SRC Member Froggy Posted October 19, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 19, 2007 The CL-280 i have is very quiet, and by controlling the pump rate you can control the kick in-out interval. I notice if i slow my flow rate, i can increase the length of time before it kick in and maintain or even decrease my chiller on time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted October 19, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 19, 2007 The CL-280 i have is very quiet, and by controlling the pump rate you can control the kick in-out interval. I notice if i slow my flow rate, i can increase the length of time before it kick in and maintain or even decrease my chiller on time. Did you install the temostat externally or original internally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member Froggy Posted October 19, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 19, 2007 Did you install the temostat externally or original internally? Original thermostat.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted October 19, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 19, 2007 Original thermostat.. So thats why you have these details. If you check properly, your temperature of chiller is not according to your tank. Original termostat in chiller is not accurate. If you install an external termostat, you will less kick in/out and real temperature shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member cowgum Posted October 19, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 19, 2007 jzt got my cl280...was amaze by e fact tat it runs when there is a temp diff of 1 degree... Unlike e cl650 wic runs only when temp diff by 2degree.... The reason for this is due to the fact that the cooling coil and the temperature sensor is all in one little heat exchanging reservoir. Therefore there is a relatively fast fluctuating temperature in the reservoir and this fluctuation increases as the power of the chiller increases (even though the reservoir gets bigger). My guess for Resun's solution is simply to increase the kick-in temp to 2 degrees above set temp for larger chillers. Theoretically, a slower flow rate through the chiller would mean faster fluctuation and faster kick-in/out. A faster flow rate would reduce temp fluctuation and have less kick-in/out. Not to forget how you place you inlet and outlet is also important. You should place inlet to chiller at the starting part of the sump and outlet towards the end of the sump. This is so that chilled water does not go back into the chiller, resulting in the chiller kicking out earlier than it should. Another case is also when your chiller flow rate is faster than your return pump. The same case as the above, where chilled water would return to the chiller. This not something special as return pumps usually experience large losses due to vertical height and elbows. Whereas water that flows from sump to chiller and back to sump experience much lesser loses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member marble Posted October 19, 2007 Author SRC Member Share Posted October 19, 2007 The CL-280 i have is very quiet, and by controlling the pump rate you can control the kick in-out interval. I notice if i slow my flow rate, i can increase the length of time before it kick in and maintain or even decrease my chiller on time. so bro,urs kick in oso within 1 degree diff??? HOw often does it kick in??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member cowgum Posted October 20, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 20, 2007 So thats why you have these details. If you check properly, your temperature of chiller is not according to your tank. Original termostat in chiller is not accurate. If you install an external termostat, you will less kick in/out and real temperature shown. Is buying an external thermostat really worth while? http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...=0entry692028 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member Froggy Posted October 20, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 20, 2007 So thats why you have these details. If you check properly, your temperature of chiller is not according to your tank. Original termostat in chiller is not accurate. If you install an external termostat, you will less kick in/out and real temperature shown. The temp shown on the internal thermostate and the actual tank temp is almost the same. Cant tell to the exact temp as the thermostate has no decimal placement. I set the desired temp to 26, so the kick in should be 28. In actual fact it kicks in abt 27.6-27-8 from the in tank thermometer. So i conclude its pretty close. When i set my flow rate to 1200L/H (using eheim 1250, at 1.2m height), the chill time is 8 mins and the interval is 12min. I also dont know why soo fast, as i'm using a 2ft x 1ft x 1ft tank with 48W T5. Currently toggling abt 3/4 open, the chill time is 5-6mins while the interval has extended to abt 20-30mins. Air con off, tank lights on. Some margin of error is expected.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member cowgum Posted October 20, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 20, 2007 What is the vertical height from Sump water to tank water? I suppose you connect from sump to chiller to tank rite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member Froggy Posted October 20, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 20, 2007 What is the vertical height from Sump water to tank water? I suppose you connect from sump to chiller to tank rite? No sump, chiller is at the bottom of my desk with my tank on the top. Height of desk 30inches. just measured to confirm height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted October 20, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 20, 2007 Is buying an external thermostat really worth while? http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...=0entry692028 well, I know you have a degree in NUS but certificate is something to get you into entry level. You must have experience in order to work better. Furthermore NUS cant teach you everything so experience is more vital provided if you know what is happening. If try an error type, pointless as learn nothing. Installing an external termostat of course better. Its cheap and you can have a more stable temperature with less kick in/out. this is experience and no lecturers can teach me this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member cowgum Posted October 21, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 21, 2007 Bro reeftask, hope you are not getting personal. Just sharing why i had so many calculations in my posts, not trying to hao lian abt NUS. I do agree than qualification is just one half, NUS is not one of the best uni IMO by the way. Care to share your experience you mentioned abt? I did not say installing an external thermostat is not better. There is performance vs cost. Having mentioned the cost, in terms of performance; 1)having the probe in the main tank is definitely better than in the chiller reservoir because the inhabitants in your tank are the subjects for controlling temp. There are variations in temp throughout the aquarium system and the most stable temp would be where there is most flow and volume of water.(the main tank) less variations = less kick in/out 2)Commercial thermostat has functions like setting kick in/out temp. These info are just my contribution and maybe wrong. You should make reason for yourself and decide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member kareen Posted October 22, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 22, 2007 well, I know you have a degree in NUS but certificate is something to get you into entry level. You must have experience in order to work better. Furthermore NUS cant teach you everything so experience is more vital provided if you know what is happening. If try an error type, pointless as learn nothing. Installing an external termostat of course better. Its cheap and you can have a more stable temperature with less kick in/out. this is experience and no lecturers can teach me this. Hi reeftask! Care to share how to connect an external thermostat to a chiller with some diagrams and pictures? It may come handy to many of the reefers here.... Or a link or something.... Quote Greeting Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique) Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted October 22, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 22, 2007 Hi reeftask! Care to share how to connect an external thermostat to a chiller with some diagrams and pictures? It may come handy to many of the reefers here.... Or a link or something.... The termostat has 2-wire. Open the front cover which holds the filter mesh too. You will see there is 2 connectors and the compressor unit. One is bigger and white in colour with several thicker cables. Another is a smaller black connector which is connected to a 2 core cable. This 2 core cable is quite thin, red and white. This cable is hanging and you can see both ends are from top sides. Unplug this small connector and you can see one side is havings 2 pins and the other side has holes which are female pins. Plug in your termostat cables to the female pins and cover up back. Make sure the cover is not pressed against the new termostat. There is a hole at the bottom at the cover, use that for the termostat to go out into your sump. Thats all. For further info: The female pins are connected to the controller and the male pins are connected to the termostat internally. My termostat are soldered so its plug and play. Moreover my termostat is German-made and had been used for 4 yrs, still good accuracy. Furthermore this termostat is used for food industry on pH4 to pH10 so its safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member kareen Posted October 23, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 23, 2007 The termostat has 2-wire. Open the front cover which holds the filter mesh too. You will see there is 2 connectors and the compressor unit. One is bigger and white in colour with several thicker cables. Another is a smaller black connector which is connected to a 2 core cable. This 2 core cable is quite thin, red and white. This cable is hanging and you can see both ends are from top sides. Unplug this small connector and you can see one side is havings 2 pins and the other side has holes which are female pins. Plug in your termostat cables to the female pins and cover up back. Make sure the cover is not pressed against the new termostat. There is a hole at the bottom at the cover, use that for the termostat to go out into your sump. Thats all. For further info: The female pins are connected to the controller and the male pins are connected to the termostat internally. My termostat are soldered so its plug and play. Moreover my termostat is German-made and had been used for 4 yrs, still good accuracy. Furthermore this termostat is used for food industry on pH4 to pH10 so its safe. It will be great if there is a picture showing... at least on yours la.... 'cos with the above, ones will not have the required confident to do the operation..... Quote Greeting Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique) Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted October 23, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 23, 2007 It will be great if there is a picture showing... at least on yours la.... 'cos with the above, ones will not have the required confident to do the operation..... If post picture will directly affect the sponsor here. Better not. If you guys want to learn, come to my place and I will show you. Only 1 min to do everything. Only 5 seconds to see in my place. Or if you sell me a coral at very cheap price, (only if I want to buy) I will come to your place and show you how its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member cowgum Posted October 23, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 23, 2007 Wow! Amazing. Where did you get the thermostat from? Where did do you place the thermostat in your tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted October 23, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted October 23, 2007 Wow! Amazing. Where did you get the thermostat from? Where did do you place the thermostat in your tank? I ordered it from germany. As the courier cost is high, I ordered 10pcs and some other parts to breakdown the courier cost. I place it in the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member reeftask Posted November 14, 2007 SRC Member Share Posted November 14, 2007 Guys who are keen to be those termostat traders, please dont pm me. I am not doing termostat trading here. Just help out someone who needs urgently when his/hers termostat damaged. If you want to purchase and sell termostat, dont look at me, but look at yourself. I am not your bridge to cross the river. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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