patrick123

Bro, Well said. I fully agree with you. Don't stop posting. Since your DIY has given us a lot of good ideas. I will not hesitate to share my ideas with you when appropriate too. Happy reefing Best Regards, Patrick

Wow...very nice scaping. I like your new scaping a lot better than the previous one. Looks so much more natural and spacious.

Yeah lor. I thought T5 can normally last for about 1 year.

Wow... nice tank with lots of gems. Great work!!! BTW, I see two CO2 tank. Are you running 2 CR? Wow.... BTW, what are you using the 3 dosing pump for? Thanks, Patrick

No worries bro. RM is a good product. I use his beckett and it is fantastic.

Wow...you sell the CR already??? so fast. upz.

I'm interested to know how Singapore brad pitt looks like.

time to do a bulk order on PO4 meter liao. I'm tired of matching the color too even when I'm using the Salifert test kit. Everytime the color is "a-ga a-ga" (roughly). Sometime feel that why even bother to test when I cannot even get the result.

Are you running your eheim in-sump or out of sump? I thought that the eheim comes with 2 connector. 1 is 16mm and the other one is for 19mm (I believe). I think the intend is to use the 19mm for inlet and 16mm for outlet. But if you use it insump, then you can just use the 19mm connector that comes with the eheim pump to connect to your hose. I have a Eheim 1262 also, and I'm using the 16mm pumping to return to my tank. Not sure if there will be significant improvement in the flow if I change it to 19mm hose. Any one?

For the 45 degree joint, you can get it from most of the pvc shop.

If you have 2xEheim 1262, then use them. These are some of the best pump money can buy and guarantee to run for years to come. Spare parts are readily available. Especially 2 pump is better than 1. In case of 1 pump fail, you still have a backup. For the 5x90 degrees bend, try to use 2x45 degrees instead of 1x90 degrees joint and this will improve the flow significantly.

In principle this is true. However, there are some easier to care for anthias, e.g. barlett, lyretail, dispar.

Shoelevy, You don't have to pressurize the CR. All you have to do is to bleach all the air in the CR, and ensure the lit is airtight and you are all set. The CO2 and the recirculation pump will do the rest and drop your ph. You may want to connect a small T joint to your return pump and pump the water into the CR. Do you use any valve to control the drop of your water? Looking at the picture, may be air is leaking in through the outlet of the water return to sump and that's why your CR is not pressurated.

I'm surprise that you are not using any pump to pump water into the CR. Does it work this way? A good article to tune CR can be found in the following url: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-05/sh/feature/index.htm Regards, Patrick

Hi, Did you check to see if the bubble is indeed CO2? If the bubble get trap in the cavities of the ARM, this may be air instead of CO2. Did you properly release all the air in the CR and ensure there is no air bubble inside before you run the CR? The fact that your PH is around 7.3 indicate that the CO2 has not been dissolved into the water in the CR. Is your CR airtight? The CR needs to be air tight to create a localized pressure to dissolve the CO2 into the water. You may want to check your blue sponge too. Is there any bubble trip below the blue sponge? This may indicate that the blue sponge is clogged. Hope this helps.

Not sure if this applies to you, but I used to have the same problem. Turned out that it was the piece of cotton wool undernealth the ARM preventig the CO2 from dissolving properly and ph could not be lowered. After I replaced the cottom wool with a piece of plastic mesh, the problem went away. I can now lower to 6.5 without any CO2 buildup.

how come no mention of anthias?

I pour hot water and they are gone forever. Less than 2 minutes job. hehehe

I tried kalk before, the next week, it grow even bigger and start spreading. I would suggest to take it out, and pour boiling water on that one part of it. After that, put the LR back to the tank. No damage done. The part that you pour hot water will turn green at first and than white. This means that the coraline algae is died. But in no time, it will grow back. Save you a lot of effort in injecting kalk.

Wow..you think I so "chee koo peh" is it.

True. But just wanted to know what the market rate now a day. Seems like not easy to find nice colorful LPS these days.

Now a day prata are not cheap. I bought one all red prata recently for $150. Is that expensive or is that the market price these days?

Didn't read the news but don't under-estimate what these China girls can do for $$. May be is a case of "no-money, no-honey". So love turned into hatred.

haanZii, Wow...can see that you are really good with DIY. Great work. BTW, why do you have to drill the sump? You can use a U-pipe and do siphoning into the pump right? Regards, Patrick

I notice my coraline algae turned white when I pour hot water on it to get rid of aptasia. So I'm quite sure white=dead coraline.