Edmund Koh

Bro .. this one repeated post. Go check out the other topic with the same title

Iceprobe reserved for collection. Temperature controller still on sale at $55.

I think I changed my wavemaker's position until I have covered almost everywhere possible in the tank. LOL!

I will be getting a dimmer adapter for my RW-4 to further reduce the wave power below the lowest setting. Got the idea from one of the DIY topic here. Will let you know the results of it.

Haha! Well mine is working too I only put rocks in so that my corals have somewhere to sit on. The main biofiltration is in the IOS. Hmm .. you might wanna put your cheato in a plastic container instead of letting it float freely in the main tank. It can get pretty messy.

Hmm .. within your main tank? Do you have a picture of your tank? Sounds like an idea I had for my own tank

Anemone will keep on walking until it finds a place it likes. They like medium flow and medium to high light where their tentacles are. But would prefer a "cave" or a hole in the rock where they can hide their "body" away from strong light. Medium flow is where u see the tentacles moving but not being forcefully blown. Medium light is when u see the anemone is bright but not glaring.

Wow! Your tank is doing well. Hmm .. Bumblebee snails are carnivores .. got to make sure there is enough food for them to find. Or can think of reducing their population. If you intend to keep SPS in your tank, the anemone and hammer would pose a problem as they tend to sting other corals near them and your tank isn't very spacious. Might want to think of how you can arrange your corals such that stinging corals can be isolated. Temperature wise can consider 26-27 degrees to keep your electricity consumption down. Cooling water to 25 degrees would be a tough job for any chillers in our local weather. Most corals will still do well at 26-27 degrees.

For an additional $50 you will get a temperature controller which I bought from a bro here for $55 less then 2 weeks ago. For this temperature controller, I have also removed all the wiring and crimped them all up to ensure no stray wires coming loose. Total bundle price: $190

Your tank should be 1 ft deep. My tank is also 1 ft deep and I'm using an AI (similar to Ecotech Radion) for my tank and am only running it at 30-40% power. Abit overkill. Your beamswork should do alright if you put your photosynthetic corals in the upper half of the tank. Else u can opt for LED lightsets that have 1-3W per LED blub. Par38 full spectrum would be a good budget lightset that have been proven to work for corals. For LPS and SPS corals, u got to think about the amount of flow in your tank and more importantly, ensure that you have stable parameters, especially temperature and PH.

Marine Life doesn't have any spare Cheato to give. I asked them less then a week ago. Your best bet to get Cheato would be at Iwarna but you got to call them to ask as they may not have spare to sell. Hmm .. Kelvin, why not u pen down in a single reply what equipments you have at the moment, whether or not your tank have started (if yes then for how long and what was your cycling process like), what fishes you have or plan to get and what corals are u thinking of keeping (Softies, LPS or SPS). Will also be good if you can list down your tank's current parameters and temperature. This way we can help u better.

The hardwork will pay off soon enough

Hi Bros and Sis, Would like to sell my Iceprobe which I bought secondhand from a fantastic reefer. Reason for sale: My original plan was to have a 34L tank but decided to go for a 50L in the end and the Iceprobe is really at its limits for this size. I have since upgraded to an Arctica Chiller. The Iceprobe's power adapter has been changed to our local 3 pin-plug by its previous owner. I have also cleaned the entire heatsink up and replaced the stock fan with a silent PC fan (Specs of the new fan have been checked to match that of the old fan). The original metal vents have also been changed to plastic to prevent corrosion. All wiring have been done by crimping and connectors so u can be assured that no wires will come loose. It will also come with a square piece of glass with a hole in the center where the Iceprobe can be mounted. Installation of the Iceprobe would simply be sitting this piece of glass on the top of your IOS compartment with the probe sticking into the water. This will also prevent any splashes of water from reaching crucial components of the Iceprobe. Age: Less then 1 year (Previous owner) + 2 months (Me) = ~1 year. *Recommanded only for tanks with volume around 30-35L* My cost: Iceprobe - $120, PC fan - $28, Plastic PC Fan vents $10. Your cost: $140 neg.

I totally feel that ...... even though I built my tank around my equipment. But it is the challenge that makes this hobby an interesting one.

Hmm .. got consider getting the Hanna NO3 checker? At least u know he reading is accurate rather then what our eyes tell us.

Yups we can see your replies. I think your tank have compartments at the back that is partitioned away from the main tank. U can place your cheato in one of the compartment (preferably after the skimmer) and if you can, not in the same compartment as the return pump (the stray cheato will clog up your return pump). You can also get a hang-on filter, remove all filter mediums and replace it with cheato.

There used to be one along Balastiar (nearer to Boon Keng) called Reborn. It's closed quite a number of years back and did not reopen anywhere else. There are 2 shops near west coast. Marine Life and Polyart. Marine Life is a really nice place to go and Henry there wouldn't hold back any advises whether or not u buy from him. Polyart is a all in one 24hr fish shop. They do mostly freshwater but have a tiny section selling marine. There is also a huge range of equipments on sale there. Can get both shops' address and contact at the list of LFS topic.

80 is really high. 50 is usually the limit we set and 5-10 is good. If your tank is relatively small, try to do 10% water change daily and 50% water change at the end of the week. This will help to reduce your NO3. How I will do this is to mix a big Pail of water enough for a week's worth of 10% water change. This will reduce the need to keep mixing water everyday. But remember to stir before scooping the water out.

Even then, there still will be mishaps that can't be help. Like diseases or stress from transportation. One of my new clowns recently passed on and it touched a raw nerve in me because he knew he was going and even managed to find himself a really quite and dark resting spot in my tank. Took me half an hour and a torch light to locate him. After that, could see that his buddy was feeling upset too (not eating well, swimming slower then normal) despite just have 3 days together. On a happier note, I love how my fishes would immediately explore the tank and in the case of my new Mandarin last night, starting feeding on pods the moment it entered the new tank.

Dry rocks are pretty hard to find these days. If pest is a concern, one of the very option is to look for dry rocks from reefers or used life rocks then soak them in tap water before letting them out to dry. This ensures that at least u are still adding rocks with bacteria cultivating properties into the tank. Else.. Those mentioned above also have bacteria cultivating properties but they are on the expansive side. If u have bacteria cultivating media already, then u can look at artificial rocks that are not made to mimic the porous nature of real rocks. Nanyang Seaview have some of these in a few "template" shapes. Quite cheap too.

Haha! No worries Tofubox

Yups I'm using the smaller cubes. They are actually from the same brand and made of the same thing. N30 also carry the bigger blocks but u got to call them up to make sure they have the stock before heading down. And yups .. n30 is the fresh water tank maker at Serrangoon North. Can google them to find their website

Hmm.. Wait a week or 2 more. A couple of days isn't really considered a cycle. Mine cycled for 5-6 weeks before I even added any lifestock. I think Cos u use live rock, most of the beneficial bacteria are still living in them. But there will surely be die-offs from your live rock and that will soon cause an ammonia spike in your tank. You do not want to be caught in that situation with fishes in your tank. Ammonia can burn through ur fishes' gills. Wait for a week or so and continue monitoring Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate for at least the next 1 week. If there's no spike in ammonia I think u can start adding fishes 1 at a time which still continuing to monitor the readings once every 3-5 days. Fish waste would turn into ammonia once it decays. If even after adding fishes, the readings remain at zero, it's a good signal that u have enough beneficial bacteria to sustain the livestock. Again .. The golden rule is 1 inch of fish per week. But usually people stretch the rule a little.

I got mine from N30. Do call and check their stock level. Runs out really fast.

Eh .. I think readings above 25 are quite easy to tell. It's the reading from 5-25 that really make me feel like I'm colour blind. So by reading from the side I know if it's between 5-10 or 10-25 (if the colour shows way off the chart). So although it's meant for reasons below 10, I will still use it to help me determine if I have a reading that's below 10 or below 25. I think ultimately anything less then 25 is still pretty safe for NO3. Just got to make sure it doesn't hit 50.