ZeRoCoOl

Revised Prices: (as of 4th Aug) CA Reactor + 2nd chamber: $300 comes w/ media + MG pro + 1.9L CO2 tank (empty) ** no CO2 regulator 1X 3ft beckett skimmer + pump(resnun MD40): $200 comes with PVC piping on outlet (T- joint and L joint) Lots of dried base rocks: $3/kg for <5kg $2/kg for >5kg 1X Resun Chiller : $100/pc **thermostate spoilt, but chiller still working. Require servicing/own thermosta MH bulbs: Radium 250W SE E40 socket $50/pc almost new 1 X Aquabee 3000 Pump $90 1yr+ Working perfectly as 1st day. Submersible or external usage contact me: nokia6100_00@hotmail.com ** self collect at my place (Katong area)

Aquabee 3000 Specifications - Watt: 45 - L/h: 3000 - H-max.: 2.4m Features - For fresh and seawater. - Non-pressuring or filter pump. - Submerged, or installed above water level. - Minimum-noise operation. - Long useful life due to ceramic shaft. - Low power consumption. - Compact design, high performance. - Proper filtrationcartridge as option.

New item added: Aquabee 3000 Pump $100 1yr+ Working perfectly as 1st day. Submersible or external usage

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House undergoing some renovation soon, and fish tank is shutdown. Got the following for sale: 1X Calcium reactor + 2nd pass: $350 supports 4ft easily comes w/ media + MG pro + 1.9L CO2 tank (empty) **no CO2 regulator 1X 3ft beckett skimmer + pump: $250 comes with PVC piping on outlet (T- joint and L joint) ** aluminium foil is to prevent growth of coraline algae w/in the tubes themselves Lots of dried base rocks: $3/kg for <5kg $2/kg for >5kg 2 X Resun Chiller : $100/pc **thermostate spoilt, but chiller still working. Require servicing/own thermosta MH bulbs: Radium 250W SE E40 socket $50/pc almost new contact me: nokia6100_00@hotmail.com ** self collect at my place (Katong area)

Hardy little fellow. Cash and carry $5 Clearing nano tank

Great for display or in tanks with coral nippers Price ranges depending on size and no. of pc bought View individual pics at: Coral 1 Coral 2 Coral 3 More pics at: My Stone Corals

Not 1, but a few different rocks at diff position of my tank

Changed to 250W 20KK only See some opening a little more... but overall still closed But i see alot of them shedding "skin".. is tt normal?? Will post a pic once i get back my DC

wat if U place yr skimmer pump in yr overflow box? Skim the water before it goes into the sump, and yr return from the sump at the opp side of the tank? Minimise the interation of the new pods and skimmer intake? Forgotten where is yr return liao Getting old

Nice upgrades since the last time i went to yr place!!! Y not run the skimmer in sump to reduce micro bubbles in main tank? scared yr pods get skimmed out?

Yeah, it's still skimming... though not efficiently dun know. IT's hard to clean as it is not in the collection cup

IT is supposely said tt running the pump ext is abit cooler but by how much no ones has an answer. I run all my pumps ext, but ensure there is constant air flow around/ past the pumps, cos they can get quite hot. So to reduce any sort of heat transfer via radiation/ conduction, having some cool air flowing past them pumps is good As for returning to main tank: U can build a smallbuffer box like a betta bos at the outlet of the gate valve. Have some sock / filter bag over the outlet and the betta box will be a back up for any bubbles tt escape. Allow enough time for the bubbles to rise to the surface, instead of dwelling in the water colume. However, the sizing will be trial and error. And will take up some space in yr main tank. The idea is to slow down the water exiting the skimmer thus allowing the bubbles to rise to the surface like buffles in sumps. my 2 cents

As mentioned: First: Is yr skimmer new? New skimmers need a few days to "break in". Else U can hasten the process buy washing it in warm water. 2: Take out the injector and clean it, check if there is any snail shells or sand stuck in it. Then rinse and clean off the slim/ buildup w/ vinegar 3: Check the air valve. Make sure it is FULLY open. Remember reading somewhere tt is is better to leave it fully open 4: Check yr pump, is it working at full capacity or did u tune i tune it down? 5: Check yr collection cup, make sure the overflow outlet is not obstructed. Since it will add back pressure to yr pump 6: How high is yr skimmer above yr water level? Try to mount the outlet gate as close to the water level of the sump as possible. Having it too high above the water level will add unnecessary head pressure to the skimmer. It really affects the performance 7: Do u add chemicals to yr tank? I find feeding and changing water will cause the skimmer to temporary cease operations 8: Is yr settings correct? Air valve FULLY open Water level should be at internal platform (U'll need a torch to see, unless yr sump very bright) / or water level abt +/- 1" below the top/outer platform Go fiddle abit with the skimmer. It's not tt hard to tune Had a EV180 on a 1262, did a beautiful job for my 2ft cube But nowusing a killer beckett..

Installing a CB at yr wall plug is quite useless, cos there is already one at the main CB of yr home. Wat U wan are dedicated wall plugs that can handle the higher amps usage for the tank. And also seperate ELCB protection from the home circuit but normally, typically, using plugs from 2 different circuit will not cause any tripping. Only cause of concern is when yr whole house trip, then yr tank is affected. Some reefers here get electricians to seperately wire a ELCB for their tank. So the tank circuit and the house circuit is seperated. IF anyone trip the other is not affected 2 cents

It depends on wat temperature you looking at. For small thank CL 280 is more than enough, but not sure if you're running a 250W MH on it... Or a teco micro?? Gona be $$ though. Else for FL/ PL lightings, a few DIY PC fans and an automated topup for water evaporation should be more than sufficient. Cheapest option and realistic since I doubt u will be aiming for anything below 26 degrees... are you Else U can always get an ice probe or 2 to fit in yr tank

These are CUTE! Looks like the little mushrooms in smurfs.. WAY BACK

Yes If U guys went down to Octopus Bay last time, U will see some of these products on display there Not bad quality i must admit!

Wet for me bro takes more gunk out faster, and easier to clean as no dry buildup at the riser a pain to clean after a week for me

For frags I use superglue gel / locite gel small bottle ~$2 * typically use 1 -2 time before tip hardens big bottle (reseallable) ~$4 ** I find this more worth it as can re-use a few time w/o hardening and spoilting the noozle IMO: liquid type of superglue / elephant glue too messy And for rocks use epoxy as DB.

Hope U don't mind i chip into your thread hamannbmw May i know what's the use of filter wool??? ===> To catch dirt? so using a filter sock on the overflow serves the same purpose Do U use Rowa or similar phophate removal agent?

No tank is the same, so what works for him or me, may or may not work for you Just have to try it first, if works then great, if not then have to keep trying other methods Hmm.. U mention water changes; I do not do water change weekly.... monthly... I last did my water change think abt 3mths back... I do not use RO/DI water. I just add the salt to my predetermine amt of water to change. Maybe i should try to change water weekly??? But can anyone prove the worth??? cos quite $$ to change water weekly To: wa_lanz I prefer wet skimming as easier to get gunk into the collection cup instead of collecting onto the riser neck. I also can clean less often every 4-5 days instead of 2-3 days

My 2 cents on my care taking: - (1) Have a good skimmer and have wetter skimming + control feeding (2) Correct colour temp MH: best if 6500K + radium. But i using 250 W 10KK + 150W 20KK

From my experience, the effluent PH will vary with the dKh and Ca of the effluent. If U raise yr PH, the you'll get less dKh, and Ca. IMO: Best to get the tank depletion rate = CR injection rate. Effluent PH can be counted via other methods. As most CR will have a low effluent reading of 6.8- 6.4 ** average Reefer's tend to let the effluent drip: (1) into a high flow area (2) into the skimmer (3) some even make a effluent collecting device that helps to release the excess CO2 before mixing into the tank water (4) Some just let it drip directly into the tank water. They wither add kalk via a reactor or manually drip.

There is no one fixed value for the parimeters Non of our tanks are exactly alike so the values given are just guide lines for you to tune the CR to your tank needs. You may have a effluent dKH of 30 and it maintains for your tank, while another reefer requires a dKH of 45. As long as your tank can maintain the KH ~ 9 - 11, Ca ~ 420, Mg ~ 1300 stick to our CR settings. Once you find the depletion rate = injection rate then you can set and forget abt your R until the media starts dropping a few inches. BUT check your effluent lines are not clogged from time to time