vincentwangz

Nope. Only doing water changes. This is because Triton did not recommend using carbon to remove, but only to do 6 water changes with uncontaminated salt. I also read up and it seems carbon cannot remove Tin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hello guys it's been a Long time since I updated this thread. Mainly because my tank looked the same, and I was working very hard to make my tank habitable for corals. Am Glad to say some progress has been made. For a Long time I could not figure out a number of issues that was plaguing my tank. My nitrates was fluctuating between 25-50 ppm consistently and I finally decided I needed to add more rock for biological filtration. Added 6 kg more rock and also dosed vodka. In time my nitrates went down to 12ppm and kept it there for a Long time. Still there was something that was making my corals not multiply. When I could take it no longer I sent my water for a triton test, and found the biggest culprit to be a high level of Tin found in my water. I need to isolate the source now. I have just changed out my resin as my water was reading 26 TDS so that may be one possible cause. Another cause may be contaminated KH and Ca dosing solution as things have improved once I changed it. I also added an ATS to deal with my nutrients issue more effectively. It has yielded a lot of algae every 2 weeks. Here is the latest video update that I have for the tank. Happy Reefing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Usually if u intend to keep a refugium, refugium mud is a good option to add as it helps grow the macro algae that u add in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh the flow rate is at 25 litres in 20 mins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stirring the sand bed actually releases beneficial bacteria that have been in the sand. That actually helps to deal with your nutrient levels. I blow my sand and rocks once a week especially now that I have a cyano problem. Some swear by a bare bottom tank, but sand does play a part as a media to host beneficial bacteria in my opinion. Besides the bottom of the tank glass will be unsightly with green and red algae growth due to exposure to light. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for your vote! Haha it was you who introduced me to the ATS! Totally worth the investment! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm. It is hard to determine the exact volume but I do a 25 litre water change every week. Assuming that is 100 litres a month, it would be give or take 600 litres before the resin is exhausted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've tried both and will lean towards ATS as it continues to yield a good amount of algae which I assume is a good thing. For those who don't know how it works, an algae turf scrubber is a box that contains a mesh that breeds algae as there is a light source and exchange of oxygen which encourages the growth of algae. This then pulls out the excess nutrients from ur display tank as the algae in the ATS absorbs them for their growth. The drawback for an ATS is that it releases a lot of algae into the water when you remove the screen for clearing of the carpet of algae that has formed, and though harmless, it is unsightly. Now a biopellets reactor is something that provides a food rich environment for beneficial bacteria to thrive. Due to a thriving colony of bacteria, the nitrates and phosphates are consumed. The thing is, biopellets reactors are messy and get clogged often. Whether you use the normal reactor or the recirculating reactor, one common issue I've heard of in the hobby is that the output gets clogged and then the pellets go bad (the bacteria dies and becomes excessive organic waste), resulting in an overflow of the skimmer and a resulting sump that looks like it had a bubble bath. So, for me, an ATS (the waterfall type seems to yield the most algae) is the winner between the two as a means of reducing nutrients in a controlled but natural way. How about the rest of you? Happy Reefing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Saw ur tank and believe what you're doing is sufficient for a successful reef! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Am still investigating. It could either be my rowaphos pump which is an old model, or it could be the dosing solution I used previously that may have been contaminated. Since I've changed my solution to Reef Evolution's Reef Tonic 1 and 2, my corals have had a much better response. If after 6 water changes of FM salt solves the issue, then the problem is solved. If not, I'll change out my rowaphos reactor's pump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I have a 5 stage DI unit; 1 sediment filter, GAC, carbon block, and 2 resin. It produces 0 TDS for me. I have to replace resin after 6 Mths. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Beautiful Reef! How are you managing your nutrient levels? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks amazing buddy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow lovely new tank bro, and a lot of unusual and awesome features like the overflow to hide wavemakers and frag station, and the glass to make floating rocks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys! Hope everyone's been having fun with your reefing journey. I'm just reflecting on mine and realise it has been almost 2 years since I started (first 35 litre Nano Tank bought on 15 June 2015). Back then, I really did not know much about the hobby and just bought sea water from Pacific Reef and started the hobby right away! Since then, I've encountered all kinds of issues (algae, fish diseases, brown jelly, STN on SPS corals) that have really made me ask, what's in the water? I realise I have been through different Seasons to test my water: - The Wait and See Approach This approach will be familiar to most; if corals look like they are shrinking and showing some skeleton, then it's time for a water change. No test kits are even used. - The Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate Tester When I first started, that was all I knew to test, using the API test kits which was the only brand I knew since I switched over from freshwater. Some also test these parameters the most during the Cycling phase. Once over, they adopt the wait and see approach. - The Ca, KH and MG Relationship As I went along, I read that there was a sweet spot for these parameters and learned that some only test for these to be at 450 for Ca, 8-9dkh, and 1350 ppm for Mg. - The Full Suite Home Test Kit Along the way, I realise that I have more test kits that types of fish food. I invested in the entire Nyos line of test kits (Ca, KH, Mg, Po4, No3), and tested them religiously every week. I even bought a Hanna Alkalinity Checker and one for ULNS Po4 checker. You can imagine how Long it takes to finish all my tests! - The Triton Tester Sometimes there are unexplained reasons to why your livestock are not able to thrive and grow. I encountered such an issue and could not find out why even after doing a change of rocks, waiting out 8 weeks, running rowaphos in my system to bring down phosphates, and many other measures. My corals just died a slow death one after another. That is what caused me to finally send my water for a triton test. It revealed that I had a high amount of Tin in my system that was dangerous for livestock. This would not have surfaced if I did not go for a triton test. Having said that, there are so many recommendations by the triton lab that I personally feel is a challenge to follow. How about the rest of you? How far did you go to test your water and troubleshoot issues? Or did you just do a straight reset of everything? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello guys, been a long time since I have updated, mainly because I have been battling a mysterious die out of my corals. However, my fish have been doing very well, with no sign of disease or illness. My parameters have been stable, but my nitrates had spiked to 40ppm from 5 ppm before I changed my rocks. I suspect there are two reasons. One, I decreased the volume of my rocks to half the amount it was, so my beneficial bacteria suffered. Two, I added Chemipure carbon to deal with the water turning green. I suspect chemipure strips out too much bacteria in the water column that the remaining bacteria are not able to keep up with the bioload. I have since removed the carbon bag, and am planning to get more rocks. In the meantime, I installed an ATS to bring down the nutrients and also changed my biopellets to NP biopellets instead of Purbio. I also installed a dosing pump to maintain my calcium and alkalinity at a stable level. I hope these changes will help with improving my tank's ability to keep corals. After removing my carbon bag and switching biopellets, the leather has done well. The clam is the only one that has done well regardless in my tank. These blastos too. Recently acquired candy cane frag. Also doing well. Metallic green GSPs also starting to grow. I hope these will be an indication my tank is starting to improve. Happy Reefing everyone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Helping a friend to clear a lightly used 4ft light that comes with presets and tank mount. For serious buyers only, in perfect working condition, used for 7 mths and reason for selling is due to upgrade to Radion. Price slightly negotiable at $750. Contact seller at 82335784. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Helping a friend to clear a lightly used 4ft light that comes with presets and tank mount. For serious buyers only, in perfect working condition, used for 7 mths and reason for selling is due to upgrade to Radion. Price slightly negotiable at $750. Contact seller at 82335784. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hobbes did not make purchase as required before taking picture Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Final location: 11) Aquarist chamber Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are the 10 locations to date: 1) Petmart 2) N30 3) Green Chapter 4) Madpetz 5) Aquarium Artist 6) Fishy Business 7) Pacific Reef 8) Iwarna 9) C2 Aquarium 10) DE Aquatics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a pic of the melanarus wrasse. It was hard to catch while in the water so he had to do this. [emoji13] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got two fish to sell at 10SGD each as tank has been reset. Both are healthy fish, feeding on pellets, mysis. Pls contact Deming at 8233 5784 to deal. Collect at Punggol Way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha thanks Nasotang. it is reef safe. U just need to be sure the fish are compatible. Sofishticated Friend