Jump to content

Water cycle.


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I dropped a market prawn into the tank today.

1. At which stage should i start to dose the nitrifying bacteria?

2. At which stage i could take out the prawn from the tank.

Thanks.

1. you can dose bacteria now.

2. leave it there to totally rot until it disappears.....

be patient.... after this cycle, your fishes will feel better after being introduced into your tank

* clap clap - thanks for doing it the right way.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no need.

yeah don't have to.

The reason is: The water in your tank evaporates. But the salt does not. So if you keep topping off with salt water, there will be more and more salt concentration accumulated in the tank and the salinity will keep on shooting upwards.

Another way to look at it is that water evaporates (less water in tank) but the salt qty stays constant in your tank meaning the tank water is getting more salty. you are topping off water just to maintain salinity.

Remember to top off using treated tapwater or DI water... else algae will boom easily.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

yeah don't have to.

The reason is: The water in your tank evaporates. But the salt does not. So if you keep topping off with salt water, there will be more and more salt concentration accumulated in the tank and the salinity will keep on shooting upwards.

Another way to look at it is that water evaporates (less water in tank) but the salt qty stays constant in your tank meaning the tank water is getting more salty. you are topping off water just to maintain salinity.

Remember to top off using treated tapwater or DI water... else algae will boom easily.

Ditto what bro jacky had mentioned, on top of that, you might want to monitor the salinity as some salt residue to crystallize around your tank, especially when you are using fan.

Regards,

Billy Cheong

70gal, 250w MH (Reeflux 12000K), Tunze Nano Wavebox 6206, Tunze 6045, Tunze 6025, Teco TW4, Rio HF20, Aquabee 3000L, Rio HF17, SM100 Scrubber box (4x24w T5 2700K)

Fish: Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clowns), Nemateleotris magnifica (Firefish), Pterapogon kauderni (Kaudern's Cardinal)

Inverts: Calcinus laevimanus (Hermit Crab), Lysmata amboinensis (Cleaner Shrimp), Sand Dollar

Corals: Capnella (Purple Hairy Finger Leather), Plerogyra sinuosa (Green Bubble Coral), Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral), Dendrophyllia (Supersun Coral), Rhodactis spp. (Hairy Mushroom)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am kinda confused mixing salt water. Am i right to say as long as the SG read from the hydrometer is between 1.022 to 1.028 is OK? that is to say regardless of the water temperature ?

since you are cycling around 1.021 will do.

when you are ready to stock up, try to maintain it constant at 1.024 - 1.025

you can ignore the temp. (I do :P)

you are not doing WC yet right?

cause your tank not cycled.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

No.. i was reading the hydrometer instructions... just confused how to maintain the water to 24 deg c ... since i can ignore the temp .. i am clear now. tks.

Actually, I am not sure about yours. If you read the label on Red Sea marine salt (packet type) they have few range for different temperature.

I took a picture once but I lost it when my iPhone crashed. Strange enough, the bucket version I bought does not have the parameters.......angry.gif

Speaking of which, maybe I should go google it... blush.gif

Edit: I manage to find it here

Regards,

Billy Cheong

70gal, 250w MH (Reeflux 12000K), Tunze Nano Wavebox 6206, Tunze 6045, Tunze 6025, Teco TW4, Rio HF20, Aquabee 3000L, Rio HF17, SM100 Scrubber box (4x24w T5 2700K)

Fish: Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clowns), Nemateleotris magnifica (Firefish), Pterapogon kauderni (Kaudern's Cardinal)

Inverts: Calcinus laevimanus (Hermit Crab), Lysmata amboinensis (Cleaner Shrimp), Sand Dollar

Corals: Capnella (Purple Hairy Finger Leather), Plerogyra sinuosa (Green Bubble Coral), Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral), Dendrophyllia (Supersun Coral), Rhodactis spp. (Hairy Mushroom)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

yes i got manual with the recommended temp/sanilty etc. ...but as Jacky suggested just ignore the temperature... or else how to i bring down the water (water change) temperature to 24 deg c? Unless i have another chiller....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

yes i got manual with the recommended temp/sanilty etc. ...but as Jacky suggested just ignore the temperature... or else how to i bring down the water (water change) temperature to 24 deg c? Unless i have another chiller....

Just use the 27 deg c 1 loh......

Regards,

Billy Cheong

70gal, 250w MH (Reeflux 12000K), Tunze Nano Wavebox 6206, Tunze 6045, Tunze 6025, Teco TW4, Rio HF20, Aquabee 3000L, Rio HF17, SM100 Scrubber box (4x24w T5 2700K)

Fish: Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clowns), Nemateleotris magnifica (Firefish), Pterapogon kauderni (Kaudern's Cardinal)

Inverts: Calcinus laevimanus (Hermit Crab), Lysmata amboinensis (Cleaner Shrimp), Sand Dollar

Corals: Capnella (Purple Hairy Finger Leather), Plerogyra sinuosa (Green Bubble Coral), Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral), Dendrophyllia (Supersun Coral), Rhodactis spp. (Hairy Mushroom)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Your hydrometer only measures specific gravity. Temperature has no effect on SG. It only affects salinity.

Edit: It is only callibrated to read salinity @ 24degrees. If you don't want to read up on the difference btw salinity and SG, just follow Jacky's advice, won't go wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

yes i got manual with the recommended temp/sanilty etc. ...but as Jacky suggested just ignore the temperature... or else how to i bring down the water (water change) temperature to 24 deg c? Unless i have another chiller....

Bro,

You may find this link useful :)

Regards,

Billy Cheong

70gal, 250w MH (Reeflux 12000K), Tunze Nano Wavebox 6206, Tunze 6045, Tunze 6025, Teco TW4, Rio HF20, Aquabee 3000L, Rio HF17, SM100 Scrubber box (4x24w T5 2700K)

Fish: Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clowns), Nemateleotris magnifica (Firefish), Pterapogon kauderni (Kaudern's Cardinal)

Inverts: Calcinus laevimanus (Hermit Crab), Lysmata amboinensis (Cleaner Shrimp), Sand Dollar

Corals: Capnella (Purple Hairy Finger Leather), Plerogyra sinuosa (Green Bubble Coral), Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral), Dendrophyllia (Supersun Coral), Rhodactis spp. (Hairy Mushroom)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

hi bro,

this is my 3rd day cycling the tank with a market prawn

ammonia = 1.0

nitrite = 0.2

nitrate = High range : 25, Low range : 2.5 ** i dont know how this should be read...

From the reading Nitrate is very high, at this point do i need to do a water change?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah don't have to.

The reason is: The water in your tank evaporates. But the salt does not. So if you keep topping off with salt water, there will be more and more salt concentration accumulated in the tank and the salinity will keep on shooting upwards.

Another way to look at it is that water evaporates (less water in tank) but the salt qty stays constant in your tank meaning the tank water is getting more salty. you are topping off water just to maintain salinity.

Remember to top off using treated tapwater or DI water... else algae will boom easily.

Oh my god, i have been topping up with salt water for past 2 month... :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi bro,

this is my 3rd day cycling the tank with a market prawn

ammonia = 1.0

nitrite = 0.2

nitrate = High range : 25, Low range : 2.5 ** i dont know how this should be read...

From the reading Nitrate is very high, at this point do i need to do a water change?

Thanks.

no need to do WC. just wait till ammonia drops to 0, you should see the next spike on nitrite a few days later.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and also, for Alk and Mg, the color charts show "start" and "end" . What do these mean? How do i get a value from the chart?

what testers are you using. They come with instructions?

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Oh my god, i have been topping up with salt water for past 2 month... wacko.gif

chair.gif

Pls do check your salinity! If its on the high side do adjust it slowly... else the corals and fishes will get a shock..

Good Luck! thumbsup.gif

A man with a reef tank is a man with an empty wallet...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...