anakjoh

Your suggestion is not practical lah. Who knows how the lfs receive the xenias? And which lfs would special pack the xenias when it's not expensive stuff?

Yep, that's why some of us, M'sian buy from S'pore. Calvinci, pls don't forget the KLites when you frag. MANY THANKS!

Unfortunately, most of us do not select the tank size for the ls we wish to keep. I believe everyone, myself included, bought a tank and then fill it with any coral we can lay hands on. My advice to newbies would be get a shallow tank, preferably 2 ft length/width wise (height 1.5ft max) and use T5s or PC min. In this way you do not have to worry about insufficient light penetration at the same time wide surface area will allow cooling by fan easily. Such a dimension will also allow u to segregate the tanks area with LR so that you can experiment keeping aggresive corals. Eventually, you will be more focused and plan your next tank with all the works! In the event, you still wish to keep everything, then what the heck, go get all manner of tanks to suit the different needs but not many of us have that kind of luxury with $$$ and space.

I think twice a month

I have 2 wrasses only - fairy and six line Maybe it's the hermit - is that common? It dislodge one day before I added coral beauty - maybe it can foretell ???

Can anyone tell me under what circumstances will the coco worm's head (feelers) fall off? Thanks

Croceas and maximas are light loving and would need MH, besides the issues raised by Gouldian.

AGREED !

I'm not handy man myself so I suggest you get pro service to do it - too much at risk to take the chance if u r not sure at all I can't imagine damage MH plus tank crash n have to cycle all over again.

I suppose it depends on what is your purpose. If it's a hospital tank, then it's temp only and u would use medication in it. But if it's for new fishes, then it's parameters & content shld be sufficient for just that one fish until it can be introduced into the main tank. I believe for whatever purpose, QT shld have LR and sand and the paramaters shld be similar to the main tank. This is to save the fish from shock when it's released into the main tank. N yes, lots of hiding place is desirable. I think the main purpose of QT is to ensure that new fishes do not carry diseases into the main tank. When it's introduced into the main tank, you probably have to "quarantine" it within, depending on species to allow acclimatisation by both the new fish as well as existing tankmates in order to reduce bullying as much as possible.

I own a small 100l 2 ft tank and I lost many fishes in it even a brown tang - never seen any carcass. I know there's a crab somewhere but surely it can't consume a whole fish in a day? the latest I lost is a algae blenny.

I think a rating is good - as consumers we should have our say and and influence lfs commercial behaviour - after all IT'S OUR MONEY WE ARE SPENDING. However, may I suggest we rate only the good points and keep silent on the negative ones. For instance, friendliness, helpfulness, knowledge, etc. Of course, such rating must be taken with a pinch of salt because there are many factors involved and could be abused. To be relevant it has to be updated periodically. BTW such rating is good for reefers like me who live outside Singapore. It may also encourage some lfs to improve.

Looks like u have done what u shld do save for the light - take the advice and go for a light change. Do u use tap water to top up?

I believe that's a target temp for seahorses.

Done

'Coz religion is man-made that's y.

There are even orange, yellow, white ones but i don't see them much in local tanks here except in pictures. Alan, if it grows everywhere esp on glasses that rapidly, I'm afraid not all may be coralline. Perhaps mostly microalgae?

If anyone has read or browse thru it, pls give a review. I wonder if books like that may be bias towards redsea products only. BTW $40 is cheap if the book is as good as it can be. I made a mistake of buying many small vol which are not comprehensive/in-depth. IMO it's best to buy 1 or 2 good books only even if it costs an arm n a leg.

Definitely overcrowding and can't cope with system change. I'm more interested to know y the one fish survived? What made it so fit ah? BTW, ask yr mum to get her own tank.

Opinions differ between 4in and 6in, so I guess anywhere in between shld be a safe bet. If your main tank has depth, u could partition off a good 6in with glass and fill it up with sand. Take note however, you may want to "seal" the sand surface with net/other material to prevent sand sifters ie blennies and wrasses from digging up your sand bed. As for sump, pls do a forum search - there's so many designs and DIY possibilities too! H ave fun

Agreed! N they eat like 10 years never eat before! Always pity the slower fish can't eat because the d@#n damsels dash in n out, so to feed the slower fishes u tend to overfeed to make sure there's extra for slower fishes

Yep, the hard ones are bubble algae n definitely won't burst unless poked with sharp object. These algae's are fine except that you would not want them to overrun in yr tank. BTW, it means they are using up excess unwanted nutrients in yr tank. There's a lot to be paranoid about if you don't read up first. I read a lot n draw my own conclusions n there's still so so much I do not know!

GAC - granulated activated carbon DSB - dead sand bed The abbrev.'s in the pinned thread. You shld read it first. For eg. LR - live rock.

Thanks for the prompt replies! I'm using a fan but it's at the sump rather than the main tank. I suspect temp's the prob but just didn't want to admit it coz trying to avoid buying a chiller. I will pay special attention to the temp. This pre-CNY season is particularly hot but windy.

Chromis may be hardy but after a while look pretty dull compared to others. My advice - finalise your list, then purchase in sequence from least aggressive to more aggressive. Recommendation (in sequence of purchase):- cardinals, gobies (except mandarin - for mature tank only), anthias, clown (strictly 1 type only, maybe 2 for 3 ft), wrasses/dottybacks & tang. That may be too many already for 3 ft. blue devil damsel if you like but generally aggressive. Blennies anytime. Shrimps - CBS last.