Kelmen

buffing up chemical need time. You mostly will see the small difference after 1 month. KH low shouldn't affect much your livestocks, unless your pH swing very high.

IMO: I believe you may soften up its aggresiveness by providing it more empty shells. Try get the about right size for it. If hard to judge, get it big shell then. What kind of hermit crab is it? Got pic?

Never heard of such thing. Those "explosive sexual reproduction" probably is on caleurpa only.

understandable. Especially topic as "weired" as like this -> 6 lines wrasse eat Ich. Probably some crazy idea to some, so generally we dont expect search will help. But "unfortunately", you are not the "1st" one suspect on this And luckily I generally keep my eye on weired topic

That's one post I came across claimed or suspect to do so. Try a search in the diease or reef-fish subforum. Or you can try, then let us know GL

whenever one found a particular chemical "feriously" high, always try a 2nd checking, best use different testkit, either your one chk is screwed up or you missed some steps. If it high, it will eventually be brought down, so monitor for maybe few times 1st. Unless its creating ionic imbalance, like keep ###### away your KH.

You can "combine" all those "positive" feedback : feed + no feed => feed lesser

According to my some "hearing", cleaner shrimps can be kind of "unisex". Mean it dont need opposite ###### to reproduce. There's a scientific term for this stuff, dunno what. So, you can't really say your CS gonna be mama, a papa CS also can pregnant. So, forget about ###### in CS, probably no such thing.

I think you may buy and use some special tool to 磨 it to be smooth again. But personnally I　ｒｅａｌｌｙ　ｗｏｎｔ　ｒｅｃｏｍｍｅｎｄ　ｉｔ，　ａｓ　ｉｔ　ｍａｋｉｎｇ　ｉｔ　ｂｉｔ　ｔｈｉｎｎｅｒ，　ａｎｄ　ｉｆ　ｂａｄ　ｌｕｃｋ　ｓｔｒｉｋｅ，　ｙｏｕ　ｍａｙ　ｃｒａｃｋ　ｔｈｅ　ｇｌａｓｓ． Ｉｆ　ｎｏ　ｂｉｇ　ｄｅａｌ，　ｌｅａｖｅ　ｉｔ　ｂｅ，　ｏｒ　ｃａｎ　ｔｒｙ　ｓｏｍｅ　ｃｏｖｅｒｉｎｇ　ｕｐ． ＧＬ

MH bulb used for 1.5 year, isn't its time for a replacement?

kalkwasser dripper is a DIY (or you can call poor-man stuff) stuff for your mentioned purpose. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/nftt/index.htm I believe there's a long old thread somewhere here about DIY this stuff as well. Do a search. GL

assuming you talking just about the main tank. Apart from the skimmer, you need a water-circulation pump or powerhead to move the water around in your tank. Else you will endup a tank with portion rich in oxygen, while some parts are depleted in them. the water circulation is (suppose) moving water evenly in your tank, so the mineral, disolved gas in the water are evenly spread\distribute in your tank.

wah sai! You "handfeed"!!! So they eat your nose shits as well? (see your avatar )

IMO: I believe when we initially put in these bio rings or balls whatever, they are zero in those bacteria. So we put in bunch of them (usually more lah, unless you so pok-kai, put 10 - 20 only, so cham ) Later, those bacteria will grow up to a max, and its probably it grow more than we needed, so its best start to remove them. But since we dunno how much should be remove, so we do it in gracefully approach.

Or this... Idiot: Ah Cow ah, you there? You: .... Hey, who are you? Are you Ah Cow's relative? Idiot: .... No lah, I'm his friend... You: Hey! You know where's Ah Cow now? (put bad word here, like asking someone mother... ) , he borrowed my 5K SGD last 2 months, and now playing missing! You better tell me or when I found him he gonna lose 1 finger! I tell you!.... ...

IMO: I would advise you remove them by staging, not in 1 round. Else you lose the power to process ammonia and nitrite. Remove some part of each of particular 1 (depend on your choice), run the tests 2 - 3 days later, monitor, and repeat again. If all of them removed, you rely on your existing LR + sand for the ammonia and nitrite consumption? No replacement?

T5 should be good enough, you can buy 2nd hand ballast + reflector + casing\retrofit. Recommend you buy new bulbs. MH is no cheap, and getting cheap stuff may as well forget them.

老蕉 bully 新蕉 ？ in my experience, bully can make a fish so skinny, stomach shallow in! That's my old blenny -> new blenny. Luckily the new blenny jump into overflow, now staying in refugium, looks bit better.

Feed them once a while, maybe per month. Else, what's their mouth for? That's not for talking either.

Or we can play fool with the wrong-calling-bugger. Idiot: Hello, Ahmad kah? You:. .... (bugger, wrong # again) .... oh, yah, Ahmad here.... Idiot: Is that you? You sore throat ah? You: Yaloh, what's up.... go on and on, and go fly kite with him.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm dont think different size of tank would have any difference on this "standard". IMO: calcium level do depend. if nothing in tank explicitly need them, a bit lower should be ok.

Its quite a popular brand. Should be ok. What parameters you are in doubt? you can ask your friend or the LFS whois using different testkit for comparison.

like blank powders? sounds like black ich diessea.

doesn't look like an anemone, can't see any tentacles, look more like transparent sponge to me.

can't say my is fat, big tummy is more appropriate, algae blenny. Very worrysome too.