Would love to hear more about your setup!

Should just wait. XPGs will be outdated soon.

http://glassbox-design.com/2009/new-cree-l...umens-per-watt/

Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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Hi BarraCuda, I'm very interested to find out more on ur setup cos my next plan is to switch my main tank to LED and its also 2.5ft tall. What is the size of tank? How many LEDs did u use if u dun mind me asking.

JC

I have a thread in AF, my workmanship sucks so nothing compared to those DIY here.

http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315348

You can see the brown acro color up and growth.

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Should just wait. XPGs will be outdated soon.

http://glassbox-design.com/2009/new-cree-l...umens-per-watt/

Not really, what they have is a prototype and not commercially available.

They announce news to boost their stock! :ph34r:

It would quite some time like 1 year for the commercial production, another few months for higher bins and another few months for color LEDs.

Its like buying computers, processing speed will keep on doubling. Today is current, yesterday is obsolete. If you keep waiting, you end up buying nothing

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I'm using luxeon K2, CREE XRE currently. I have ordered some CREE XP-E royal blues, XPG is currently available for white only.

Heard the XPG is about 30% brighter yet smaller than the XRE bulbs. :eyebrow:

Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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