Michael Young

Not unless if you have a Diadema Long-Spine sea urchin or a large parrot fish that will bite chunks of your rocks. Coralline algae are quite hard and are not palatable by most creatures. As far as I know, the only common animal that we keep in our reefs that will feast on them are the Long-Spine sea urchin.

Hey people, Here and here are what people are saying about CoralPlankton and BioPlankton on Reef Central. Mike

U guys downloaded the 10-min video of his tank? Tried attaching the file here but its 34mb! People with dial-ups, prepare to take all day to have it downloaded.

Hey guys, the shelf life for CoralPlankton has been increased from 3 to 4 months with the upcoming shipment. I hope this is good news for people with small tanks whom may be worried that they may not be able to finish the bottle before it expires. In fact, during one of my earlier correspondences with Edward Ramirez of LLUSA, he told me that even though CP was rated for a 3-month shelf life, it'll only loss all its nutritious value in 6 months.

I agree. Whether or not there's algae bloom does depend alot on more than just what you feed.

Can't view on Mac. You have it in QT or Real format?

Anymore pic updates Max?

Parts for DIY T5s are now readily available: 1. IP67 waterproof end caps can be bought at Octopus Bay 2. Reflectors from ATI, Deltec, Arcadia etc are also available locally. 3. Osram T5 e-ballast can be bought at local lighting shops

... the solenoid regulator...

The best and most reliable solenoid regulator is the one made be Dennerle. It is entirely encased in black high grade plastic with no exposed metal parts. There's also a LED lamp to indicate that the regulator is in operation. Also included is a plastic one way valve and mounting bracket. The only thing bad is the cost (>$200) Here's a pic of the box....

Its an Indian Ocean Mimic Surgeon Acanthurus Tristi, not a Red Stripe Angelfish Centropyge Eibli that it trys to mimic.

It's not wise to add more buffer until Osmosis can ascertain what is the cause of his depressing pH.

Osmosis, what is the size of your tank and bioload? If your livestock level is high, dissolved CO2 and waste product (both acidic) from your fishes will depress the pH of your tank. If this is indeed the case, the pH of your tank will fall back to its natural level of 7.7 no matter how much buffer you add.

Nobody will no for sure even when looking at the sand physically. You really need a lab test to know what it really is. My policy: If in doubt, don't do it.

Try Biostar Aquatics in Pasir Ris Downtown East.

When live rocks are harvested from the sea, some bacteria as well as other living organisms living on the rocks will die off and begin to rot. That's the reason why newly arrived live rocks always smell. These are uncured rocks. To cure the rocks, you need to put them in a seperate container/tank, hook up a protein skimmer and a couple of power heads to maintain good circulation for a few weeks. This is basically the nitrogen cycle where NH3/4 will be coverted to NO2 and then to NO3 when it will be exported by the skimmer. If you add uncured rocks to your aquarium, there will be an ammonia spike and all you livestocks will suffer.

Yes, you're right that the deeper regions of live rocks do harbour anaerobic bacteria which will convert nitrate to nitrogen. However, IMO, I feel that the nitrifying bacteria and anaerobic bacteria will simply cancel each other out. Live rocks aid in the nitrogen cycle but doesn't really eliminate NO3 because of the nitrifying bacteria living on them.

I disagree. Nitrifying bacteria live in live rock and they convert NO2 to NO3.

www.redseafish.com

No. Low water temperature (22-23 degree C) does not stress fishes nor neither will it cause an ich outbreak. The key is to have stable temperature be it in the low or high 20s. Fluctuating temps will stress fishes, lower down their resistence against infections, which may result to protozoan infections.

Maintain it for as long as it takes. If Ich still prevails, you may drop it down slowly to 1.010. Don't be alarmed by this cos the acceoptable salinity range for an aquaria is 1.010 to 1.030. As long as its done slowly, it will not kill your fishes.

There are so many ways your fishes could have died from. Without more information of your tank and the livestocks you have, one can only guess. The one I can offer a very probable answer to is why your mandarin die: Starvation. Mandarins are not for new hobbyists with small and inmature tank. They did a constant supply of copepods, amphipods etc to thrive; which small and new aquaria does not have. Unless, you can find one that will feed on frozen food, it'll slowly starve to death. Mandarins are beautiful fishes which are better off left in the ocean, unless we can provide the optimum environment for it to live.

14 dKh is not too high so you don't need to sweat it. Some reef experts in the US actually recommend it. If the wheel ain't broken, don't try to repair it.

Your water salinity is still too high. Your fish won't feel the effect if you drop it slowly like I suggested. Did you know that some LFSs have water salinity that is much lower than 1.021 for their newly imported fishes?

U can put them in the same tank as long as they're about the same size.