scarab

'Fibre optic' Pocci

Plnk and Blue Millepora

Some new top down photos Blue Hoeksemai

I no senior in reefing lah ....... other than my age, that is. Well, I'm willing to share experiences and listen to advices unless sarcarstic remarks and unnecessary posting start to surface. Let's reef on.......

Bro you hit the nail on the head. I think that is the way ozone should be used. Excessively high redox value doesn't mean it's good. Water with redox level of 375-400 mV is deemed to be excellent in reefkeeping terms, so excessively high redox level is .......well unnecessary..... I guess. The manner you achieve that level is also important. Remember, use in moderation.... However, you shouldn't reduce water change just because you are using ozone. Water change has different merits like replenishing trace elements, removing unwanted toxins that escaped your ozone/carbon/phosphate remover, etc etc. I still advocate water changes to complement your ozone usage.

You guys might want to check out the following thread in RC Ozone A bit too thoeretical for my taste but some of the practical tips are pretty useful Have fun

tayhonglee, Like I say, it's a rule of thumb. So don't rely 100% on it but use it as a gauge. monsterz is right on the reaction taking place only in the skimmer. Hence I don't even know if the thoery holds true for bigger tank you must dose more. Since reaction takes place in your skimmer, the parameter in check here should be the size of your skimmer and the skimmer pump output. The bigger the pump may allow you to dose more ozone as more water comes in contact with the ozone. That's purely my personal opinion. The best check is to monitor your skimmer. If it is not skimming as it used to you would need to adjust your ozone dosage. If your tank organics is oxidized to particles that are not skimmable, hence reduction in skimmer production, ozone might do more harm than good to your reef. However, I'm not too sure about the ich theory though. Used to run UV for the longest time but it never really got rid of my ich. Have stopped using since 6 months ago coz the bulb blew.

Sold. The successful party would have received my PM. Sorry for others who PM me. Thanks for your interest.

Have the following plating monti for sale Size 5 in by 4 in Selling $50 Price non-negotiable Interested party please PM Not on a first come first serve basis Collection Sat 1pm at Telok Blangah

Hey huanjie, Thanks for the extract. That is exactly what I'm getting coz in order to boost my redox to 420mV (don't know for what also..... ) I actually tune my ozoniser up to 150mg/hr. Think I was really overdosing the ozone. I have since cut my ozone to 75 mg/hr and limit my ORP controller to 380mV. And guess what, my skimmer is back in action..... Also read in RC the rule of thumb for ozone dosage is 0.3 to 0.5 mg/hr/gal. So for my 100 gal tank, I should only dose 50mg/hr. Since I not using air dryer I up it to 75 mg/hr to compensate for the drop in ozoniser performance. So guys/gals with 200mg/hr non-controllable units, be careful with the dosage. Think the only way to control a non-controllable unt is to run on a timer and limit the usage per day. And yes, I place carbon at the outlet of my skimmer as a precaution.

Daniel, heartiest congratulations on the arrival of your new baby. All the best to you and May May on this new journey in your lives. Happy changing diapers but still must spend some time on your tank eh? Cannot let standard drop ha.

This is what I'm worried about. The dissolved organics must go somewhere. After they are oxidise (due to ozone) do they disappear???

Bro, I think dry air only affect the production of the ozone by the ozoniser. Don't think it will affect the skimmer performance.

Thanks for your input Henry. I guess we are the only 2 reefers who is experiencing this skimmate issue with ozone. I'm trying what ozy suggested, to reduce the ORP level substantially and see if the skimmate increases. Maybe you might want to try and post if it has any effect. It seems that too much ozone in the skimmer affects the creation of bubbles (foam) in the skimmer causing it to skim less. Thanks.

Bought from Aquamart. I heard Petmart also have. Better call to check.

Hi sugi, Using Sander 200mg (controllable). Actually it took only 1 day to increase the 20mV but I kept it at that level for a week before increasing, afraid it might alter the water chemistry too much too quickly. Injected into the Beckett housing. The picture is below. Should actually use ozone safe tube for the portion after the T entering into the housing (turned brown already). Just wanted to see the effect of the ozone, will change out soon.

Thanks alan for your input but it's statement like the above that separates the real from the unreal in this world.

So how differently do you think??? Post your thoughts or experience lah. Ambiguous posting like this doesn't help anyone.

Need to seek opinion and experience from ozone users here. Been running ozone for a month and during the 1st week the skimmer went crazy and pull out a lot of gunk. Redox level went from 340mV (before ozone) to 360mV (after 1 week) I up the ORP controller to 380mV the following week and see the redox level slowly increase, then I see the skimmate begin to reduce. After 4 weeks (I'm running my ORP controller at 420mV now) I'm only getting about 50% of the skimmate I get before I started on ozone. Is this normal? Or is ozone converting the dissolved organics to something that is not skimmable? There'a a thread on in RC discussing this but I trying to find out 1st hand experience from ozone users here. The water looks great though, super clear......Reef is doing fine as well. Just a bit puzzled with the amount of skimmate I'm getting. Where did the dissolved organics go to???? Appreciate any input...

Bro. very nice Tank is looking good, my friend. You are keeping good colours on your SPS. Keep it up and continue with the photos. Great job.

WOW!! This is a really interesting and exciting thread.... Keep the updates and pictures coming. Good work bros.. Kudos to your hard work and dedication.

Sorry, just need to find out. Does this equipment measures both the organic and inorganic phosphate?

Bro I thought FR is used to fluidised to media( hence the name Fluidised Reactor ) keeping it in suspension to have full surface contact of the GAC with the water??? As long as it is fluidised, no chanelling will take place what. So the flow should be high enough the keep the media in suspension. The same thing for GAC in mesh bag. If placed in low flow area, chanelling will take place like what you said or with the flow only on the surface of the mesh bag (low flow unable to penetrate into the media deep inside the bag) the only GAC in contact with the water are those on the outer surface. The GAC inside will not be efficiently used. Of course kneading the GAC will help but I think higher flow will also do the job. And we are trying very hard not to stick our hand into the water if we can right?? Anyway that was my understanding and I found it to be logical. On top of this, GAC should be changed every 10 days, max 14 days as it loses it absorption capability after that. Then it become something like bio ball or glass rings ........but I'm not going into that.......

Well I thought the key to using carbon is to add small quantities and change frequently, so the small quantities will not cause sudden changes in your tank. Since carbon is put in low flow area (BTW I put mine in quite a high flow area, at the outlet of my skimmer), the sale of FR for use of carbon will surely drop. I thought the idea of FR is to have sufficient flow to fluidise the carbon to get maximum surface contact for better absorption. Since low flow is the key, I guess FR use for carbon will be useless then. Guess I must have miss the point somewhere...... Thanks for the explanation.

May I know why put in low flow area? And why must knock the bag???