jasment

carbon should never be placed in a fluidising equipment. as i've mentioned, the media is brittle and by fluidising, you cause them to knock against each other and break up causing carbon powder to flow into the sump. just have some in a mesh bag and put the bag in a high flow area in the sump and change it once or month or when you see that the water is yellowing..

hey mag, yup, if you set at 27.5, it means the chiller will stop running at 27.5. depending on what chiller you're using, it will kick in 1 -2 degrees from what you've set.. sorry mushie for diluting your thread...

your heading wrong lah!!!!!! not sps la!!!

hey mag, having your chiller set at a temp of 0.4 is very good albeit having the frequent kick in will definately harm your chiller and also cause more electrical surges.. means more money for PUB... please consider 1.5 to 2 degrees...

it might be quite a waste as charcoal and rowa exhaust at a different rate so when changing the media, you are wasting a bit, nevertheless, it is NOT good to fluidise carbon as the media is brittle and by fluidising, you cause them to knock against each other and break up causing carbon powder to flow into the sump,,, bad idea..

you must consider headloss, which is better with 1264..

i think you have to check it out, true octo doesn't branch; meaning you will never find a piece of coral with several "heads" of true octo.. more like frogspawn.. or branching octo..

regarding stands: just a casual note, metal, regardless stainless steel or wrought iron, painted iron or whatever, will rust in due time, but the trick is, to not expose the metal part of the stand, means clad the stand in wood, or marine ply which is better. though this is not exactly cheaper, but surely lighter. A 4' x 2' x 2' cabinet with hood will cost in the region of $900-1400 in chengai and depending on the laminate/veneer selected, but one with metal stand and marine clading will be about 15% cheaper, but please remember, it doesn't mean chengai is definately better, for shorter term use, like less than 5 years, cheaper alternative is to use kapor, which is pretty strong too. But the best option is actually have the tank on a metal stand, unbelievable but true, cos if you do a search on RC, most big tanks are on metal stand, with acrylic anti-rust coat and cladded with marine-ply. my 2 cents.

hi, i have a piece selling at 80, let me know if you're interested. anyway, bought from reefer here at $80 too, he used for 2 weeks, me never use. but just to let you know first, the pump is from HK, so no warranty but i've checked that it is not amongst those being recall..

i think southpaw has given plenty of great and good ideas above. of course, the best way is to have the chilled water back directly to tank. anyway, see if you can fixed this cos i fixed it myself.. alternatively, as southpaw has mentioned, about chilling the tank water instead of the sump water, separate as much as possible, in the last compartment, the chiller pump and return pump, put the out-put of the chiller pump directing it towards the return and it will definately help a little. as for the T-off, i guess you should look into it cos you'll save on 1 pump/space.. just that i think you should look into the best config rather the slightly more kick-ins cos the increase in cost is rather minimal compared to a not efficient set-up=waste of time and money and effort..

if you guys know where to search on local beaches, mangroves are free..

please do not do that. it is simple, you are feeding the lfs that is selling them. if nobody buys, then the lfs will not survive and no more such "cruelty" happening. not that i'm heartless, but i simply think that we should have responsibility in the things we do.

hi, i'm interested in the set, can i know when are the pics taken? PM me please, if you are inrterest to sell still, thks

wow.. for a small tank your equipment is good... actually, it is better not to fluidise carbon because carbon is britter and by fluidising them they will knock against each other and break down, thus leaving small carbon particles in the water which is not good. but nevertheless, you have 2 FR.. might as well...

if you use a pump to go through the FR and chiller, you might not have the best of the flowrate for the specific equipment, unless you can T-off somewhere..

some song?

huh... you won the tender then tell people you want to withdraw... waoh... cool..

sold, collected and thread closed.

hi, just to add: i suppose you do not have a shrimp eating fish in your collection. secondly, while releasing shrimps into the tank, you kind of have to let it climb slowly down the net and onto the rocks and slowly wherever they want to go cos they are not good with sudden change in water pressure.. hope this little info helps..

me! me! me! me! me! me! me! me! me! me! me!

theres AM at tanjong katong

ups

latest, just re-scape tank, cyna in sump liao, looking for buyer to pick up tomorrow. no delays and no bargains, $50.00, if not gone liao.. please PM me or post, collection at KATONG AREA, nearby can deliver, far delivery charges applies. thkx.

wow,, a denitrating outlet to your CR? thats expert control... a bit difficult but defintely do-able.. maybe someone with a denitrator and a CR can advise if theres any ill effect with this combo.. cool..