oshkosh

Is the sand new or used?

upz

Any Pics of the T5?

Hi Stix, Having trouble with the PM. How long have you had the T5 and the tubes? I'm interested. Please reserve for me.

Hi. Interested in your T5. Does it take the HO tubes?

What is the length of the T5. Is it for a 3ft tank?

Yo Letdoit, I think you are jumping the gun here. First, a simple setup is possible. All you need is some sand, a few pieces of live rocks, a simple filtration system and you are off. Things you can keep in the setup? Hardy fishes only. Check out damsels, there are many to choose from. You want to keep corals with the above setup? Best of luck. Know that if you keep replacing dead and dying corals, the money will add up. As you are a newbie, I would suggest that you start up simple and just keep fish for the next few months. Move up to more delicate fishes and corals when you have had some experience. As for starting up the tank. It is good to cycle it first before you throw in any lifestock. What is cycling? Read up! I know you are quite excited about getting the tank going, but by the questions you ask, it shows a lack of any reading or research at your end. It's important that you have some foundation. Better get it soon. Cheers and good luck.

I migrated in 1.5 weeks. No visible damage to LS. How I did it? 1. Set up the new tank while the old is still running. Fill with new water and new sand. 2. Let the water cycle, and transfer a few pieces of LRs from the old to new tank. 3. Seed your new sand with some sand from your old tank. 4. Transfer some old filter media from your old to new tank. This should jump start the cycle and at the same time introduce bacteria to your new tank. The LRs and sand also help. 5. Depending on the size of your tank, transfer about 5% of the water between the old and new tank, daily. This serve to equalize the water parameters between the old and new tank. Also introduce bacteria in the old water. 6. Transfer your LRs over a few pieces at a time. 7. At the end of 1.5 to 2 weeks, test your water parameters, it should be ready for your transfer. 8. Move all LRs over and aquascape. 9. Move your corals and inverts. 10. Last but not least, catch and transfer your fast swimming fishes. Worked for me. You can give it a try.

The outrage is understandable but I feel that we unfairly heap all the blame on Mr. Durai. I feel that the board of directors of NKS should stand up and take half the responsibilities as well. They should not have approved this exorbitant pay package in the first place! Of course, they may think that this pay is ok, as reflected by the "Peanuts" quote from a member of the board. If this is how they really feel, they should have to guts to come out and make such a statement, and not let Durai take all the blame. I think that not only Durai will have to go for this, but the board of "Rich People" should consider stepping aside for people more cost conscious and more willing to make sure that the majority of the money goes to the people who needs this!

My fastest record for a 2.5 ft tank was 1.5 weeks. Shifting house then and did not have much time to start up the new tank. Nothing died from that move. Try to get an accurate reading with your test kit. If >80 you wait. If you are ready to cut some corners, your tank can actually begin to receive some hardy fishes like damsels/chromis. Generally these fishes can take nitrates of >40. Over time if you acclimatise your fishes, most fishes can survive in a high nitrate environment. I have tried this out on my blue tang and mandarin (unintentionally of course). Make sure that Ammonia and nitrites are low though. Get your nitrates to <20 before adding corals, they should survive in the short term but growth will be affected by the nitrate levels. Choose only hardy specimens. Don't try out with those requiring perfect water conditions. You can read up on them at www.liveaquaria.com In the meantime, try to achieve perfect water conditions. Happy reefing.

Anyone knows a good place?

Try a six line wrasse. Here's a link to a short write-up and a picture. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di....cfm?pCatId=375 Cheers

Hi Bro, How long is the casing?

Should be bleaching. No mistake about that. Not sure if you can turn the process around, but it's usually a sign that it's dying.

My blue tang did that before. It is a sure sign of itch. My tang survived without medication so I think that it is due to a combination of factors. 1. I feed my tang Ocean Nutrition pellets. The Formula 2 ones, with garlic. It builds up resistance. I don't think it is too late to try this. 2. I have cleaner shrimps in my tank. They do help the tang to pick off the white spots. 3. At this stage, keep your water parameters stable. Change usually stress fish and lower their immunity levels. If you want to try medication, do it in a quarantine tank. This way you don't contaminate your show tank with the medicine. Blue tangs don't have a good record for surviving itch. But I have had my blue tang for almost 2 years now, so I don't think its the end of the road for your tang. Good luck.

I started with a Nano. Believe me, a beginner should not try this. 1. It is difficult to keep the water parameters stable. A larger tank is definitely more forgiving. 2. Right mix of fish. Some fish tend to be very territorial. Put these in a nano with others, death is the usual result. If you want to press ahead with it. Restrict your Nano to a Fish only tank. Try to put in more LRs. These will creat the hiding places. Choose hardy fishes like chromis and damsels, and remember not to put in too many fishes.

Nice fish. Been looking for that. Anyone know where I can find one?

Lots of advice given, so take your time to digest. Do a bit a background reading and start off from zero again. Looks like you have all the equipment, so there is no need to spend any more money soon. Save them for the live rocks and the livestock. Remember to give your tank some time to cycle before adding any fish. Let your friends house your present fishes for a while. You will need at least 3 to 4 weeks for your water to stabilise. Remember to test for NO4, NO3, etc, before adding any fish. IMPORTANT RULE!! Don't medicate in your main tank. Copper is toxic and can remain in your sand and water for a long time. Set up a quarantine tank and play doctor there. Hope this helps.

Hi guys, Here's my 2 cents. It's not how much you spend. Its what you spend on and how to work within your budget. If you go by the thinking that you should start off with the best, ie. the biggest tank, MH, some super duper skimming, sump & filtration system, half a ton of LR, the most accurate test kits, the most delicious fish food and the most well received supplements, then having sufficient pocket money is one hell of a barrier to newbies. (Not applicable to those with silver spoons) Do you research, ask around, find out about equipment, livestock, etc. You'll find that you can get by with just a basic setup. If you only keep damsels, you can get by with a small tank, simple overflow filter, PL light, and a cheap test kit. (Of course its not so simple!). Along the way, when you have more money, you can improve things like putting in a skimmer, invest in a better test kit, etc. In short, start small and simple. Cultivate the hobby. Plan your upgrades according to the finances available. This way, you don't have to survive on bread and water. The most important thing to note is; If you have a simple setup, just stick to hardy fishes. Leave the more demanding livestocks like anemones, SPS, certain fishes out till you have better equipment to ensure their survival. Do enjoy your hobby. Cheers.

You are right of course. But would you prefer to submerge the LRs in tap water? I think this is the lesser evil. You will have a lot of dead nitrobacts, but there will be enough leftover to repopulate the LR. By the way I also agree that bristle worms are damn hardy creatures. Even with this method, those hiding deep in the LRs are bound to survive. If you really want them all gone, take marcvelous' advise, Clorox your LRs. Cheers.

Since you are still cycling your tank, just turn off your pump for a day or 2. The worms will come out when the water gets stale. My maid turned off my pump one morning. When I got back from work at night, most of the inhabitants of my tank died and the bristle worms also came out of their hidey holes.

Stick to salt mix. At least you can control the SG of your water. As for the sea water from around the Singapore coast. I wouldn't trust the cleanliness.

It's ok. Some tanks even do without skimmer. Regards.

Don't take the chance. A rotting anemone can cause your ammonia levels to spike. If you have a hospital tank, you can try reviving it there. The size of your tank will determine how fast the ammonia reach critical levels. So you may need to work it out quickly. Regards.

Recommended : Chromis (peaceful and hardy). Damsels (hardy and aggressive). Definitely Not Recommended : Shrimps and Mandarin Fish for new tanks