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Question about cyano


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  • SRC Member

Hi bros,

I have a quick question.

My current tank is under the cyano attack - situation is quite bad hence I am thinking of moving my entire livestock to another aquarium temporary while I remake the saltwater in my main tank.

My question is - since my live rocks are covered with cyano, should I put them back into the main tank immediately after the water is remade? I assume with the new tank water, there should not be PO4 inside to support the cyano - so hopefully the cyano on the rocks will be gone even after putting them back?

If putting the rocks back to main tank immediately is not recommended, then how should I treat the rocks to make them cyano-free first before putting back?

Thank you for reading this :)

Regards,
Jeff

Aquarium: 48" x 18" x 24" tank with 24" x 15" x 15" sump (approx. 150 gallons)
Equipment: Maxspect Razor 320W, Vortech MP40, Vertex Omega 180i, Eheim 1262 return pump, Hailea HS 66A, Bacteria King
Fish and coral food: Henry's Reefgourmet pellets, Preis coral energizer, Kent Marine PhytoPlex, Brightwell Reef Snow, Two-Little Fishies Marine Snow
Dosage: Triton Elements

IMG_0562small.jpg

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  • SRC Member

read

post-1182-0-60431600-1322062247_thumb.jppost-2241-0-43391700-1354511230.png

"Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee)

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  • SRC Member

Dont think I am in favor of dosing antibiotics in the tank. I see if I can find anything online. Thanks.

Regards,
Jeff

Aquarium: 48" x 18" x 24" tank with 24" x 15" x 15" sump (approx. 150 gallons)
Equipment: Maxspect Razor 320W, Vortech MP40, Vertex Omega 180i, Eheim 1262 return pump, Hailea HS 66A, Bacteria King
Fish and coral food: Henry's Reefgourmet pellets, Preis coral energizer, Kent Marine PhytoPlex, Brightwell Reef Snow, Two-Little Fishies Marine Snow
Dosage: Triton Elements

IMG_0562small.jpg

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Remove all the red slime as much as you can.

Run rowa till PO4 drop to zero .

Top up or amke salt water with DI water only

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

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[/quote]


 

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i know you're not in favor of putting antibiotics in it but it worked for me after just 1 pill. problem solved within 3 days. it was like the atomic bomb that ended the war. hehz... good luck in your battle!

  • Like 1

The Best Way Is To Keep It Simple.

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  • SRC Member

Thanks. I am battling them from many angles.

Avoid over-feeding

Performing 20% water change weekly

Dosing PO4 remover

Scrap the cyano off the rocks

And I am definitely seeing results :D

Regards,
Jeff

Aquarium: 48" x 18" x 24" tank with 24" x 15" x 15" sump (approx. 150 gallons)
Equipment: Maxspect Razor 320W, Vortech MP40, Vertex Omega 180i, Eheim 1262 return pump, Hailea HS 66A, Bacteria King
Fish and coral food: Henry's Reefgourmet pellets, Preis coral energizer, Kent Marine PhytoPlex, Brightwell Reef Snow, Two-Little Fishies Marine Snow
Dosage: Triton Elements

IMG_0562small.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have had this problem too, but went for the amox treatment, and then did the regular WC, adding phosphate remover and reducing my light timing

got it resolved at last,its such a relief to get this over with

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U can try Ultralife Red Slime remover, pretty efficient. Or alternatively u can try the following:

1) Get a double rated Protein skimmer.

2) Use only RO/DI unit to filter water and perform frequent water changes.

3) Get a phosphate reactor/FR.

4) Improve water movement by adding more wavemakers.

5) Setup a refugium to export nutrients.

6) Change your light tubes if they have expired ( more than a year of usage).

Display Tank : 36" x 20" x 20" Herbie overflow box design, Sump : 36" x 21" x 17", Frag Tank : 16” x 20” x 16”, custom built by Tank Culture.

Lightings : Ecotech  Radion XR15 Pro x 2 for Main Display Tank, Inled R80 x 1 for Frag Tank.

Chiller : Dalkin 1hp compressor with build-in drop coil.

Skimmer : Skimz Octa SC205i Protein Skimmer.

FR : H2Ocean FMR75 Fluidised Media Reactor with Hailea HX-2500 (Feeder Pump) running Rowaphos.

CR : Skimz Monzter E Series CM122 Calcium Reactor.

BPR: Marine Source Biopellet  Reactor with Continuum Reef Biopellet Fuel. 

Main Return Pump : SICCE Syncra ADV 9.0 & Jebao ACQ-10000 Water Pump.

Wavemaker : Jebao MOW-9 x2 for Main Display Tank & Jebao SLW-20M  Sine Wave Pump for  Frag Tank.

Water Top Up: AutoAqua Smart ATO Lite.

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Cyanobacteria are common in any tank where they may find small amounts of PO4 to assimilate. They are capable of taking the nitrogen they need straight from the water column. They require light in the yellow to orange range and many T5s and halides do have a spike in this area, often making it difficult to erradicate them. One of the easiest ways to get rid of them is turn off the lights for a week. This will not harm your tanks corals, but the cyanos will quickly retreat. They are extremely dependant on light.

Jamie

Jamie Vande

Vertex Aquaristik

Cologne, Germany

www.vertexaquaristik.com

jamie@vertexaquaristik.de

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