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Calcium overdosed!


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  • SRC Member

Hi guys,

I have accidentally overdosed calcium supplement in my tank...think it shot up to at least 800. Very stupid of me, was using API testkit (trying to save some cost and perhaps i bought an expired testkit as there was no expired date on the box) and felt something is wrong when i see some negative reaction of my LPS after a few days. It's when I change to Salifret testkit that I got a shock that I've grossly overdosed.

Besides water changes, which i have tried but failed as our salt also comes with high calcium content, any has there any other ideas to bring down the calcium level at a faster pace without water changes? Prob the last resort would be to change the entire tank water with NSW.

Thanks.

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  • SRC Member

Hi guys,

I have accidentally overdosed calcium supplement in my tank...think it shot up to at least 800. Very stupid of me, was using API testkit (trying to save some cost and perhaps i bought an expired testkit as there was no expired date on the box) and felt something is wrong when i see some negative reaction of my LPS after a few days. It's when I change to Salifret testkit that I got a shock that I've grossly overdosed.

Besides water changes, which i have tried but failed as our salt also comes with high calcium content, any has there any other ideas to bring down the calcium level at a faster pace without water changes? Prob the last resort would be to change the entire tank water with NSW.

Thanks.

transfer yr corals to a temporary holding place...otherwise, your LPS will up the lorry...watch out for the softies...they will probably melt and cause a spike in nitrate

u may want to transfer yr corals to sealife for holding first...i think one week is $30

meanwhile do water change using nsw on yr main tank

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  • SRC Member

transfer yr corals to a temporary holding place...otherwise, your LPS will up the lorry...watch out for the softies...they will probably melt and cause a spike in nitrate

u may want to transfer yr corals to sealife for holding first...i think one week is $30

meanwhile do water change using nsw on yr main tank

I think easier way is to just change NSW for the whole tank..

Transfering corals here and there is more troublesome and stressful to them and to us.

Well, only if the bacteria/corals die off and nitrate already spike up then I would probably transfer the corals.

But either way, its a gamble. No right, no wrong. My humble opinion. :paiseh:

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Thanks for your comments.

As mine is a 422 and some LPS are glued to the LR, and transferring all the corals will also be a big hassle as i don't drive. Guess i would have to do the quick fix method by taking a day off and asking Irwana to pump in NSW for the whole tank. Many LPS are starting to recede and expose a bit of their skeletons. Sigh...

For the other bros, just be careful when using testkits. Don't end up like my case.

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Guys IMO test kits are a waste of money. They do more harm then good! The best thing is to have the tank fallow as long as you can "tahan" then gradually introduce fish. Many of the salt mixes in the market will take care of all the necessary elements needed in the aquarium. As long as small frequent partial water changes are made the tank will do fine. UNLESS you need very specific parameters for keeping VERY SPECIAL extra sensitive organisms which IMO even then its not necessary.

AH SIANG KISS MY ARSE

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Thanks for your comments.

As mine is a 422 and some LPS are glued to the LR, and transferring all the corals will also be a big hassle as i don't drive. Guess i would have to do the quick fix method by taking a day off and asking Irwana to pump in NSW for the whole tank. Many LPS are starting to recede and expose a bit of their skeletons. Sigh...

For the other bros, just be careful when using testkits. Don't end up like my case.

Most test kits have expiry date stamped. If you do not see the date stamp, then better to avoid buying it.

Hope your tank is ok now bro.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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  • 4 months later...

Most test kits have expiry date stamped. If you do not see the date stamp, then better to avoid buying it.

Hope your tank is ok now bro.

The expiry date (lot number) for API is printed on the bottle itself. Unfortunately there is really no way to check the lot number on the kits until the kit is purchased. As such I have wrote a email to API and here was the reply,

The expiration of the reagents will vary, each reagent bottle has a Lot # printed on the top front of the bottle. The last four digits are the month and year of manufacture. Example: Lot # 28A0110. This is a pH reagent manufactured in January of 2010. PondCare Wide Range pH, Phosphate, Copper, Calcium and GH all last for three years. Ammonia, PondCare Ammonia, Nitrite, PondCare Nitrite, Nitrate, High Range pH, KH, Freshwater pH(low range) and PondCare Salt Level will last for five years.

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Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Willing is not enough; we must do. - Goethe

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  • SRC Member

was wondering how where you able to measure 800 in a salifert test kit, and in any case, an ionic imbalance will show symptoms of really high calcium concentration.

as per other reefers' suggestion, partial YET gradual water change will help -- other than that, buy lotsa sps :)

A responsible reefer will test his water parameters from time to time -- test kits is not a waste of money but constant buying of livestock to replenish dead ones due to poor husbandry is.... any senior reefer will agree on that.

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