how to increase efficiency of Sulfur denitrator

[dachkie]

Hi , could any1 advise me on what i can do to max out the efficiency of my sulfur denitrator?

currently i am running 1 RM denitrator with 1kg of beads on my 1000l tank , i managed to reduce my N03 to 25ppm from over a 100ppm

but it seem to have stopped at that, been a week already yet it is not reducing any more than 25ppm.

would toping up more beads help?

when topping up there is bound to be air when the denitrator is open, will all the anerobic bacteria be kill off

is there a max level i should top up to? the generally rule seems to be 1kg for 1000l of water

what will happen if i go more than that?

will too much sulfur cause negative effect?

or should i get 1 more denitrator instead?

hoping some1 can point me in the right directions

[MachoMarlin]

Technically, if you are going by those colour test kits (estimates) yes it is quite possible. If you are thinking of realistic 0ppm, that is almost impossible if you have any forms of livestocks, vertebrates and invertibrates, unless, you can stop them from producing waste?

[dachkie]

of course what is being shown on the test kits, anyway my bio load is not considered high , only got arn 10 fishes in my tank, the 3 big waste producers are the tangs, other then them the rest all tiny little fishes

[[V]tEc]

of course what is being shown on the test kits, anyway my bio load is not considered high , only got arn 10 fishes in my tank, the 3 big waste producers are the tangs, other then them the rest all tiny little fishes

seriously is not ur bio load that is causing this. u did not do a proper cycling, that the reason y....i have 22 fishes n i can maintain my no3 at 5 to 10 w/o denitrator

[arcanehacker]

Hi , could any1 advise me on what i can do to max out the efficiency of my sulfur denitrator?

currently i am running 1 RM denitrator with 1kg of beads on my 1000l tank , i managed to reduce my N03 to 25ppm from over a 100ppm

but it seem to have stopped at that, been a week already yet it is not reducing any more than 25ppm.

would toping up more beads help?

when topping up there is bound to be air when the denitrator is open, will all the anerobic bacteria be kill off

is there a max level i should top up to? the generally rule seems to be 1kg for 1000l of water

what will happen if i go more than that?

will too much sulfur cause negative effect?

or should i get 1 more denitrator instead?

hoping some1 can point me in the right directions

Firstly how long have you had this denitrator? The efficiency of a denitrator is the tuning of the drip rate. And it really takes a while for it to kick in. Esp for sulphur ones, it usually takes months.

I have over 50 LS in my 4ft and the Denitrator (NF511) is controlling well. ~ 5 ppm.

[dachkie]

its been running for around 3 weeks,

at 1st it took less than 1 week to drop to 25ppm, din know the last 25ppm is so tough, anyway last nite spent a few hours tuning again, looks like i managed to increase the flow to a slow trickle and its still maintaining non detectable no2 and no3 from the output , but once the no3 from the main tank water is reduce to undetectable . the food source (nitrate) will be minimal, so what should the next step of the denitrator be? take out half the beads and store it? or just leave it running as it is?

[arcanehacker]

its been running for around 3 weeks,

at 1st it took less than 1 week to drop to 25ppm, din know the last 25ppm is so tough, anyway last nite spent a few hours tuning again, looks like i managed to increase the flow to a slow trickle and its still maintaining non detectable no2 and no3 from the output , but once the no3 from the main tank water is reduce to undetectable . the food source (nitrate) will be minimal, so what should the next step of the denitrator be? take out half the beads and store it? or just leave it running as it is?

3 weeks is till too soon.. the bacteria in there is trying to stabilize.. Mine took more than a month to kick in.. few months to really stabilize.

Also since now it stays at 25, slow down the drip. Measure constantly and adjust. Till you see its 5ppm or close to. Usually 1- 2 drips per sec roughly. Stay there.. measure bi-weekly or monthly to ensure its not too slow. 0 for too long is a risk because you don't know whether its too slow. This is my method and its good for me..

There is a better way of controlling.. search the forum.. there should be few posts on it.. its about decreasing, measure, then increasing, measure, then decreasing again.. its a sure way of getting close to 0 ppm.. I didn't do that cos its too much monitoring. Then again its only for the initial phase.

[dachkie]

3 weeks is till too soon.. the bacteria in there is trying to stabilize.. Mine took more than a month to kick in.. few months to really stabilize.

Also since now it stays at 25, slow down the drip. Measure constantly and adjust. Till you see its 5ppm or close to. Usually 1- 2 drips per sec roughly. Stay there.. measure bi-weekly or monthly to ensure its not too slow. 0 for too long is a risk because you don't know whether its too slow. This is my method and its good for me..

There is a better way of controlling.. search the forum.. there should be few posts on it.. its about decreasing, measure, then increasing, measure, then decreasing again.. its a sure way of getting close to 0 ppm.. I didn't do that cos its too much monitoring. Then again its only for the initial phase.

been researching some of the post on SD, they seem to be saying increasing the flowrate til the output measures a little no2 and no3, and slow it down to get 0 reading, because too slow and i get a very bad rotten egg smell which is sulfur hydroxide rite, which i supos is bad if too much of that goes into the tank.

my no3 seem to have drop to slightly above 10 and below 25ppm

the colour of the no3 test seem to have lighten, but now it is in between. 10 and 25.

PS: i hate reading test kits

[arcanehacker]

been researching some of the post on SD, they seem to be saying increasing the flowrate til the output measures a little no2 and no3, and slow it down to get 0 reading, because too slow and i get a very bad rotten egg smell which is sulfur hydroxide rite, which i supos is bad if too much of that goes into the tank.

my no3 seem to have drop to slightly above 10 and below 25ppm

the colour of the no3 test seem to have lighten, but now it is in between. 10 and 25.

PS: i hate reading test kits

Who enjoys?

If there is a reliable monitor for every parameter test, I would have got them.. So far the only Nitrate ones suck. Calcium one probe works the same thoery with the nitrate one so it sucks as bad..

[[V]tEc]

been researching some of the post on SD, they seem to be saying increasing the flowrate til the output measures a little no2 and no3, and slow it down to get 0 reading, because too slow and i get a very bad rotten egg smell which is sulfur hydroxide rite, which i supos is bad if too much of that goes into the tank.

my no3 seem to have drop to slightly above 10 and below 25ppm

the colour of the no3 test seem to have lighten, but now it is in between. 10 and 25.

PS: i hate reading test kits

yesterday went shopping at ah beng ar. purple ride spotted at ah beng shop

[dachkie]

Who enjoys?

If there is a reliable monitor for every parameter test, I would have got them.. So far the only Nitrate ones suck. Calcium one probe works the same thoery with the nitrate one so it sucks as bad..

hanna has a multi phototester but no idea good or and never really find out if it can test for what parameters,

so far i using the po4 photometer, pretty accurate

[dachkie]

yesterday went shopping at ah beng ar. purple ride spotted at ah beng shop

was there for only 10 mins also kena caught ar lol, u never come and look for me, was hunting for fire shrimps