kamino

Thanks. Ya, pretty sure those are camel shrimps because I have seen his 3-in-1 pack

For your reading http://www.emperordivers.com/blog/2010/04/nudibranchs-fascinating-small-colourful-creatures.html#.USNVLBEaySM

Bro, spotted any Bali peppermint shrimps there? Thanks!

Usually I vote for CF since they have hermit crabs, urchins, snails, brittlestars, shrimps, sand-sifting stars, cucumbers, etc. A good range to choose.

Good to know such small bottles work too. I don't particularly like using cola bottles since they are too light Time to drink more bird nest ;p

Not too sure about the dark areas portion but to share what I learnt from a sifu on the ceramic rings - if detritus is allowed trapped on the rings then it may become a factory for nutrient. The advice is to shake the rings off the detritus once awhile. Live rocks do provide another source of bacteria for denitrification - or you can try dosing chemical filtration such as biodigest. For a nano tank, control feeding I guess is important

Actually quite easy to remove them. I usually tap lightly on them ... kinda like irritate them abit till they withdraw to their shells.

Thanks all for the advices. I am fortunate to have a sifu to visit my place yesterday Now in progress of implementing some changes to the tank.

Hey brothers, Thanks all for the advice. I will think about them. And to respond to some advices: Is it alright to turn off the lights for a few days? because I have corals. The algae in general appears all 4 sides of tank so I dont think it is restricted to low flow area. Bacteria king I rinsed them with saltwater every 3 months but you are right. I think placing them right below the sponges is not a great idea...if the detritus went through the sponges, they may get trapped by the bacteria king. So for softie and LPS it is not necessary for me to set the peak settings to 100% white, 80% blue? Ya mine is RO/DI water with no phosphate.

I have checked that Tunze 9006 is good for 100 gallon and also I am limited by space...so this is the best I can go for. Livestock = 1 clown, 2 blue damsel, 1 sand sifting goby, 1 adorned wrasse, 1 YT, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 boxer shrimp, 1 urchin and a few snails Food = Formula 1 flakes mostly. Tank dimension = 4ft x 2ft x 1.5ft Coral = LPS, softie, zoas and mushrooms...no SPS due to high NO3 Lighting = Razor 120W x 2, Lighting period is from 11am - 11pm...but the light is only full bloom between 4pm - 8pm...other time is around 1% - 50% blue light 1% - 70% white light Thanks.

Hey Sunny brother, thanks for the encouragement. I also thought I am doing all I can but the NO3 reduction is extremely slow and algae breakout is within 2 - 3 days... It is very discouraging when I reached home after work and hope to enjoy the tank, and ends up glaring at only the algae covered tank...sigh... Really envy those tanks that are clean with white sand...and clean walls...in fact I clean my wall every single week...but within 2 days BOOM... May I know what you need to know about my tank? So that I can provide information. Thanks!

Hi brothers, I need some expert advice here. Because I am pretty discouraged by the algae problem after battling it for 6 -8 months with no apparent improvement. I have a 100 gallon tank and I always have cyano and algae issue. This is an account of what I have tried: 1) A chaeto refugium but the nutrient export is very slow. Week after week I dont see improvement in NO3 reduction although I see growth in the chaeto. Eventually I gave up the chaeto and make space for NP Biopellet Reactor since this is another method I found online. Currently I am running it and its outlet is placed near to the Tunze 9006 skimmer to export the bacteria. I was using Ehim compact 1000 with the reactor and later I learnt that if the bacteria is not exported or consumed by coral it may cause algae issue too. Hence I lower the flow by half a month ago. 2) I reduce feeding - only feed on alternate days and only 1 minute or so - ensuring the fishes can consume the food before adding more...but never more than 1 minute. 3) Used to use tap water, so I changed to DI water since 2 months ago. I tested the DI water to be 0 NO3... 4) Weekly maintenance to clean skimmer cup, replace mechanical filtration, etc. 5) I dose biodigest every 2 weeks and PO Goodbye every 3 - 4 days. PO4 is undetectable now. I have ROWA which I replaced after 3 months... And still the NO3 remains close to 20ppm (was 30ppm before I start this battle). My aquarium wall is often covered with brown algae within 2 days. My sand is covered by them as well. Sometimes hair algae grows. I am really in a loss on what can be done...so discouraged that feel like giving up...need some experts to shed light...

Hi brothers, Since about 2 months ago, my Ehim 1262 return pump become noisy. Not sure if it is my imagination but the flow rate seems to slow down. Everytime I adjust the return pump abit, the noise my subside for awhile then returns. I feel may be some part is loose? Any advice? or are there tank maker or maintenance guy to engage for help? Unfortuantely I am not a handy guy

Hi brothers, Need some advice here. I am thinking of having a BTA in my aquarium but since it is a wanderer, I am worried that it moves around stinging other corals. I am thinking... if I create a small rock 'island' which is away from the aquarium glass and other rock scape...is it possible to confine its movement only on that 'island'? Will the BTA attempt to move across the sand to the other rock scape? Anyone have experience on this? Thanks.

Hi brothers, I am looking to change my sump tank because I am not happy with the current design... I have numerous requirements in mind and a constraint to keep the sump tank to a certain dimension (due to the size of cabinet) ... Any brother can recommend a good tank maker that are good in advices? Probably those into marine, can understand my requirement... Thanks!