SubzeroLT

I had this issue before but resolved it. 1) You'll need to slow down the flow rate of the down pipe from the overflow to the sump. This can be done with a ball valve. This will allow the water level inside the overflow box to rise a little & allow the durso overflow pipe to be in a full siphon (it is not now). Because it is not, you get a lot of air in the downpipe which creates a lot of noise 2) The pipe in the sump should exit below the water level. Putting a filter sock there may also help

For $160, I assume you purchased the AL-30 mini chiller? Your tank is about 16 gallons / 60 liters right? A suitable compressor chiller size would be 1/10HP. Brands like Hailea are quite affordable.

The mesh is very neatly done. Now you can have peace of mind

Looking forward to your updates. Very nice anemones indeed.

Thanks...good to know

Sometimes it just seems impossible to catch all the fishes out to leave it fallow (eg. goby hiding under the rocks). In my case, I did the following for the display tank : 1) UV sterilizer. Running through at extremely slow flow rate to reduce parasites in the water column 2) Soak Mysis shrimp in Garlic Guard for at least 30 minutes. 2x a day. Theory : The parasites dislike the smell of garlic & won't cling on. 3) Lower salinity from 1.025 to 1.024 or even 1.023. I didn't reduce further as I had corals & invertebrates in there. But if its a fowler, I understand that its possible to lower it to 1.009 then hold it for 4 weeks to break the ich cycle.

Very nice LPS collection! Particularly, the golden torch, red acan & pink gonio - some of the more unique collection.

Clams get most of their food requirements through photosynthesis. In fact, they need relatively high lighting. They will get by without any target feeding. They'll do fine with the food (as mentioned above - marine snow, phytofeast....) you feed to your other SPS/LPS that's left in the water & pick them up as water filters through them.

My understanding is that it is waste and zooanthellae - normal. BUT, do need to monitor & ensure it does not discharge excessive zooanthellae till it gets bleached.

Just out of curiosity, what are you feeding the purple sea slug? I believe they are on a specific sponge diet but am not aware which it is for the purple slugs.

A popular brand is Julian Sprung Sea Veggies (Green). I feed it to my sea hare occasionally. Tied to a small rock like this :

From your post, N03 is 50ppm. Phosphate is 0ppm. This unbalance is an issue & may be the reason why your N03 remains high. This could be related to a phosphate binder added? In my case, my GSP don't open when nitrate starts to creep past 30ppm. From my understanding, there needs to be a 16:1 (Nitrate : Phosphate) relationship for the bacteria to process the waste nutrients effectively. At such nitrate levels, at minimum, the phosphate needs to be detectable (not entirely 0). Do double check, else allow the phosphate to increase temporarily..

Sea Hare munching on seaweed tied to a rock Something luminous green is growing next to the Yuma. I'm not sure if its a 'baby yuma' but thought they reproduce by splitting in the middle.

Lovely colors. Do you have an issue with the Octo stinging the others?

Outside the tank & especially along the water line, right?

Those are something called spirorbid worms. Google it. You can scrape them off if it bugs you. After some time, they won't come back.

My electricity/water bill increase by about $50 with my marine tank (it was roughly the same increase when running my freshwater tank as well) I'm using 1/4hp chiller, 180W lights (but running at probably ~50% power) & 40W return pump to run the 3ft tank.

You can still use your existing cabinet. Not an issue to add a sump in it. Using a sump simplifies things in the longer run for a marine setup. Its always possible to use hang on add on filter/skimmer. They have smaller capacities, hence may limit the choices of live stock to keep. Same situation for me - converted my 3x1.5x1.5 freshwater to marine. The link in my signature shows some photos of the conversion in case you are interested.

Activated carbon are actually a media with very very small holes in it. Primary purpose : - Remove chlorine/chloramine - Remove tannins (color the water yellow) - Remove bad smell - Remove trace elements. (not a good thing though) - Remove medication after treatment is completed The shop is probably saying there is no value in adding carbon during the cycling process. That is, its just wasting money using it at that point in time. If you want to add carbon, then use after adding fish. To my knowledge, not many people use carbon on a regular basis.

High ammonia, moderate nitrite, low nitrate -> Looks like your tank is still in the early stages of cycling. I would do the following : - Add bacteria (eg. Microbacter 7) - Turn off the skimmer if you have it running. Not required during cycling. Don't skim out the beneficial bacteria in the water column to speed things up. - Turn off the light. Not required during cycling. Prevent

Wow. Fierce

Quite serious indeed. Mine was almost as bad but made it. Its a life. Give it a fighting chance to survive.

2 options for external temperature probe. 1) Fox external thermostat / controller. Its mentioned quite often in this forum. 2) Extend the temperature probe to be placed inside your sump instead of your chiller. http://yeo99.blogspot.com/2012/05/diy-hailea-chiller-with-external.html

Are you using the original 'internal' Hailea chiller temperature probe? Or is your chiller modified to use an external probe? Which are the models of the 3 pumps used? What's the wattage of each? At first guess, I doubt its because of the 3 pumps but rather the flow rate does not match the specs of the chiller causing it to kick on/off quite often. Usually, an external probe will resolve this. Which is the pump/flow rate used for chiller?

Nice anemone. Bubble tips are always a nice addition.