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Any double ended MH lamps can use high pressure sodium (HPS) /metal halide (MH) ballast plus a 4.2 KV igniter. Vossloh Schwabe, Magnetek are some of the ballast brands.

YUp, AT's right instead of spending for a denitrator use a DSB. I never had nitrate problems using a DSB. For my SPS tank adding calcium fast enough is my main problem. Instead of spending for a denitrator which requires maintenance use your savings for other essential equipment.

May not be possible as MH bulbs have certain ballast designed to run them. Between a 1000 watt and 250 watt they will require a different striking voltage as well as current. 4 x 250 watt internal resistance is not the same as 1 1000 watt bulb. Either u burn the ballast, blow the igniter or bulb or do all at the same time or it won't even light up.

It will depend a lot on the pump you use to drive the skimmer. Bigger pumps require bigger diameter pipes to contain the volume of foam produced whereas smaller pumps will require a smaller diameter pipe.

I am now using a ketchup squeeze bottle. Cheap and just as good. So far have used it for almost 9 months now without failure....

I'm using a Hailaea 880 for the past 5 months so far so good can cool down my 350 litre tank w/ 800 watts of lighting in around 30 minutes using a Eheim 1060 to pump the water. My 1/3 Hp chiller used to run for 4 to 5 hours to cool down my tank.

THere's a refrigeration shop along Jln Besar that sells digital controller for around $60. The controller is powered by 230V AC with an integral AC relay for connectionto the compressor. If ur coming from Lavender its on the right side of Jln Besar before you reach Kitchener Road.

THe air intake will depend on the pump driving the skimmer the more powerful the pump is the more air it will draw. Actually you need to balance the pump flow rate with the skimmer riser tube. 6" body and 4 " foam riser will require a more powerful pump in the same league as the Oceanfree 9000 (it seems to me that Qian Hu OEM it from the same manufacturer as what they sell in the States as Sen 900). If you reduce the pump flow rate to 3000 li/hr the air intake requirement is not as much and a green air valve can be used ( I am using it myself as it enable you to fine tune the foam in the skimmer). For a 3000 li/hr you may need to reduce the foam riser to a 3" diameter pipe as there may not be enough flow rate to push the foam up the tube. If you put too much air to compensate for this, the bubble formed will be larger and not as fine as restricting the air. It also may lead to too much turbulence resulting in an unstable foam formation.

I bought one from carrefour 2 years ago. I have not seen it there ever since. The rubber bulb will break aftera few months if use it in saltwater. You need to rinse it every after use.

Phang, So far my workplace MH ballast has been running for 7 years now..

That's an allen cap screw. You need to drill it out using a drill diameter slightly bigger than the screw thread diameter. The other way is to use a counter punch or screwdriver using it as a chisel to try to turn it counterclockwise. If it is a mild steel screw then drilling it is no problem but if it is stainless or hardened then may be more problematic.

http://www.korallenriff.de/koriff20.html Tang police will be foaming at the mouth! on this http://www.korallenriff.de/dorisburghart.html

I bought blue tips once and it has remained brown for a year now... My other blue staghorn will turn brown when light is not enough but under strong light the sky blue comes out strongly with excellent growth. I had 3 types of purple, one colony just cannot adapt and has since been reduced to a few branches, the other is now recovering and the tips have become purple again (after a year), the 3rd one turn purple after a month. So can you come out with a rule for acros... the answer is no. Depends much on ur luck and ur tank conditions.

Spade, Need to do calculations on your payback period for the electronic ballast as compared to magnetic ballast. Typically for 250w the magnetic ballast consumes around 275w not so sure of the electronic ballast but I would think that its at least 250w. 25w x 10h/day = 0.25 kwh/day x 365 = 91.25 kwh/yr. @say $0.18/kwh annual savings is $16.42/yr. Payback period is 240-40 =$200/16.42= 12 years. Electronic ballasts will only last a few years ~3-5 in ideal conditions. You wont get your money back. Even u increase the difference in watts to 50 u still need 6 years to breakeven. Previouslywhen I was in facilties operation FLelectronic ballast will break down in 3-4 years some even less if the ambient temperature is not ideal. If yo put a fan to cool it down then u subtract from your electrical savings plus ur fan needs replacement evry year or so due to bearing problems.

RO is typically much cheaper in the long run if u use a lot of water. With care Ro membranes lasts 2 to 3 years. If u can use the waste water for laundry or flushing toilets then it does not necessarily results in waste. I did not have any diatom blooms since using RO water for top-up and changes. I also used DI before but found them expensive, the DI resins last only 200-300 litres before it is exhausted. At $50 per tube it burns a hole in your pocket. Anyway 98% removal of contaminants is good enough.

I fur using plastic tubing forget it, u might as well blow the fans directly into your tank. Plastic does not transfer heat easily. It is good only for nano tanks of ten gallons or smaller where space to out fans directly is limited or high evaporation rate is not desired.

Best light for a clam especially croceas and maximas is 6500K full spectrum light to mimic shallow water. You might want to check for bristleworms or some other creature that may be preying on your clams. Clams if they are not imbedded in a rock base are easy prey for a lot of pest as the base of croceas and maximas is quite large leaving a vulnerable opening into the clam's innards.

400w Iwasaki - Eye lighting sells the ballast w/ or w/out casing 400w radium - any high pressure sodium or metal halide ballast from Vossloh Schwabe or Magnetek and others can be bought from electrical shops like Chan Huat in Balestier ~ $40

Japanese reefers! Banzai!

Prices in Singapore from Eye Lighting: Iwasaki Eye 250W 6,500K Bulb (US$60) - ~$85 Iwasaki Eye 400W 6,500K Bulb (US$60)- ~$90 Iwasaki 400W Coils Ballast (US$120) - ~$40 for normal mercury vapor ballast w/out casing Korallin Calcium Reactor - good buy if compared to buying from Germany or US

Nope, a high flow rate over a heat exchanger increases the efficiency of heat transfer it prevents a build up of the thermal layer over the surface that restricts heat transfer.

Hi alvy, I used to buy reflector for a 2 x 36w lighting fixture at an electrical shop along Kitchener Road (Kitchener Complex along Jalan Besar). You can also try the electrical supply shop along JB near Eminent Plaza. The other shop you might try is Chan Huat along Balestier. One thing though is that they are not perfectly flat they have a bend on each side.

most of the live rocks that is being shipped are loose rubbles found in shallow waters. They wil not waste their energy trying to hack the reefs just to get rocks that sell for a cheap price. You can observe that the rocks being brought in are shaped from natural erosion and the surfaces have tunicates and sponges growing. Rocks broken from reefs through manual methods will show jagged breaks with no encrustations as well as much lighter in color tham the surrounding. Actually the natives in those islands are using coral rocks to build their houses as well as pave their roads with it. The quantity they use to pave a kilometer of roads is more than enough to supply reefers in Singapore with live rock for a few years. The marine aquarium trade is not the main culprit in the wanton gathering of liverocks.

You're right! never thought of the running cost...

One question u should post to Champion ( I also bought some stuffs (not lighting) from them before) is why are they using E40 sockets when the US standard is E39 and bulbs for the US market are E39 screw base. Ushio and Radium as well as other European light manufacturers are makng 4 types of screw bulbs E26 and E39 for the North American market and E27 and E40 for Europe and Asia. From the manufacturers websites E39 and E40 base bulbs have different part numbers.