bawater

Only if u have no choice but to go with canisters then, can't go wrong with ehiem-well built & lasting.+ the self prime function is a life saver on the newer models -Fluval another brand(if u can get a good deal) those other brands like resun/jebo/astro usually quite cheap- but personally i don't quite like drinking tank water when u do a manual prime.*suck*suck* canisters do well to process ammonia & nirites if u get the correct size- thus u end up with the final product of nitrates that u have to deal with. Although with a DSB & enough LR should balance out. Or frequent water changes(which u need to do if FO- cause u will end up overstocking) Also depends on what u use the canister for- mechanical/bio/chemical or all 3.- no problems on using it as mechanical just that have to clean often. i just use ceramic in a ehiem 2235(cause the ecco model are quite cheap). & because its setup as a bio filter i dun clean often(every 3mths). i run another 2213 with floss for mech- (that have to clean every 2-3wks). 1 internal filter for chemical filtration(if i need to use) & 1x powerhead for circulation.

Fredrick, They burn?, u washed them with bare hands?i haven't touched them when wet. i spoon them into bag & straight into powerhead attachment.(simple cheap internal filter without media)- i wait till they turn yellowish then i take them out(currently from sat to sat <8days>). the instructions says they useless once absorbed full capacity.weekly or fortnite if u don't have a high level,really depends on your tank- min is 4days as written on the bottle. That's why tanzy noted that its not a cheap way. i had the same trouble as phang by using those cotton bags. they rot(or broken down by bacteria) & break apart by the 7th day.- i changed to nylon. The nitrate stuff i saw at petmart was rechargeable? looks like phosguard but smaller & creamish in colour. Dunno if the stuff works. Cyano bloom still not gone but less now.

see BB i told u they were blue legged hermits. saw the feller walk straight pass me when i was catchin those tiny mangrove shrimps for my SH.Was Lucky to spot it. i have a personal ban on any hermits bigger than 1cm in my house-. reef janitors??more like reef menace to me!!. Even managed to create trouble in FO Tanks-they will rip at anything they can get their claws on-edible or not. coelacanth -and what u feed the jellyfish? live rotifiers?BBS? reborn has a big(maybe 1.5"-2")harlequin.$50 . also a single blue strained pregnant CBS(only one) $25 (filled with blue eggs)

this is the nearest source to us i've come across for starting cultures- its in aussie dollars so not much diff in conversion. www.marine.csiro.au/microalgae/supply contact e-mails are also listed there other than this its U.S souces-with higher freight charges. chanbi/phang, will pm u regards to the other products when ready.

phosphates is a major nutrient we talking abt. i'm using seachem phosguard- & the slime mat breaks up into patches within 2days. But....once the phosguard has absorbed all it can(to me it took abt 5 days)- the slime comes right back(not as bad as before but it still come back). keep on changing & keep phosphates low till it goes away. nitrates usually cause hair algae to bloom(but a few snails will keep it in check).-instant remedy is to do regular water changes.

it will shift until it finds a spot it likes. Not where u like it to be. Unless u glue it there. cream,purple tip? malu? sounds like a high lighting one to me. At only 2" it could be numerous kinds. If u could just search a database & look for it, just link the pic here. Easier. the center shouldn't have any tentacles, its where the mouth is. All internal organs are right under that mouth.The rest of the anemone is just tissue & water.

yep, them worms are living in a coral.- but first have to look after the coral. unless u just look for the coco types of tube worms- in their own calcareous tubes(usually white)- crown colours can come in white,yellow & reddish/orangy. be prepared to pay.$15-$30++ each on the other hand- fan worms(featherduster) in their mud & mucous tubes are only $1,come in brown,yellow crowns- avail everywhere. position them on the lower parts of the tank- can even stick them between rocks(they will filter the water for particulates to build their own tubes).

right on AT, was looking at those pearls to try- if u wanna split your current batch- let us know. wat abt small ziplock bags? i got some very small that can hold 10g/20g/30g/50g. chanbi also interested in the pearls & BB?? right chanbi? brineshrimp.direct starting to sell Live algae cultures this month(they still choosing the strains)- details on sales & description still not up on the site,that's why i'm waitting. Freezing of any living tissue containing water will usually kill it,In short the water crystals forming within the cells will rupture the walls- human,animal or plant !heh heh discovery ch. comes in handy!

FYI- Reborn got new fish stocks coming in today. corals maybe only a few today but mostly tomorrow. was there last nite- most Fish tanks clear & getting ready for today. There isn't any Q time do your best and try to choose healthy fishes if u buy- he distributes his stocks on FRI. i should be there abt 6.45pm

not a problem- just trace amounts. There's bound to be some in. Because its an enclosed system- it has nowhere to go- & after some time(i talking years) it may be a problem-just wondering. & using resins like Tanzy is the way to go- should forget my idea!it doesn't work in practical, trust me. I'm the one who has to clean the stinky tank i tested in.

i got 2 choc chips- but mine eat mysis & brineshrimp. Maybe my fault cause i started them, one day they were at the surface & i put brineshrimp into its mouth- then on it will seek,destroy & digest any leftovers from the fish. But have to say they now become good scavengers. Maybe i can recycle them if i ever get halequin shrimps - maybe not cause my CBS a little too big & might kill them. hungry hungry choco bluecarpet, won't the starfish die while its being eaten alive??

true, they polluted the water just by themselfs & stink to high heaven. - more harm than good, so all disposed. Never know till u try though.

could "Borrow" 100-500ml of current culture from AT maybe u can also try the reefworld stuff? maybe we got diff batches? i tried it 6 times. Honestly- by the packing i scared dodgy & it was just sludge off the side of some tub left in the sun! hopefully i'm wrong. Was told phytoplankton & went home,checked up on numerous phytoplankton strains........& there was no way of knowing what i bought. At least from brineshrimpdirect i get to choose from 4 strains. could be me but before this he had live zooplankton for sale & now come to think of it they looked like rotifiers! - recently they have combisan for sale in 250ml & not cheap. what is this may i ask anyone ?

Hon, that's dead stuff. i hoped there were a few live cells in it so tried culturing it & it just settles. Even tried leaving some in a small tank on the window to no avail. Which strain of algae- we will never know, but i know its the smaller strain cause its too small for brineshrimp instar I to feed on-usually spurilina size cells 20-50microns if i'm not wrong. i used it to feed rotifiers,who needs food 10microns and below & because its already dead it does tend to pollute the tank- which was why i kept getting crashes to BBS(cause they were starving)then ultimately my rotifiers(when i didn't change water weekly).

Nice:) watch out for the stinging corals & what goes around it. One of my leathers still recovering from a bubble sting.

u got PM- will put in an order by 1st week Dec. Already contacted them & freight to SG not a problem.

aquamart has the model without light, but typical aquamart- the price is abt $500. AT's model much cheaper. Phytoplankton reactor. zero cool- Marine rotifiers. These are abt a 1/3 of the size of bbs- just the right size for feeding corals with polyps. Had a one & only batch crash after 3mths- too costly to keep running. They have to be fed greenwater(aka phytoplankton) & usually enriched before feeding to the tank. i was thinking of ordering some algae based paste(like the kind from reefworld previously) from brineshrimp direct- a 8oz pack & freight is abt SGD$45.i'm still thinkin!!. If i'm not wrong this is the stuff underwater-world is using.

Just a thought, Tank crashes could happen due to heavy metals build up Heavy Metals are found in highest concentration in Shell fish(which is how most agencies measure levels for food safety & environment)- so just like using the NNR method of removing nitrates, i was wondering if shellfish in the sump or refugium would benefit in removing zinc/mercury/iron/boron/chromium......etc. although at the same time they also use up oxygen/food particulates/magnesium/calcium & a host of other trace elements. i was at the beach/magroves yesterday catching tiny shrimp for seahorses & came across cockles,barnacles in big numbers & of course hermits). i got a few cockles(u won't imagine how ugly they are), barnacles(they look kinda cool flickering in the water column),& clams. They are in a standalone 2ft with old tankwater so that i can see what kind of effects they have ,now i have to find specific test kits for metals so is my theory right...or somewhere within the right track? i was thinkin in the lines of nutrient export. Or maybe they will do more harm then good- if incorporated into an ecosystem!. But for sure not in the main tank.

morgan/tanzy, any thoughts on setting aside a small area for liverock?or linking up an individual tub. with the unstable supply over the last few months & the difficulty in the future months with more & more ppl starting marine- demand will be there. On the plus side- since u will have a moderate/high calc levels in the system(because of the corals/clams)- good enough for coralline growth. cost effectiveness can be acheived by using filtered seawater(which has to be filtered & skimmed for a week to get crystal clear) i tried- usually for volume usage. U may want to release LR at $5 or $6 per KG- thus income for the runnings of the farm & purchases of new corals to frag. While the LR seeds & grows, it also provide additional filtration. Curing is easy. if u guys need manpower- i'm free most weekends.

Tanzy's right, 1 or up to 4 fans will evaporate ur tank(not to mention salt creep)- how much? roughly with a fan on 24/7 u should see a drop of water level about 1cm. what this measures too?- most probably salinity from an original 1.022 to 1.026 after evaporation within a day. (although it will be gradual & most fishes can tolerate it- but when u top up- it will shoot back down immediately & that shortens the fishes lifespan) This was noted in my 2fts. Another thing to watch is PH, in smaller aquaria PH levels drop rather fast because u tend to overstock- * just use a buffer to keep it up. If u go with using a hang on- just becareful with the splashes & bubbles produced by hang-ons . salt water is nearly 50 times more conductive to electricity than freshwater. Remember that your lights will be there. It can be done- just that u need to know of the problems to overcome or prevent them. Small tanks Fish only are indeed simple- just don't overstock. If u say 4 fish, keep it at 4 fish- don't give in to the just one more syndrome(& crabs/shrimps also count as fish Headcount)

no they dun.....pretty whitish.Now i trying some extra 6500K's & that's really yellowish!temp.cause i got not enough 10K tubes. Current 10k's are aqualux Thanks shall see what nature has tonite.

ooooh ! then it looks ok. that the one u say 6000k? the single PL or the main double tube PL?

chiller for a 1.5ft?!! could just put the tank in the fridge & cut a small window for front panel of tank.

Anybody using the osram 36w PL tube? what's the diff- to aqualux? went to kelantan... & they only had osram daylight(i think 2690 lumens) afraid it would be too high in the red/orange spectrum cause they wouldn't try one for me. would have settled if they only showed me a tube switched on

another option- u could use an external canister filter(ehiem/fluval/jebo/resun)- $70 onwards This will allow u to create water movement & also keep the mech.head out of the water,keeping temp. down. Also to raise your lighting abt 4" off the water's surface helps temp. considering that canisters do the same job as internals- they do process ammonia & nirites very well- thus u end with a lump sum of nitrates- which u could think of having a deeper substrate(although 1.5ft won't give u much process area,but it will help). fill canister with sponge,floss & a bacteria medium(extra sponge/ceramic/zeolite or even crush coral). skip carbon in canisters cause u will have to change carbon often- Also a major factor with small tanks is to do very* regular water changes- even if its 2 ltrs every week.every bit helps.