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dachkie
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Decided to start a new thread to track down the building of my new tank, that will be delivered this week before Hari Raya,

The birth of this new tank was decided after i consulted a FengShui master to take a look at my place , my current tank was sitting on the worst location in the house and it's call a JUEMING sector, and i should stop it and if i want to have a tank i should shift it to the North of the house to the Sheng Chi sector. too bad reefing is a hobby i cant give up alot i have tried many times and always come back with a vengence since i started in 2003 ( stupid hobby )

After my consultation , i was battling with myself for quite awhile if i should shift my tank to the new location which will be alot of work , those that came to my place before knows why ( my place is a mess )

or to make a new tank but my ideal tank is a full acrylic 4x4x2 which due to budget constraints that would not be possible.

After weeks of asking myself what i want to do and going around sourcing for various kinds of quotes and different ideas i decided that i will get a new tank because i never did like the look of my current tank's side IOS.

After deciding on getting a new tank i had to decide on what is next to come, a 1 sided full partition tank with Chenggai stand ( will take up 1/4 of my living room space ) or a Chenggai cabinet tank ( dont look as nice and more expensive then a partition tank ) . Finally decided on a 2 sided view cabinet tank for space and ease of maintenance.

Finally the last decision i had to make was to engage the creators of the new home for my Livestocks. the sourcing part was painful as i never like being ripped off but the sad part is i dont understand why there are still so many people who wants to make more at the expense of not being able to make at all but anyways , i went ahead to design and built my tank and cabinet seperately. The Full Red Glossy Chenggai cabinet was built at a furniture maker in defu lane who was very accomodating to my requirements , i have to agree i was pretty troublesome as i wanted a very strong and steady stand and yet at a decent price.

Then due to another new tank thread here in SGR, led me to Alantic Glass Industry to ask for their quotes and i have to agree , the price given was really competitive and i was lucky to see a big tank on their table being assembled and i was very impress with the neat and thick silicon work.

So since i cant bear to part with the money for a full Acrylic tank, i went for a 2 sided low iron 5 x 2.5 x 2 with EOS with a 4 x 1.8 x 1.5 multi compartment sump just like my current acrylic sump that i am still using , but since i gonna make a new tank then might as well have everything new.

Also visited them yesterday and my tank is already 80% done sitting on the big table in their shop , so anyone who are interested can pop over to them to take a look before it gets delivered to me this coming Thursday. another amazing thing i found out about this tank maker is that the tank joining is done by non other then the little lady at the shop, i only got it know about it after i asked why i never see any other worker at the shop. no wonder the silicon work is so neat and nice , ladies tend to be more delicate and more attentive to their task and of course she was also very nice and listened to my request for a super strong tank.

There are pics taken but i can only upload them next week as i do not have the cable for my phone to connect to my pc with me at the moment .

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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would like to ask fellow reefers who had done a tank shifting before,

i am planning to cook my current liverocks to clear them off detritus and hopefully any PO4 that has been binded to them , what is the fastest method that i can use because due to equipments i do not have the luxury of cooking them for months which would be ideal, after my tank arrive i will be able to fill in the water and then leave it for 1 week because i will be out of town

what will be the potential problems that i will face?

if not i also have a 4x3x2 FGT waiting to be use for any unforseen circumstances

another question is i am thinking of using pvc in between the base of the glass and the rocks to prop the rocks up to prevent dead spots , what size pvc pipes would be ideal?

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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Decided to start a new thread to track down the building of my new tank, that will be delivered this week before Hari Raya,

The birth of this new tank was decided after i consulted a FengShui master to take a look at my place , my current tank was sitting on the worst location in the house and it's call a JUEMING sector, and i should stop it and if i want to have a tank i should shift it to the North of the house to the Sheng Chi sector. too bad reefing is a hobby i cant give up alot i have tried many times and always come back with a vengence since i started in 2003 ( stupid hobby )

After my consultation , i was battling with myself for quite awhile if i should shift my tank to the new location which will be alot of work , those that came to my place before knows why ( my place is a mess )

or to make a new tank but my ideal tank is a full acrylic 4x4x2 which due to budget constraints that would not be possible.

After weeks of asking myself what i want to do and going around sourcing for various kinds of quotes and different ideas i decided that i will get a new tank because i never did like the look of my current tank's side IOS.

After deciding on getting a new tank i had to decide on what is next to come, a 1 sided full partition tank with Chenggai stand ( will take up 1/4 of my living room space ) or a Chenggai cabinet tank ( dont look as nice and more expensive then a partition tank ) . Finally decided on a 2 sided view cabinet tank for space and ease of maintenance.

Finally the last decision i had to make was to engage the creators of the new home for my Livestocks. the sourcing part was painful as i never like being ripped off but the sad part is i dont understand why there are still so many people who wants to make more at the expense of not being able to make at all but anyways , i went ahead to design and built my tank and cabinet seperately. The Full Red Glossy Chenggai cabinet was built at a furniture maker in defu lane who was very accomodating to my requirements , i have to agree i was pretty troublesome as i wanted a very strong and steady stand and yet at a decent price.

Then due to another new tank thread here in SGR, led me to Alantic Glass Industry to ask for their quotes and i have to agree , the price given was really competitive and i was lucky to see a big tank on their table being assembled and i was very impress with the neat and thick silicon work.

So since i cant bear to part with the money for a full Acrylic tank, i went for a 2 sided low iron 5 x 2.5 x 2 with EOS with a 4 x 1.8 x 1.5 multi compartment sump just like my current acrylic sump that i am still using , but since i gonna make a new tank then might as well have everything new.

Also visited them yesterday and my tank is already 80% done sitting on the big table in their shop , so anyone who are interested can pop over to them to take a look before it gets delivered to me this coming Thursday. another amazing thing i found out about this tank maker is that the tank joining is done by non other then the little lady at the shop, i only got it know about it after i asked why i never see any other worker at the shop. no wonder the silicon work is so neat and nice , ladies tend to be more delicate and more attentive to their task and of course she was also very nice and listened to my request for a super strong tank.

There are pics taken but i can only upload them next week as i do not have the cable for my phone to connect to my pc with me at the moment .

Wow!!! Very keen to see your new tank and setup.... Subscribed!

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haha hopefully it be nice, i haven decided on the style of rockscape yet but most probably do the boomerang style so i can hide my ts24 behind, i want to see nuttin that is not natural in this tank

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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bro,when u picking up the coral rx? try to make yourself free forawhile, can discuss with u more and what u will be facing.

anyway nv go 3ft width?

i call u ltr, going clementi before vivo, ya decided not to go 3ft because i not doing 3 sided view like the current tank

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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  • SRC Member
would like to ask fellow reefers who had done a tank shifting before,

i am planning to cook my current liverocks to clear them off detritus and hopefully any PO4 that has been binded to them , what is the fastest method that i can use because due to equipments i do not have the luxury of cooking them for months which would be ideal, after my tank arrive i will be able to fill in the water and then leave it for 1 week because i will be out of town

what will be the potential problems that i will face?

if not i also have a 4x3x2 FGT waiting to be use for any unforseen circumstances

another question is i am thinking of using pvc in between the base of the glass and the rocks to prop the rocks up to prevent dead spots , what size pvc pipes would be ideal?

I am cooking my rocks now. :)

cooking of rocks should be like 1-2 months. Well i am using deadrocks so not much of the issue.

SeanT cooking of LR

Cooking of rocks should be done @ no lights. Your main tank will expose the LR to light so its not really encourage to cook rock in tank. And u need to drain of the salt water after 1-2 wks of cooking. therefore i strongly recommend using buckets for it and place near the toilet.

I am just an average FR (fish reefing) writer. If you like my FRs, please upz my points.

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I am cooking my rocks now. :)

cooking of rocks should be like 1-2 months. Well i am using deadrocks so not much of the issue.

SeanT cooking of LR

Cooking of rocks should be done @ no lights. Your main tank will expose the LR to light so its not really encourage to cook rock in tank. And u need to drain of the salt water after 1-2 wks of cooking. therefore i strongly recommend using buckets for it and place near the toilet.

Yo bro! :D

If you want fast cooking, leave the rocks in a higher temperature. I don't mean 100 degrees Celsius kind. I mean like 35-45 degrees kind. Something warm for the bacteria to get more active and they have a higher metabolism rate.

Another way to put your tank in darkness is.... BUY those black plastic bags and cover your whole tank in it for months! haha. Quite an extreme way but I have seen reefers using that method to combat cyanobacteria <_<

Happy Reefing,

Marc J.

Happy Reefing,

Marc J.

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bro what wrasses you intending to keep?

lol I know at least one of them u wanna get... :)

ya your wrasse haha y now u dont want to decom lah lol

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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I am cooking my rocks now. :)

cooking of rocks should be like 1-2 months. Well i am using deadrocks so not much of the issue.

SeanT cooking of LR

Cooking of rocks should be done @ no lights. Your main tank will expose the LR to light so its not really encourage to cook rock in tank. And u need to drain of the salt water after 1-2 wks of cooking. therefore i strongly recommend using buckets for it and place near the toilet.

please correct me if i am wrong , cooking of lr is to take out the po4 from what i understand , my current tank po4 is at 0.015 measured with dd low phosphate test kit

if i reduce the po4 to undetectable and keep it there with very religious rowaphos change and dose lanthanum cloride, will it also achieve the remove po4 results from the recommended cooking method

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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Haha if you find someone interested to buy my tank then I will letgo my wrasses la... Otherwise I also cannot sell my fishes.

Btw if u r just gonna transfer ure rocks, still need to cook?

If he doesn't want his rocks to leech PO4 then cooking the rocks is probably the only method he can use.

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

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please correct me if i am wrong , cooking of lr is to take out the po4 from what i understand , my current tank po4 is at 0.015 measured with dd low phosphate test kit

if i reduce the po4 to undetectable and keep it there with very religious rowaphos change and dose lanthanum cloride, will it also achieve the remove po4 results from the recommended cooking method

imho your water do not have much po4 doesn't equate to your lr wont leech po4 in the future. Well it may be trapped in the lr esp when the coraline algae cover it. if u want cure LR. i may have some spare for you let say @ end of dec but its wont be sufficient for your tank. if u are able to spare some $. why not buy some deadrocks or lr then cook it now then use the cook rocks for your new tank.

ofcoz this means u super kiasi afraid of po4 leeching.

I am just an average FR (fish reefing) writer. If you like my FRs, please upz my points.

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Yo bro! :D

If you want fast cooking, leave the rocks in a higher temperature. I don't mean 100 degrees Celsius kind. I mean like 35-45 degrees kind. Something warm for the bacteria to get more active and they have a higher metabolism rate.

Another way to put your tank in darkness is.... BUY those black plastic bags and cover your whole tank in it for months! haha. Quite an extreme way but I have seen reefers using that method to combat cyanobacteria <_<

Happy Reefing,

Marc J.

i never deploy water heater for that.. i believe the temp shld be around 28-30 degrees celcsisu the most and more importantly its DARK.... absence of lights with lots of micro bubbles from the air pump

I am just an average FR (fish reefing) writer. If you like my FRs, please upz my points.

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i think i will be cooking 50 - 80%% of the rocks , i got a few pcs of artificial rocks so those will be used to stack the corals for now,

so i supos the whole idea of the absense of lights is to kill of the coralline algae ?

then what are the micro bubbles for?

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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Micro bubbles for aeration purposes maybe? The only thing I know is you need strong circulation to ensure there are no dead spots so tt all live rock remains live.

i read abt the need of using air pump. the purpose is to prevent dead spots. well maybe you are right. air bubble is for the insignificant bacterial growth

I am just an average FR (fish reefing) writer. If you like my FRs, please upz my points.

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i read abt the need of using air pump. the purpose is to prevent dead spots. well maybe you are right. air bubble is for the insignificant bacterial growth

i was thinking of using a wavemaker for circulation instead , unless the air bubbles are to go into the pores of the LRs to bring out the dirt?

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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i was thinking of using a wavemaker for circulation instead , unless the air bubbles are to go into the pores of the LRs to bring out the dirt?

u made me think of bubble bath. well actually just need to agitiates the surface of the water and keep water oxygenated. -> from the SeanT.

I am just an average FR (fish reefing) writer. If you like my FRs, please upz my points.

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u made me think of bubble bath. well actually just need to agitiates the surface of the water and keep water oxygenated. -> from the SeanT.

lol coz i got wavemaker but no spare air pump , the only spare air pump i got is a resun ozoniser and i cant use that for this purpose lol

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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u made me think of bubble bath. well actually just need to agitiates the surface of the water and keep water oxygenated. -> from the SeanT.

heh think I know why need air bubbles le. Coz if you keep the container covered (dark), then oxygenation won't be enough.

Otherwise, normal surface agitation will keep the water well oxygenated.

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i never deploy water heater for that.. i believe the temp shld be around 28-30 degrees celcsisu the most and more importantly its DARK.... absence of lights with lots of micro bubbles from the air pump

hahaha, no need water heater bro. Just our normal Singapore temperature will get the effect alr (: and our ambient temperature is always "agar" around 26 degrees. but if you want faster, seriously, a higher temperature and nahh, won't kill the bacteria or animals inside. they can tahan the temperature. I still get bristleworms crawling out of my rocks after cooking.

In US, they dump their rocks in their car garages and leave them there to rot and stuff. Imagine doing that in the summer heat! We shouldn't be too kind to our rocks which are laden with nutrients! :D

Air pump is for aeration. Some rocks are porous in the inside yet looks thick on the outside. So idea is to provide ample oxygen to keep the bacteria within the rock healthy. Air pump is a secondary. Strong water circulation is primary and topmost priority! (:

Anyway, our beloved Coralfarm has been employing this method of curing their Fiji liverocks long long time ago. The idea is the same and there's certainly no chiller etc around to keep the water temperature stable. They just let everything take its natural course. They also took it to a higher level of curing by sitting the rocks in the open air then spray water to the rocks, in a way the detrius/unwanted stuff will follow the water trail out of the rocks to the bottom of blue tub as silt. Impressive uh? I read about this in Chingchai's tank thread. Europeans have been doing this for years alr :D

Hope you all understand what I am saying. I typed this in 3 mins! :S

And sorry bro. dachkie. OFFTOPIC! :S

back to your tank! :D

Happy Reefing,

Marc J.

Happy Reefing,

Marc J.

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hahaha, no need water heater bro. Just our normal Singapore temperature will get the effect alr (: and our ambient temperature is always "agar" around 26 degrees. but if you want faster, seriously, a higher temperature and nahh, won't kill the bacteria or animals inside. they can tahan the temperature. I still get bristleworms crawling out of my rocks after cooking.

In US, they dump their rocks in their car garages and leave them there to rot and stuff. Imagine doing that in the summer heat! We shouldn't be too kind to our rocks which are laden with nutrients! :D

Air pump is for aeration. Some rocks are porous in the inside yet looks thick on the outside. So idea is to provide ample oxygen to keep the bacteria within the rock healthy. Air pump is a secondary. Strong water circulation is primary and topmost priority! (:

Anyway, our beloved Coralfarm has been employing this method of curing their Fiji liverocks long long time ago. The idea is the same and there's certainly no chiller etc around to keep the water temperature stable. They just let everything take its natural course. They also took it to a higher level of curing by sitting the rocks in the open air then spray water to the rocks, in a way the detrius/unwanted stuff will follow the water trail out of the rocks to the bottom of blue tub as silt. Impressive uh? I read about this in Chingchai's tank thread. Europeans have been doing this for years alr :D

Hope you all understand what I am saying. I typed this in 3 mins! :S

And sorry bro. dachkie. OFFTOPIC! :S

back to your tank! :D

Happy Reefing,

Marc J.

lol i'm fine with off topic, today i took pic of my cabinet frame, cabinet maker say confirm will be ready latest this thursday, so you guys will know what i will be buzy with this long weekend

i really want to start cooking the rocks today but cant find the energy to make water, just reached home after a long long day

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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