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Water to use


lcf425
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I was wondering if we can use any distill water to make our salt water or is there any good suggestions ??

When you talk about distilled water are you talking about boiling your water or buying boiled water. if you read the salt container it says to use RO water, the reason is RO water has a PH of 6+ well below neutral 7.0, the acidity help to break the salt down, the salts buffer is designed to work with acidic water to bring the level to 8.2-8.4

See one companies instruction:

Mixing Directions:

Dissolve 1/2 cup of Sea Salt Mix in one gallon of water (.29 lb per gallon). For best results, use de-chlorinated de-ionized or best if used reverse osmosis water.

Briefly agitate salt solution with a small pump.

Measure salinity (specific gravity) with a hydrometer. Adjust salinity (increase or decrease) to the desired level. This can be done by adding salt or water, respectively.

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When you talk about distilled water are you talking about boiling your water or buying boiled water. if you read the salt container it says to use RO water, the reason is RO water has a PH of 6+ well below neutral 7.0, the acidity help to break the salt down, the salts buffer is designed to work with acidic water to bring the level to 8.2-8.4

See one companies instruction:

Mixing Directions:

Dissolve 1/2 cup of Sea Salt Mix in one gallon of water (.29 lb per gallon). For best results, use de-chlorinated de-ionized or best if used reverse osmosis water.

Briefly agitate salt solution with a small pump.

Measure salinity (specific gravity) with a hydrometer. Adjust salinity (increase or decrease) to the desired level. This can be done by adding salt or water, respectively.

so where do i get RO from?? is it the same as distill water??

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Hi bro,

Boiling water or boiled water is not distilled water. Distillation involves evaporation of water free from impurities and condenses in a separated container. The impurities will remain in the vat used to boil the water. When we boil the water, all impurities remains in the water.

Distilled Water

De-ionised water is using Ion exchange media to trap impurities in order to get clean water. Some will even add Reverse Osmosis process into the DI stage to have better results. RO membrane to remove particulates where by DI to further removes dissolves impurities.

DI Water

Each of the above have its own pros and cons, you may want to weigh them before committing.

However, if you are not intending to keep demanding corals such as SPS, my personal choice will be de-chlorinated tap water. ;)

Edited by Gouldian

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Hi bro,

Boiling water or boiled water is not distilled water. Distillation involves evaporation of water free from impurities and condenses in a separated container. The impurities will remain in the vat used to boil the water. When we boil the water, all impurities remains in the water.

Distilled Water

De-ionised water is using Ion exchange media to trap impurities in order to get clean water. Some will even add Reverse Osmosis process into the DI stage to have better results. RO membrane to remove particulates where by DI to further removes dissolves impurities.

DI Water

Each of the above have its own pros and cons, you may want to weigh them before committing.

However, if you are not intending to keep demanding corals such as SPS, my personal choice will be de-chlorinated tap water. ;)

so just for a fower tank i just de-chlorinated tap water??if so how do i do that??btw any idea if diamond water is de-chlorinated??

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so just for a fower tank i just de-chlorinated tap water??if so how do i do that??btw any idea if diamond water is de-chlorinated??

In the 70s we can just leave tap water overnight; chlorine will dissipate and water is safe for fishes. However, modern water treatment processes add not just chlorine but chloramines which is more stable and will not dissipate easily. Thus, the best way is to use water conditioners below to treat your tap water before using it.

Tetra Aquasafe

SeaChem Prime

Kordon AmQuel Plus

API Ammo-Lock

Do note that water conditioners do not only removes Chlorine or Chloramines but some also will bind heavy metals that are usually found in tap water especially Singapore which predominantly uses copper pipings.

HTH :)

Edited by Gouldian

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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In the 70s we can just leave tap water overnight; chlorine will dissipate and water is safe for fishes. However, modern water treatment processes add not just chlorine but chloramines which is more stable and will not dissipate easily. Thus, the best way is to use water conditioners below to treat your tap water before using it.

Tetra Aquasafe

SeaChem Prime

Kordon AmQuel Plus

API Ammo-Lock

Do note that water conditioners do not only removes Chlorine or Chloramines but some also will bind heavy metals that are usually found in tap water especially Singapore which predominantly uses copper pipings.

HTH :)

so i have to buy all 4?? would buying distill of the shelf save more??

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so i have to buy all 4?? would buying distill of the shelf save more??

lol... no lah bro... just any one of them... :)

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

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lol... no lah bro... just any one of them... :)

double check so i just buy anyone then i use use in on the tap water and add salt to the correct saltiny level leave it for a day then can use to my tank correct???

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double check so i just buy anyone then i use use in on the tap water and add salt to the correct saltiny level leave it for a day then can use to my tank correct???

correct

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double check so i just buy anyone then i use use in on the tap water and add salt to the correct saltiny level leave it for a day then can use to my tank correct???

LCF, best would be to leave it a day with an airstone aerating it.

The ph of tap water is around 9.0

Aerating the water stablises the PH to about 8.2

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

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I'm not sure whether it had mentioned but you can buy a Crystal Pro RO/DI unit to treat your tap water.

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"Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee)

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I'm not sure whether it had mentioned but you can buy a Crystal Pro RO/DI unit to treat your tap water.

I would not reccommend the Crystal Pro unit. Expensive and the resin Cartridges depletes quite fast.

I think a lot of us experience it already. If you get a brand new one, it is almost $200.

the crystal pro cartridge each cost about $40 - $60 and you need to change 2 at a time.

These cartridges last about 2 months or so only, depending on amount usage and tap water TDS reading.

but on the average, running cost is about $100 every 3 months.....

So 1st year = $400 + $200 = $600. (ongoing years = $400 pa)

that is a lot for just water ... hehe.......

Having said all the above, it is different if you get a Crystal pro and purchase refillable cartridges and get resins from bulk orders,

Cost will be only $300 for 1st year and ongoing years = $70 pa. You can save another $100 if you get a 2nd hand unit.

So savings is quite substantial over a period of time.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

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LCF, best would be to leave it a day with an airstone aerating it.

The ph of tap water is around 9.0

Aerating the water stablises the PH to about 8.2

okok will try it out ^^

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Why would anyone buy a 3 stage Crystal Pro unit for 200. dollars? The DI last maybe 50 gallons... I have sold to fellow reefers a 5 stage ro/di unit for 280 dollars, DI can last up to a year... the only thing that needs replacing is the sediment filter that cost less than 10 dollars.

And the sediment filter I bought is a 1 micron filter not a 5 micron filter, and please don't start with the water you'll waste... just think about the water going down the drain every shower you take...lol

So if you weigh the differences between the two units...

Both units have to have the sediment filter replaced often say every three months unless you use a ceramic sediment filter (0.5 micron) like I'm using than it can last for years.

The carbon chips and carbon block last a year or better, the membrane last 3 years and the DI last up to a year or 1000 gallons of 0 TDS.

Just my two cents worth...

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I'm using gary's 5 stage DI unit and I must say I love it! I would recommend anyone who is considering to buy a 2 or 3 stage filter to get Gary's one instead. It's more economical in the long run. He has put a lot of effort designing and getting the parts. I've used a 2 stage before. Di media gets depleted really fast. With gary's design, My di media last so much longer and my reading from my TSS meter always read 0.

Why would anyone buy a 3 stage Crystal Pro unit for 200. dollars? The DI last maybe 50 gallons... I have sold to fellow reefers a 5 stage ro/di unit for 280 dollars, DI can last up to a year... the only thing that needs replacing is the sediment filter that cost less than 10 dollars.

And the sediment filter I bought is a 1 micron filter not a 5 micron filter, and please don't start with the water you'll waste... just think about the water going down the drain every shower you take...lol

So if you weigh the differences between the two units...

Both units have to have the sediment filter replaced often say every three months unless you use a ceramic sediment filter (0.5 micron) like I'm using than it can last for years.

The carbon chips and carbon block last a year or better, the membrane last 3 years and the DI last up to a year or 1000 gallons of 0 TDS.

Just my two cents worth...

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PM'ed you to purchase your 5 stage ro/di unit.

Why would anyone buy a 3 stage Crystal Pro unit for 200. dollars? The DI last maybe 50 gallons... I have sold to fellow reefers a 5 stage ro/di unit for 280 dollars, DI can last up to a year... the only thing that needs replacing is the sediment filter that cost less than 10 dollars.

And the sediment filter I bought is a 1 micron filter not a 5 micron filter, and please don't start with the water you'll waste... just think about the water going down the drain every shower you take...lol

So if you weigh the differences between the two units...

Both units have to have the sediment filter replaced often say every three months unless you use a ceramic sediment filter (0.5 micron) like I'm using than it can last for years.

The carbon chips and carbon block last a year or better, the membrane last 3 years and the DI last up to a year or 1000 gallons of 0 TDS.

Just my two cents worth...

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My brother in-law bought a water sample from his Diamond water filter, we checked the chlorine and the TDS reading... there was a small amount of chlorine still in the sample and the TDS reading was 68ppm his tap water was 80ppm.

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My brother in-law bought a water sample from his Diamond water filter, we checked the chlorine and the TDS reading... there was a small amount of chlorine still in the sample and the TDS reading was 68ppm his tap water was 80ppm.

oh man guess i have to buy Seachem Prime to de-chlorine the water btw whats TDS and what test kits do you guys have ?

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