BarraCudaTM

From my limited knowledge, there is no special shutdown procedure for the compressor by the internal thermostat. The internal thermostat will just cut off the power of the compressor when the temperature is reached.

You must speak to my CO, if he give me off then I go. Seriously as a nsf, I dont have much time to do all these already. In fact I was selling such temperature controlling solutions sometime ago but couldnt keep up with the work My advise to you is not to try fixing it yrself if you are not sure. The chiller and thermostat maybe damaged if not connected properly or improper settings are used. Its best to seek advice from a qualified electrican.

Atman thermostat is foolproof, nothing to set, nothing to play with

If you are running a dedicated pump for yr chiller, it makes sense that you only run the pump when the chiller is running. This will save electricity and have a lower heat gain as the powerhead is only running when required. Temperature sensing is no longer a issue because the probe is already inside yr tank, it measures the actual water temperature and not the temperature of the water going into the chiller.

hrmm .. Are you sure you are using the original eliwell? I bought alot of their thermostats and none of them came with chinese instructions. The reason I dont modify the chiller internally is because its very difficult to replace the gap left by the original thermostat with the external thermostat. Secondly, I dont void the warranty because I did not modify anything. The external thermostat acts like a temperature sensitive timer which will turn on/off depending on the temperature.

My chiller will start every 2hrs or so and run for 1-2hrs to bring the temp from 27.5 to 26degrees. I'm using the eliwell controller too, the probe is water proof provided that you dont pull the probe, the connection between the stainless steel probe and the silicon wire is fragile. Any forceful pull will dislocate the silicon seal and short the probe. I hooked up the external thermostat directly at the main supply of the chiller. No modification is done internally. The chiller internal thermostat is set a few degrees below yr desired temp. E.g 23degrees when you want 26degrees. Set the external thermostat as desired and it will turn the power on/off the chiller and pump.

I have yet to recieve any email. Why dont you ask here?

yap, its cloudy eyes. From my experience, it quite difficult to cure completely when its too severe.

This forum dont like me lah, always treat me as an outcast btw I already pm you already, if you cant reply to my pm. You can email me at barracuda@arofanatics.com

Its because reefworld is selling $4 each

it could be chiller underpowered pump flowrate insufficent cold water "shortcircuit", the cold water is being circulated between the input and output of the chiller hence giving it a false cold reading. This normally happens when the input and output is very near. E.g both in sump

The idea is to keep the glass probe wet with a non corrosive fluid. You can put a few drops of the calibration fluid into the cap and keep away from heat. This will last for a few weeks so you will have to take it out to use it and top up the fluid in the cap.

Something is wrong with yr configuration. If the chiller starts every 3mins, very soon the compressor will breakdown.

I bought my hanna pH pen for $39

pH pen have a longer life compared to pH meters as they not used continously. If the glass probe is washed with freshwater and stored in pH7.0 calibration fluid or potassium chloride after every use, it can last you at least a few years. pH meter used continously will cause corrosion, algae growth and reduction in performance due to "wear and tear"

yes most likely it wont be able to cope with the heat. Depending on what is the heat load, you can even chill a 6ft with low heat load.

Nope, I have 2x250watts MH in my 4x2.5x2.5 with eheim 1060 and laguna pump running externally. My atman chiller 0.5HP just barely chill the water temp at 0.2degrees/hr when the the lights are on and 1.5degrees/hr when the lights are off. If you are not going to run the eheim pumps externally, it would not be able to cope with the heat load.

It would be good enough if you can keep the water below 28degrees.

Car battery water should be diluted sulphuric acid. The accuracy of yr pH pen depends on the calibration, if you try to cut corners on calibration, the pH measurement will not be accurate.

Yr first 2 compartments will produce alot of nitrate

Most likely it turned anaerobic (lack of oxygen), placing it in the open waters and with good circulation, the black stuff would disappear.

That is normal for the cycling period, the diatom (brown algae) will die off after their food source (silicates) were used up.

you can use those filtration sponge or wool to cushion the pump

I connected a external thermostat for my atman chiller also as it will kick in when there is a 0.5 degrees increase. Now the chiller will run for 20mins for every 2 hours with a dif of 1.5degrees

you can either use a overflow box by IAN or get yr tank drilled.