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Indeco last won the day on January 16

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  1. sry for the lost bro, yap brook kill damn fast.
  2. Erm bro, this will work for mild ich and bacteria infection. Most of the bacteria and parasites, u still need to treat the fish properly.
  3. Don't use copper it don't help. If can u go FNM buy Ruby reef rally and bath it else u can do fresh water dip for 3min make sure PH match. After that put in a QT tank and dose seachem Metroplex. Also mix it with food and feed it. You need to act fast, brook normally kill in 1 or 2 days.
  4. If you see mucus around the body mean is brook and u need to act fast. If not, should be bad bacteria infection.
  5. Hi, welcome to the reefing world. 1) For the tank size limitation, I think is better to check with your local authority as different country got different law. 2) My suggestion is start with small and docile fish first and slowly increase. You fish list mostly will change after you start to know more about this hobby. 3) Angel and Butterfly mostly is not reef safe so you need to check before you purchase. 4) For Tangs, if you want to add similar species it will be better to add them all together instead of one by one. E.g. purple, yellow, gem tang should be add together for higher chance o
  6. Why not get 1 or 2 frag to try out then u will know already. Parameters is one of the criteria, flow and lighting also play a big part.
  7. Looking for toadstool leather. The shape must be similar to the pictures below. PM me if you selling, preferably collection in the west.
  8. Selling the below corals. 1) Golden Clove - $25 2) 3cm blue spotted red discosoma - $12 3) 3 heads torch - $65 Interested PM me, collection at Jurong.
  9. Selling the below corals. 1) Golden Clove - $25 2) 3cm blue spotted red discosoma - $12 3) 3 heads torch - $65 Interested PM me, collection at Jurong.
  10. Welcome, feel free to ask around if u have further question. QT is a good practise that allow u to walk far and smoother in this hobby.
  11. For QT tank, normally I don't manage NO3. Just make sure the tank is cycled without ammonia spike will do. Water Change is mainly the nutrient export for QT. My idea is don't keep fish that QT tank can't hold else will required more water change which will make it hard to maintain the treatment. Ideally if you can treat your fish for those typical parasites like Ich, fluke, brook, bacteria infection before adding into you main tank it will be good. For sick fish, you just need to target treat it based on the issue you found. Tank setup is the same as QT tank. You can use your current setu
  12. If u want to use it for QT, th best is u remove chaeto, UV and try not to have too much media. Chaeto mostly will die due to medication, UV suppress the parasites and bacteria so might give u a false alarm that the fish is ok and u will stop treatment. Some medication will be leech by the media and make the dosage hard to maintain. Light is optional for fish but I normal don't on it for long until they become stable. U may want to consider a ATO and also increase oxygen exchange.
  13. The standard dosing steps are 1st dose -> wait 3 to 5 days -> run carbon or 30% water change -> 2nd dose -> wait 3 to 5 days -> run carbon and water change Think to take note - Skimmer must be turn off, if u want to on it then make sure remove the skimmer cup and let it overflow - Make sure surface tension is good for oxygen exchange - Wrasse is quite sensitive to medication, so the above steps don't apply to it - do not mix medication or add dechlorinator For QT tank treatment, same steps apply.
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