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i've kept marginalis two times. they are very much easier than rostratus and feed instantly on frozen. and out of the batch of more than 10 pieces, all were feeding. i've received feedback from a few friends here who have kept this species, all began feeding on frozen food. some even took small sized pellets. i'll agree that marginalis on a whole, is a generally harder level butterfly due to it's finiky feeding, but as compared to the copperband, it is much easier. and i won't call it expert only. difficult to moderate probably. i've also seen muelleri being sold in shops and they feed well on frozen food too. johan, i know you have a problem with me and you may think i'm some dumb kid who just goes around ripping stuff from the net and pasting everywhere. and while i certainly do not have as much knowledge as you, i'm not completely handicapped in this hobby. i did not get my job on reefbuilders just by lifting stuff off the net for nothing, and i hope that you understand. i have friends from the states who are well known scientists and well known people in the hobby. and while i do not have first hand experience by them, alot of the stuff i share here are translated by them. everyone starts out somewhere. i'm only 19 and i have a big passion for this hobby. you comment on everything i do and put me down. so what do you want from me?

I have recently purchased a 3 channel dosing pump hoping to improve the stability of my tank. However, I have several question that I would need to clarify. I know that there are no hard and fast rule on to what to add for the 3 channels. Still, I would like to know what you guys have been adding and what pointers to take note. Currently, I have a few in mind/ have with me. 1. Trace elements 2. 5 in 1 coral food 3. purple up 4. Iwarna topup Also, am I right to say that iwarna n purple up serve as the same purpose? Therefore, iwarna topup would be sufficient? Another question would be dosage/no of times per day. (Think this will be discussed after deciding on what chemicals to add) Thanks in advance for all your inputs.

yellow belly regals sadly do not come in at 1-2 inches. all juveniles you see here are grey bellies. but juvenile regals are yellow so they are often mistaken for yellow bellied ones.

For sale is a Eheim 2224 Canister Filter. Suitable for aquariums up to 250 liters, this model has a built in pump of 700l/hr. Canister volume: 6 liters Dimensions HxWxD:340 x 178 x 178mm new price 240SGD, selling at 70 SGD! Please PM me, pick up at Somerset MRT area. Unit is approx 18 months old. Brgds, Grover.

Your rics are very nice and healthy.may I know where to get nice and cheap one at LFS?

In the interest of retaining most of the beneficial bacteria in the crushed corals, the quickest way is just to lay er it with sand. So the key word here is "quickest". Subsequently, depending on the overall depth of the substrate, one can probably treat it like a DSB. There're reasons why some might consider this method, like : (1) Wanting to convert to a finer substrate look in the main display. (2) Decides to keep fishes like some wrasse, or snails, star fishes that needs sand. (3) Want to control level of NO3 using DSB. BTW, I've seen algae growth on tanks with sand bottom too. But for me, if I want a DSB, I'd probably do the following instead: (1) Relocate LS to temporary holding tank. (2) Remove all coral chip & UG from main display. (3) Gently rinse out the coral chip with tank water during WC. (4) Place coral chip into a basket & leave it in the sump. (5) Introduce sand into main display. (can take opportunity to re-scape if needed) (5) Let system run for a few days & swap filter socks. (6) Test water parameter to make sure things are ok before re-introducing LS. Voila! But having said all that, I'm still a BB guy. I prefer using chaeto than DSB to control NO3. But that's just me.