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Using way too many sockets...


wolfie
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Hey peepz...

my hobby is in danger... :cry:

any one haf any idea in reducin' the number of sockets used?

here are the followin' equipment I haf...

2 x e-ballast (each ballast is connected to 2 18W FLs)

2 x fan

2 x powerhead

1 x external canister

1 x airpump

I'm lookin' at combining both the e-ballast and the fan so tt they both need only 1 socket each. Is that possible? Pls pls help... :cry:

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Hello Professor Wolfie,

Show us a picture. Is it messy which you are concern or the safety aspect ?

More importantly is whether your single wall socket can tahan the amount of current drawn. If overdrawn, your circuit breaker will trip.

Limpc

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Thanks for ur fast reply...

It's the safety tt's concerned. My dad will phototstat electrical plans 4 me and I'll post it online.

Wat I can say is tt the current wall socket I'm using is in the same circuit as my TV, entertainment sys and piano... So my dad is (OVER) concerned about the safety aspect.

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TV and Entertainment systems suck quite a bit of amps but the current for your tank should be very low compared to them, so I won't worry.

If it is the number of sockets and you don't want to use multiplugs, if you have a lot of time get a control panel. Waterproof and neat (at least on the outside).

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Just a little note:

I still studying electrical eng.

- Each house has diff circuit for diff rooms/ levels.

- simply check tt circuit current drain doesn't exceed the circuit breaker ratings

simply calculations: Watts = 230 X I

a rough value : 13A can tahan 2990W

Just keep below this value, and don't switch on all at the same time . switch on 1 by 1.

Should be no problem for most houses, unless you have a $16K home entertainent system, with $20K projection/ plasma TV, surround sound system, special lightings +++++ all in the same room. :bow::bow::bow:

:whistle

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The panel is very simple to build. You can get all the parts at Sim Lim Tower.

You will need:

1) ABS plastic box

2) Switches (Depending on what you want, there are many colours and types to choose from)

3) Wire glands (for wires to go in and out of the box)

4) A bunch of suitable wires

Round holes are drilled in the plastic box to fit the switches and glands. The switches come in 2 parts that snap together (front and back). If you know a bit about electricity, then the wiring them up in a proper circuit shouldn't be a problem. I am not an electrician but yet I can still build it with some friends (not electricians too, just extra pairs of hands) in half a day and the wiring in my box is pretty complicated because of the many devices.

All I did was ask the shopkeeper at sim lim and they told me step by step how to put the thing together. Maybe you can get Robe to help you. :rolleyes:

First find out all the wattage of the electricals, then we can do some calculations.

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Smiley Zerocool: my dad wans to see calculations... haiz... how to proof to him?

This is kinda hard cos the rated watt of the equipment may not be the exact watt drain of tt equipment.... >>>>> a 150W TV, maybe using only 100W if you are not blasting the volume, or switching channels..

Just a rough guide only:

Each CB takes care all of the room socket outlet. roughly abt 4 pts. They are designed such tt it's ALMOST impossible to overload if you use them all.

Just see hwat you have in yr room, and add them all up and you get the rough current drain.

for my case, I have a computer, printer, chargers, 300W chiller, 6X18W FL, 1 canister, 1X36W and 1 fan. no problem.

Most of the time, small MH, and chillers are no problem. If you're scared can always follow AT and others and get an qualified electrician to add another CB just for your marine tank. Air cons no worry as they run from another specific 15A socket.

Just note the high drain equipment ard the house: washing machine, irons, Home entertainment systems

CKS: :paiseh::paiseh: only 2nd place :cry::cry:

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ok... I roughly get wat u say... ;)

but wat if the socket has been 'spilted'? ie: frm one bcome 2 sockets? it doesn't affect the curcuit rite? :blink:

Er... Dun really understand your question.... but look at it this way.....

The socket is actually liek a water hose: the current flowing is like the water in the hose.

The more you split the hose into smaller ones, the less water flow in the hose. If you try to force more water into the hose, then the hose will burst.

How many plugs do you have exactly?

>>>>> you say:

2 x e-ballast (each ballast is connected to 2 18W FLs)

2 x fan

2 x powerhead

1 x external canister

1 x airpump

For the way i see it, no problem! I have 150W MH and 150W chiller running from the same socket. these 2 are already much mor than the above items you mentioned.

I have a extention tt has 5 outlets. from these 5 outlets i have 3 more multi-pin adapter plug. no problem yet....

:whistle:whistle

If you really want to reduce the plugs.... you can get terminals from simm lim tower, and ling up the "L" and "N" yourself, then connect to a 3-pin plug. Do at yoru own risk.

For a tank to draw 2990W is really ALOT! even Phang's 1000W+ MH has trip his house yet.

So relax.

Worry more abt how to protect the socket from water splashes and drips...

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For my case, with MH, powerheads, return eheim pump from my sump, PH for skimmer, 6 fans and 2FL, they all originate from two powerpoints and has since increased to six. My dad is in the construction line and he got his electrician friends to do the wiring for me. According to him, it is ok leh... Seems like the amount of electricity coming into the flat doesn't really drop unlike in private semi-d or terrace house.

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I'm also concerned about my wirings. Right now I've got 12 plugs in 2 mains sockets, but they seem to be doing OK. Still, I'd rather get another 2 mains sockets installed onto the right side of my tank. Will the amperage limit still be 13A if I were to get 2 more mains sockets done?

Tanzy - the circuit panel sounds very good. Other than for aesthetic reasons, are there additional advantages to it? Also, if I were to use timers - put where? Now running 6 timers on the tank .... :sick::blink: Think it's time to get a controller module like the Medusa or Neptune etc. (Psst ... AT, you might want to add in a smiley icon that has $$ flying away! heh heh)

Thanks,

Hong Yee

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Dragongoby,

The box contains a lot of excess wiring and more importantly 4 large toroidal transformer for the Tunze Streams. It's good water proofing and safer with wet fingers. I think it looks better than multiplugs but still pretty ugly, best is still to have a room to hide it all.

6 is a lot of timers! For what? I have my timers for lights and ballasts on the shelf since I keep all unprotected electricals way above the water level. If you are very free, you can cut the holes into the boxes for the timers modules. A good controller to consider might be the IKS.

Wolfie,

Where's your eballast? Do they run hot? If they are in the cabinet, you can screw them to the top of the cabinet and with a drip loop, they are quite safe from water. Alternatively, which I feel is the better way, is to place all these non-waterproof stuff higher than the tank's water level, like on the shelf or screwed onto the back of a hood.

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  • 5 months later...

IMO, although our home socket is rated at 13A (i.e. 2990 watts), it does not mean they are safe to draw such high current.

Examples:-

1) Water heater and window air-con. These equipments are difinitely lower than 2990w, but hdb requires isolated 15A power point for them. If you hook them into a normal 13A point, you'll either have a trip or burning socket.

2) New Hdb flat has rule for pre-installed air-con point. If I'm not wrong, the compressor cannot be above 11-13A. But they're 15A point.

3) Electronic designer normally select components that is rated above the circuit requirement as far as cost allowed. Any electronic hobbist or student will know this.

I think I've read it somewhere. As a general guide, never exceed 70% of the rated power. i.e, don't exceed 2,093 watts (2990 * 70%) on a 13A point

One very important thing, use good quality multi-plug. Those cheap ones have very bad contacts which will create sparks and heat.

Just my 2 cents

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