kareen

Anything else u've change? If not, then likely the cause.... 14k or 20k bulb looks pleasing to our eyes but in term of spectrum, they are out of the sun's specification. My tank is near the balcony and about half of it have daily "sunbath".... It's true that I get a bit more algae from it but I do notice that corals seems to be 'happier' than those didn't. My MH bulb is 14k.....

Hint.... property agents....

ya... that's what I want, the most economical method for filteration.... trapping the big debris.... change it every 2- 4 weeks when I do my water change

I agree six lines is better if u want a pest remover... provided have no intention of keeping other species of wrasses. Oh btw, I don't think that 2 six lines introduce together can even co-exit together... that's the case for me in my 4 footer....

Live food promote more swimming activities in fries and probably better appetite.... Live food still stay there if left uneaten where dead food rots and lower the water quality even further....

Perhaps time is need to tell whether the 10k bulb bring back the fading colours.... Do give us some of your drawn conclusion in time, ok?

Duruso pipe for overflow or add something to dampen the noise. For my case, duruso pipe slow the rate of down flow that in the end, I used layers of filter floss... As for salt spray, use filter floss with string to wrap the pipe circumference so that the spray is very much trapped and flow down with the rest.....

With all the inputs.... I'll like to add something for you to ponder on.... 1) What do you intend to keep? SPS? LPS and soft corals? Remember LPS and soft corals generally require more dirty water and lesser flow. 2) Is your hardware (overflow, skimmer, etc) able to take 5000l/hr turnover? 3) What can you achieve with such high turnover rate? <= important think carefully in term of your situation....

Hi there! ya... ian's pic and jaken's pic looks different.... Look at the "air tube" in jaken's photo u know. Ian's photo seems like the venturi type of skimmer but not so sure about jaken's pic skimmer. Jaken, care to explain a little more to us about the unusuality of this skimmer?

A few questions.... Why add copper? Are the fish sick? If no, why add copper? If yes, even the fish are running into illness, what's the chances for the more sensitive inverts in your tank? Think thru' the questions and decide yourself....

Sorry.... more questions... If "lala" can be used, what about those blood cockles? Blood cockles are easily available in wet market and I believe they are sand burrower.... How to determine if they are healthy? What are the signs or symptons to look out for? Any suggustions? Eg. "breathing" - opening and closing their shells gently...

ok.... in your observation, how do those 'tua tao' fare? Do they look 'weaker' compared to the first day? How many do you put for your tank size? Lastly, do u think those selling in wet market one can be use?

ok.... if the ph is correct as indicated then I will ask myself.... Are there anything that could contribute to low ph? Points to note: The normal trend for pH in a tank is downward, or more acidic. The additions of acids into a tank will lower the pH in the tank water. These acids come from several sources, the primary ones being: 1) excess carbon dioxide (CO2) from respiration caused by lack of sufficient gas exchange, 2) nitric acid from biological filtration (nitrification), 3) organic acids from metabolic wastes. Respiration and metabolic wastes are a natural part of the ocean. The reason that sea water pH does not change is that sea water contains a number of chemicals, such as bicarbonate, calcium, carbonate, borate and hydroxide, which act as natural "buffers" that retard the drop in pH. okay... from the pic and facts given provided the ph is correct then the likely cause could be the 5 inch deep sand bed... But to remove that is not an easy task since there is inhabitants and disturbing the sandbed might not be wise unless the situation cannot be corrected. I will add some form of aerations and monitor the situation.....

that's true.... however, how the livestocks doing in your tank speaks better.... BTW I do not have full range of testkits... only Ca, KH and nitrate.. can't tell much anyway.... Do u think it will work for you? If I put a piece of food near the clam, the flock of greedy fish in my tank will eat it before the trick works....

How about adding some shells to your main tank like some deco on the sandbed instead in the sump? If your ph is low, the shells will get dissolve and then buffer your water.....

So to begin with, u already have coral chips.... then no need to get liao... Maybe faulty PH pen? Verify with some PH u know, distill water?

R they really useful the level of nitrate in your tank? Appreciate some sharing of your experiences....

In the pic, the shaft and impellor still together... Can it be seperate? If not, likely that is the cause of the spoil 'cos the impellor is struck now.

How's thing? R these what u guys bought? http://www.saltwaterfish.com/site_11_03/pr...oot_parent_id=4 Some correspondences in there.... http://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=152707

Oh really? I have two of them and have not seem them multiply... But I also, did not do anything to them...

From the pic, I still see the bone sticking out.... it may be too early to tell whether it will recover fully or not.... (good things happen slowly while bad things can happen in an instant) While the bone is still showing, algae might grow at that spot (unless nutrients are under control) and if there is any tang, it will nip there... stressing it further.... Good luck Salty_Creature... I do sincerely hope u succeed.

oh yes... one more thing to check on pump is... a smooth glide between the shaft and the cylinder shaped magnet. Any feel of frictional force indicate non perfect and best to be replaced.

Sorry... I didn't log in over the weekend... Well, probably u have got a pump from VanDream and throw this one away... but I just wana to add some more inputs. There will be no vibration felt when the impellor is not in the chamber 'cos nothing is rotating. When everything is re-assemble properly, test it under water. U may wish to adjust the little blue knot a little... If the motor still fail to function, probably there is a open circuit somewhere in the wiring... gone case. PS: parts swopping is also one tactic to debug where the fault lies...

but... before he only have 2 fish and now, probably 3... that make me rule out this possibility.... WAIT! What is your water exchange rate, flow, sandbed, etc, anything that could contribute to the buildup of CO2 in tank? PS: maybe some coral chips helps... PSS: I will recommend using proper marine buffers... rather than washing soda and baking soda... it's safer

Well, put it this way, what can we measure? Probably the common ones like the Ca, KH, PH and Mg... So, knowing these will it be enough? So, what's important is the outcome after using it.... at least for me as a user Probably there is some in the Net.... I did my very best to take but failed... I have to aim at the clam's mouth and also need the shrmp to be near the mouth....