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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Just sharing on what i would do 1. From ur pics, it seems not serious, maybe not even disease, maybe sand or scratches. 2. Before u start any treatment, think of any reason why ur fish is infected? did u intro new fish or something? if not maybe its not disease. 3. Generally clownfish are tough buggers. they can take a bit of beating unlike the tangs which can GG fast. I would monitor first to see if it worsens, if worsen to picture below i would take action. Monitor their appetite and breathing. 4. Its best to set up quarantine for treatment. My clowns infected by brook b4, i did a freshwater dip to alleviate the condition, how to dip? you can ask mr google for more info. for me i take rodi water and let the fish swim inside for 3mins, include airstone for oxygenation. monitor closely for stress( heavy breathing) stop immediately if there is. 5. after dip, transfer to QT, i treat with copper( cupramine) dosage go slow. 6. lastly, disclaimer: as every lifestock response is different, i cannot guarantee the outcome, pls proceed at your own risk. I am just sharing what i did. Good Luck bro! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  2. 4 points
    Congratulation to all the winners ! Prizes by Value ( Highest to Lowest ) 1) AI 64 HD LED x 1 2) Clarisea SK5000 roller filter x 1 3) SPS Mystery pack ( 5 frags Worth $500 ) 4) Zoas Mystery pack (5 frags Worth $500) 5 ) Fauna Marin Balling set x 1 6) HARDCOREREEFER magnetic frag station petite x 1 7) Coral RX Industrial x 1 8) Coral RX Pro x 1 9 to 11 ) Vitalis Mini Marine Glazer 110g 12 to 16 ) Viatlis Algae pellet XS 60g 17 to 26) Coral RX Single Shot coral Dip 27 to 36 ) DD Coral Glass 37 to 42 ) Glue Onz coral Glue Winning List ( First to Last after removing duplicated name list ) 1) Darren Sim 2) soggycookies 3) RayTCZ 4) SubzeroLT 5) LittleNat1 6) MarCal 7) danano 8) victorchantm 9) Law88 10) Teck pang 11) Admiraltian 12) nuclear_fibre 13) R0B 14) Nick Ang 15) David 16) ZmasonJ 17) SaltySpivia 18) Clement Chen 19) yakh0o 20) Snoopyhamburger 21) Sherilyn91 22) brannonong 23) C.ZhengXi 24) jem 25) Patrick 26) Chronos 27) titustitus 28) josephwzr 29) chocolate98 30) pcw 31) reefercoral 32) zander 33) Daniel Poh Yang Zheng 34) milu_kaka 35) noobzpro 36) nico 37) nec 38) clementesia 39) CarnivorousGhecko 40) acodestny 41) teck4300 42) alvarogr
  3. 3 points
    I got lots of mohawk frags sitting around, if you're a newbie, come collect FOC, easy and fast growing coral for your new tank Otherwise, I would appreciate any amount of $$ haha, you name the price, if you want more i can arrange Collection at 400014
  4. 3 points
    Day 18 What a busy day today! Hooked up my DI system and did a 50% water change. My nitrates and Phosphates were sky high which also means the tank is cycled, must have been the cubes of frozen food i've been 'feeding' the tank during the cycling period. Tank parameters after 50% WC today: kH: 8.3 Calcium: 400ppm Magnesium: 1200ppm Potassium: 370ppm Nitrate: 50ppm Phosphate: 0.5ppm Now time to show some new equipments! I decided to get the Noopsyche K7 Pro II LED simply because it fits my budget, is very similar (or identical) spectrum wise to the Hydra 26 and has a single kessil-like lens per led puck. Turns out they are really well-built and the colors blending are awesome! The single dome lens perfectly blends each individual colors and there is 0 rainbow effect even at the top of my rock scape. Per led puck, there's 3 Cool white, 3 Royal blues, 3 Blues, 1 red, 1 green and 2 violets (400nm and 410nm). It would've been perfect if 1 of the cool whites were swapped with a warm white led. Another plus point is that all but the violets are Osram LEDs. With the provided mounting arm, i must say it complements the Red sea Reefer 170 really well. Well, the controller is not the most user friendly and the technology felt like a decade old. So i got the Jebao SLW-20M (wifi version) and as compared to the MP10, its size is really compact! To be fair, i should've included the rubber magnet used to angle the jebao wavemaker in this comparison photo. I personally preferred the Jebao over the Mp10 here because it has a much wider flow and i am able to angle the WM to point at an angled direction. The only bad point over the MP10 would be the cord visible in the tank. The jebao app is surprisingly easy to connect and use. Next up is my skimmer! I went for this interesting skimmer from BM because of the limited space i have in the sump, since i am adding a UAS, UV and possibly a reactor for phosphate removal media. The BM Z7 is well built and really easy to assemble, the design is well thought out with a drain outlet from the skimmer 'cup'. now this is exactly why i chose this model! It fits perfectly in the cut out section right infront of the filter cup area. I also found this container (at daiso) that fits the only space left in my sump and its perfect for 2 parts and a skimmate collection cup! I will end this update with a FTS with the Noopsyche led at 100% on all 5 channels. It is blindingly bright and i initially thought i might need 2 sets because of my scape, but the spread so far is pretty good. The shimmer is amazing too!
  5. 3 points
    Everything is settled so time to let the tank cycle for 3-4 months. Following WWC cycling methods. Gotten this second hand Maxspect IVC6 from one of the reefer last week. This allows me to control my Gyre xf350 thru app. I dislike the ideal of not including this ICV6 controller in the Gyre 2 pump set. We have to get it separately. Overall it’s quite easy to set it up. Using pump A for my main tank. Set 08:00 - 00:00 As random mode (highest 40% power) 00:00 - 08:00 As pulsing mode (highest 30% power) Overall I find the Gyre XF350 is really strong. It managed to push water across 4 ft with just 30% power. I’m very satisfied with the pump so far. Went over to dama to get another acrylic to replace my filter wool. Personally I don’t like how to follow at this section to my filter wool. It doesn’t fully utilised the filter wool so I’ve decided to switch it out with 2 4” filter sock to trap any large particles coming up from the medias. I really prefer the water flow now. [emoji1303] Currently also in the mist of setting up a simple small QT for coral and fish tank to ensure all the unnecessary pests won’t be in my display tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 3 points
    I believe the reason being livestock people will want to see and select taking a lot more time at the LFS/shop while hardware is you take and go and like you mentioned. We don't buy hardware regularly. Some people I know like to visit LFS/shop at least 2 to 3 times coz nothing to do. That's before this Covid situation. Technically, we are not suppose to go to reefer's house and we should be using courier if you follow strictly and this should be the option. Coz remember this is non essential meetup and the person might be fine for such act. LFS/shop are basically opened to sell the fish food/medication which we needed with a safe distancing measure.
  7. 2 points
    Duncan frags 6$ per head Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  8. 2 points
    Acropora nursery, a few inches from the surface at low-tide.
  9. 2 points
    Copperband butterfly Magnificent foxface Ocellaris clown Misbar ocellaris clown Clarion angelfish captive bred Scribble angelfish captive bred Goldflake angelfish captive bred (2inch) Joculator angelfish captive bred Purple Tang captive bred Midnight lightning Ocellaris Black frostbite Ocellaris Black Ice Ocellaris Helmet picasso Percula Black Picasso Percula Frostbite Percula Platinum Dalmatian Ocellaris Platinum Ghost Ocellaris Lemonpeel x vroliki hybrid Black cap basslet Royal gramma Cave basslet Rainbow basslet Panamic barnacle blenny Broadstripe cleaner goby (E. prochilos) Blue neon goby (E. oceanops) Red head goby Catalina goby Helfrich firefish Yellow head jawfish Blue spot jawfish Yellow tang (Central Pacific) Hooded wrasse pair (New Caledonia)
  10. 2 points
    Opens up to almost a feet long. Selling as i need more real estate (started to kill the corals around it) Self collect at CCK. Can arrange for contactless delivery at your cost. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    Fixture in excellet condition. Comes with hanging kit and tank mount to hang from. Also includes 2X giesemann super purple and 4X giesemann actinic blue less than 2 months old. 2 switch on fixture(switch 1=2bulbs switch 2=4bulbs). Will take it down when new light arrives sometime this week or early next week. Selling at $200 and collection is at admiralty. No nego please.
  12. 2 points
    Bro, S5 have peppermint shrimp.. u can go there buy..
  13. 2 points
    The elusive Pom-Pom Crab. It ventured out this evening, seeking shelter beneath the Montipora Setosa.
  14. 2 points
    My sump finally done! [emoji1303] Got my acrylic from DAMA trading it cost me around $90/- This Goop silicon/glue is really effective. It glued the acrylic and glass perfectly. Thank you Leon for the recommendation! [emoji4] I used two of this. One cost around $11.90 at hardware city. I applied double layer to ensure it can hold the water pressure. Added two more new valve to control my drainage and M2 output. Hope with this valve it can tune the flow more silent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 2 points
    Hi guys, Thanks for the participation, will be organizing the draw and update shortly.. Stay Tune !
  16. 1 point
    Nice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    Helping a fren to post his radion pro Gen 4 XR 30 ( 2 set ) for sale at $1,200 bucks with reeflink. usages ard 2 yrs with less than 50% intensity. Pls contact at this number 92252599
  18. 1 point
    Hi all, Have the following zoas for sale/trade! 1. Midas Gold (frag above, main colony below) - $20 2. Sakura Sunrise? (frag above, main colony below) - $20 3. Rainbow Infusion (frag above, main colony below) - $40 4. Super Saiyan? - $50 5. Sunflower - $60 6. Eagle Eye - $30 7. Watermelon - $30 8. Tequila Sunrise - $20 Location Clementi Can PM me or ctc me at 9o93494o
  19. 1 point
    A $25 B $10 C$7 Self collect at West Coast Gardens. Colony photo attached as reference. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  20. 1 point
    What do you think of this light? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Thank you for the detailed explanation! Hmm these 2 fishes are the only fishes inside the tank! Just finished cycling so no other fish before this also tried using seachem metroplex with fish food just now, so will observe to see if it helps. Appetite wise still eating very well and no laboured breathing or anything. will update! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  23. 1 point
    Taken, thanks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  24. 1 point
    Wysiwyg $500 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  25. 1 point
    Yeah always suspected got a reefer opposite my unit.. Hope all goes well.. Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    Large Aussie wall hammer Bigger than palm size Green body purple tip 160$ Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  27. 1 point
    They are aggressive and teritorial. If u have small tank idk if any fish is suitable. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    5 heads rbta attached to rocks $50 Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    Selling above for $20 per frag. Each frag have 2 to 3 heads. Whatsapp me at 9071 8848 to deal. Collection in changi. Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
    Thanks SRC organisers and also Suprem3 Corals for this contest and prizes! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  32. 1 point
    whatsapp 84339380 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  33. 1 point
    To carry on my build thread. Let's look what is going on under the hood, namely THE SUMP. (Be warned this is a rather long post even by my standards as I try explain why everything is placed where it is.. hopefully its helpful advice) Do you need a sump for a successful reef tank? Nope, but it certainly makes life easier and it allows you to scale up the quality of your filtration. So when setting up my new tank I decided to make my own sump put of a 67x60cm 6mm glass tank and some 8mm semi transparent acrylic. Key considerations were: 1) Installation of an automated Roller Filter 2) Refugium (Have mechanisms to promote rotation of Cheato. A method to ensure no stray chaeto escapes into next chamber. 3) Biomedia section (ensure doesn't become a detritus trap 4) Skimmer and reactor chamber (with capability to amend water height) 5) Dual return pumps (for redundancy and flow control) 6) Adjustable float switches 7) Probe holder 8) I also have limited space 70cm by 70cm. As I wanted a seperate section for electronics. So with these needs/constraints in mind... this is what I came up with.... Water drains from the DT into the Roller Filter. I played around with different plumbing methods, but discovered the stock flexible tubing is best. At one point it was hard plumbed with a union and a custom made adaptor, but it was really difficult to unplug for maintence, so I went back to the plumbing the roller filter originally came with. Now, whilst the Bubble Magus roller filter can hang on the side walls I decided to build some little shelves for it to stand on within the drainage section of the sump. There are two shelves, one towards the bottom of the chamber on which the roller filter sits, and another placed at water level that catches the roller filter lip, evening out the load. That said it's amazing how strong 8mm acrylic is even when acrylic welded in place. Probes: After a slight misadventure building a probe holding box (works really well but difficult to clean thus I wanted a maintenance free method) I decided to drill some holes in the shelves holding the roller filter in order to secure the probes. (I have five probes currently). This way the top of each probe would always stay out of the water for longer life, whilst ensuring the probe head is always in a consistent water level. By placing the probes in this first chamber I was hoping to get a more accurate reading of tank conditions. I think alot of sump designs mean that most people place their probes directly in the return section. This is where the water is the cleanest and least representative of what is actually happening in your tank. So without placing the probes directly into the main display, placing them just after the roller filter, and before any dosing occurred felt like the right thing to do. I did some tests on probe placement and it's amazing how they can change depending on where they are placed (will write that up in a future post) My Second Return Pump: Within the first chamber I have a return pump (skimz QP12.0 running at 30w) which powers a manifold covering my carbon reactor, UV and chiller before going back into the DT. I decided to place the second return pump here for a few reasons. Firstly I have arranged my plumbing sp that either return pump can feed my chiller and go to the DT, so if one broke down then the essentials were covered. Secondly I thought it doesn't make sense to power the manifold from the main return line once the water has been polished already. It made more sense to take the more 'dirty' water - which has only gone through the 20micron roller filter to remove the larger detritus And then feed that water through the carbon filter and the UV. I suppose it may make my carbon deplete quicker but it seems ok. The chamber also has a wave maker installed (a Jebao SW15) which helps keep the water churning away, making sure detritus doesn't settle. It switches on for 10-15 mins each hour. The SW15 is big enough to really move the water at a reasonable cost. Water exits the first chamber via some directional outlet holes that I placed in the bottom of the wall adjoining the refugium. I 3D printed them and thought this was a great idea to have fins move the water in a set direction, thus, promoting rhe macroalgea to rotate. Honestly I am not sure if they are very effective. I placed bubbles into the chamber and the flow was rather dismal, so I decided to add a wavemaker. I found that positioning the wavemaker near the top and pointing it downwars towards the rear wall works best (as the cheato doesn't get tangled in the blades). To help the wavemaker along I also 3D printed some curved wedges which sit either side of the refugium at the bottom, these do a good job of directing the water rotationally. Note the Refugium is/was lit by a Kessil H380 providing amble light (which stopped working... #verysad). Talking of lighting I am tempted (given the refugium is positioned towards the very end of the sump) to also light the refugium from the side. This way I won't suffer from the Cheato acting as a light barrier as it forms into a tight ball preventing the light getting into the middle (risking die off). Thinking out aloud, by simply placing a mirror on inside of the stand to bounce light into the side of the refugium could work as I could attack the cheato from both angles with just one light. hmmmm still pondering that idea, Let me know what you think? Water builds up in the refugium (which is about 40L in Capacity) before it is eventually skimed off and cascades through a custom 3D printed filter comb into the biomedia chamber. As the water comes through the comb, it pours onto a polyester filter pad, which catches all the detritus from the refugium. I change this pad about once every week. One bonus is that the water is aerated (degassing co2) as it falls silently on to the bio media. Note that the bio media water level is same as the skimmer section. The media is made up of 2kg of stacked maxspect biospheres. Whilst the chamber is walled it actually houses a removable acrylic box, very similar to the media caddies you get in back of IOS tanks, just a little larger. This was done to aid maintenance although I think I made it fit a little too snug as it's a fight to get it out (ooops). The box has a removable shelf at the top where the filter pad sits. It also has a removable viewing window towards the front, which not only makes sure all the water flows down through the structure but mainly is there to stop the media falling out when you remove the box. Water then proceeds out the bottom of this box, through a hole in the bottom of the chamber wall and into the main skimmer compartment. This third chamber is where I keep my zeovit reactor, carbon reactor (fed by overhead manifold) and Skimmer. Again I have another SW15 wavemaker in the skimmer section which is used for water flow. By placing the wavemaker directly opposite of the exit from the bio chamber (all be it on the other side of the compartment, I can create some backpresure and produce a little swell within the biomedia chamber, effectively cleaning the biomedia. It acts just like a zeovit reactor, pumping water in raises and lowers the water level removing any detritus / mulm. It is great to watch the water rise up and down in the biomedia chamber knowing it is giving the media a good wash. (FYI I have the wavemakers set on random flow, at about 80% capacity and they are controlled by my GHL system, which will switch then on for 10-15mins each hour) ...Thinking of it maybe i didn't need the zeovit reactor afterall. I could just have placed the zeovit in this section instead dialed up the wavemaker to 100% and made myself a mini reactor. That said I can control flow far better with the Skimz reactor... plus the skimz zeovit reactor is so awesome I wouldn't go without it! The water now enters the main reactor/skimmer section, my main concern was being able to get the correct water height. To control this I built my own control gate. The gate can be lowered or raised accordingly in super fine increments. Here I can set from a min 7inch height through to a max 9.75 inches, this gives me loads of control (it is currently set at arlund 8.1 inches). In order to build this I got a replacement skimz threaded handle from one of their skimmers and used it along with a glued in threaded nut as the main means of adjustment. (Hopefully the pic allows you to see how this works) Water flows over the adjustable gate into a bubble trap, which again uses the polyester filter pad to catch any detritus. Water goes into the bubble trap and is forced first down onto the filter pad (removing any more detritus) then it flows under a baffle before flowing up over another removable baffle. By changing water direction you remove micro bubbles. (To be fair getting correctly sized skimmer will help reduce your chances of getting micro bubbles). The water is now within the main return section. Within the return section I have an old Jebao 6000 return pump, along with a Rossmont mover wavemaker and a maxspect bio brick I also built some adjustable water level sensor holders. Here I have three sensors that sit attached to an acrylic rod. One sensor is used to control low water, this switches off the return pump and creates an alarm. Just above this is the second sensor that drives the ATO (which feeds into this chamber). Above this is the third high level water sensor, which switches off the skimmer (Used when you switch off the return). These were fairly easy to make and super easy to adjust. Having both low and high water sensors will allow me to use GHL's auto water change functionality (once I update the firmware ... a future project I have planned). As we are at the return section I thought I would mention about the return pump. As mentioned I have water flow sensors (placed just before the return nozzles at the back of the DT). I was amazed that my Jebao 6000Lhr pump gives me just 1000L out of the return nozzle. So maybe in the future I will get something a little stronger (anybody have an Abyzz 200 they dont want? Haha). So one consideration is making sure your sump has sufficient water flow through each section to cope with a bigger pump. #Fail: So despite my efforts my sump still sucks in several ways.... Firstly because my tank is fairly deep (back to front) my sump is also reasonably deep (around 70cm), and because of all the chambers I put in, getting my hands into the back chamber is really really very hard. And unless I disconnect the return and drainage lines and pull the sump out (it does fit on rails afterall) it is only with alot of sweat and bad language that am I able to maintain those sections. It is the price you have to pay I guess. I also have had a flood, as I didn't reconnect my return to the union correctly. As mentioned (and as from the photos) my sump pulls out from the stand. So in order for this to happen the union have to sit above the height of the sump, any leak then fell onto the skirting of the sump and dripped onto the subfloor where it spread everywhere, eek!! So whilst it seemed a good idea at the time. Unions may not be the best idea. Oh well lessons learnt for the future dream build. Anyway hope that helps. (Next time I will get into my electrics section) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  34. 1 point
    12 June 2020... A milestone of my tank.... Decided to bite the bullet and install Apex to my tank! Swapped out some of my equips 1. Maxspect gyre for Apex Wav 2. Jebao wifi doser for Apex Dos 3. Ph controller for Apex ph controller to control my CR directly. Took my return pump, chiller pump and chiller out for a vinegar bathe. Set up of Apex was a horrible experience as I was using my android phone to do it. It is a lot more apple friendly but once it is set up and linked up, it works the same. Redid all my wiring and also Swapped out my extension plugs to wifi plugs for those equipment tat does not need to be monitored by apex but yet want some ability to control haha! After 3 days of using Apex I can say if you are looking just for a controller dun bother, but a monitor and controller and a mentor... Go for Apex... Definitely worth the investment...the amount of pre programmed task, how you can log your results of test kits of any major brand and they convert it to the results u nid and plot graphs, the notification they give via emails haha just make me forget abt second guessing my tank. The last piece of the jigsaw will be when trident is here and it will link up with Dos to control my dosing automatically haha! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  35. 1 point
    Nice Tank setup! Thank you for sharing Stay safe & enjoy the hobby
  36. 1 point
    Nice mocha clowns!!
  37. 1 point
    You can find sulfur media from Aquamarin (Skimz brand). In the past, I also got it from DE Aquatic (Caribsea brand)
  38. 1 point
    there is no point writing in to NPark cos I have already done that & never got any reply starfish is considered livestock but yet, it is also considered food source to harlequin shrimps so if cannot buy starfish, those tat keep harlequin gonna die wrote in but they never bother 2 respond
  39. 1 point
    This is my current sump design. Drainage will go thru filter sock —> (from bottom to top. Ensure my water will pass thru my medias) my medias —> filter wool —> compressor coil (locates behind my skimmer) —> skimmer & torq reactor (FM carbon & Rowaphos) —> black filter (trap bubbles or any big dirt from skimmer/reactor) —> return pump. [emoji1303] I design in a way where I want the water to go/flow to wherever I want. You can search on YouTube to get some inspiration too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. 1 point
    Availalble for single unit purchase also
  41. 1 point
    To monitor your tank 24/7 even when overseas. Plug & play. Just download the app. Since I bought it over 2 years ago, I’ve only used once when I was overseas. After that kept in the store so it’s new in that sense. Asking for $100 (non-negotiable). Text me at 81117171 to deal.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    L50” x W 45” x H 50” with sump.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    And here are my two personal favorites in my reeftank as far as fish go: a Blue-Ring angelfish & a Moon Wrasse. These are of special value to me as they were locally collected personally and have been in my care for a while now. Pomacanthus Annularis Thalassoma lunare Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  46. 1 point
    5) The app and IP Camera will have prompt that your camera is connected! You will be able to see your camera live from your app.
  47. 1 point
    Dear reefers, I would like to start a thread to share my experience of setting up an outdoor tank. When I was having this idea 5 months back (due to limited space to setup an indoor tank), I was searching thru cg for inputs and comments but there was limited thread on this topic. Hence hopefully this thread that I’m about to start will be helpful for anyone thinking about setting up an outdoor tank. It’s purely sharing of my experience, far from perfection comparing to any professionals [emoji5] My indoor 322 at old house I’ve a indoor 322 prior to moving to this new ground unit condo. For an outdoor tank, I would say be more patience is needed and do more planning. To no surprise, there are also additional external environmental considerations to take note on top of the usuals for indoor tanks. Hence “site survey” is the first thing to do before many other things. Find the most ideal location (there will not be a perfect spot and in some cases limited options) that’s well shielded from rain and sunshine. It’s important to take note sunrise/set and seasonal rainfall changes across the year (to some degree). Ideal spot on the left, Patio facing a great greenery view. Fortunately I’m able to identified an ideal spot after 2 months of observing (wet and dry) weather conditions. Next is to consider the max allowable space and hence tank size tanking into considerations of sun and rain exposure. For my case it fits a 422 before tank starts to fill up with rain water [emoji28]. When it comes to tank build quality vs cost, I’ll have to take some risk to compromise “popping” of cabinet laminate. Constructing an outdoor quality wooden cabinet of 2m x 1m x 60cm is beyond my budget (>S$2K). For those that can afford it, got for it [emoji5]. As a preventive measure (or at least delay the damage [emoji27]), I implemented the following to minimise the degradation impact. Disclaimer, I’m also experimenting this [emoji28] 1) Used 2mm polycarbonate sheet from Dama to shield the laminate from harmful uv from sun and potential rain splash. 2) Strengthen the joints by gluing aluminium L brackets to hopefully avoid “popping” (pardon the the scorch taps, too lazy to remove after dry up). Polycarbonate sheet that looks like normal transparent plastics. The dark brown joint it the L bracket. Look of the tank The other challenge will be AC power. Typical patio or balcony will not have many (or none) power points for heavy duty usage. For my case there is only one !! I’ve asked the electrician how much can this source... average +/- 1000W. Calculating the total amount of power, I’m really at the brink with all necessary equipment in. Contingency plan will be to tap on lighting power points (if available) to source for low power equipments. There are pros and cons of sunshine, while many might worry about algae and electricity bills.. it has its merit of natural sunlight mimic the real sea environment. For my case, it gets 3-4 hours of morning sun which is ideal where I don’t have to turn on my lights, offsetting some electricity bill. Morning sun shining into live stocks, growing well. You can see the background reflect of the sky on the right too [emoji5] If you have a water point at the outdoor area, perfect ! Then your wc will be a lot more simpler. For my case, I’ve a water point Arthur patio area that I’ve hooked up my RODI just beside the tank. Thanks quite a long intro [emoji28]. Thanks for reading so far and hope you find it useful thus far. Next update will touch more on the tank setup itself. Happy reefing Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  48. 1 point
    Here you go! These 2 ah, after so long still cannot settle who is the boy and who is the girl... Gender confusion
  49. 1 point
    You are already posting one now..? Haha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  50. 1 point
    Usually for acclimatizing you would add abit of water, wait 10 mins, add abit more water, wait another 10 minutes, so on and so forth until the original volume of water at least doubles. For shrimps they are a lot more sensitive so you have to go through the process a lot slower. In future you might want to drip acclimate, it’s more gradual and you don’t have to keep going back and forth every 10 mins. Just use those air pump tubing and gravity drip the tank water into the bag. Simply tie the tubing into a knot to control water flow. Tighter knot = slower flow. I usually do 2-3 drops per second.

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