Terryz_ Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Ok now i can see the pic attached. The pic shows a Liopropoma sp. Still undescribed i think but has been a most common Liopropoma frequentlt appearing from Bali shipment. It is not L.Mitratum. Mitratum looks like this, it's more slender: LA labelled as Mitratum.. I see the L.sp often at CF... Quote Member of: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 LA labelled as Mitratum.. I see the L.sp often at CF... It's mislabelled then. Yes L.sp also known as yellowtail reef basslet i think, v cheap, rather common. Kept two before but same problem as L.Latifasciatum, all die of decompression problem. Indo fishes are jux not collected properly which makes these deepwater fishes so hard to keep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispar_Anthias Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 It's ok they are not available already. Cos if reli want to get one will not go for jumbo sizes. Mind sharing the price of LCK jumbo joc w me. Thanks. Was looking into the smaller ones and guessed that they are females thus my existing females will definately give hell. Pmed you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 the 3 jocs at LCK belonged to a reefer before lol. he had a harem of jocs. anyway, can someone explain how to do a QT tank? i have a question. is it u put the fish in the qt tank and then watch for any disease, then treat? or straight away copper them in the QT tank on the first day. anyway, my new tank will be 183 gallon excluding sump. i've already half planned my stocklist and alot of them are very sensitive to disease so i'm thinking of really going for a qt tank. C. joculator C. auriga (red sea variant) C. paucifasciatus F. flavissimus C. rostratus P. multifasciatus S. venustus C. declivis C. rhomboidalis C. lineatus P. marcellae tentatively these are some of the fishes i am going to try to aim for and hope to stick to it as close as possible. only 11 fish. slowly fill it up Trying to go for SPS dominated tank so don't mind putting so many butterflies inside. Many of them are not obligate coralivores and are unable to remove sps polyps anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terryz_ Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 the 3 jocs at LCK belonged to a reefer before lol. he had a harem of jocs. anyway, can someone explain how to do a QT tank? i have a question. is it u put the fish in the qt tank and then watch for any disease, then treat? or straight away copper them in the QT tank on the first day. anyway, my new tank will be 183 gallon excluding sump. i've already half planned my stocklist and alot of them are very sensitive to disease so i'm thinking of really going for a qt tank. C. joculator C. auriga (red sea variant) C. paucifasciatus F. flavissimus C. rostratus P. multifasciatus S. venustus C. declivis C. rhomboidalis C. lineatus P. marcellae tentatively these are some of the fishes i am going to try to aim for and hope to stick to it as close as possible. only 11 fish. slowly fill it up Trying to go for SPS dominated tank so don't mind putting so many butterflies inside. Many of them are not obligate coralivores and are unable to remove sps polyps anyway. In my opinion, there is no need for medication if there are no disease obvious... And it is also a chance to get finicky eater to get eating in the QT... Basically for me it is a tank to make sure the fish is healthy and eating before going into the main tank.. Quote Member of: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 anyway, can someone explain how to do a QT tank? i have a question. is it u put the fish in the qt tank and then watch for any disease, then treat? or straight away copper them in the QT tank on the first day. Different pple have diff QT practices. There are no hard and fast rules, but in general your QT should be small, abt 1 to 2 feet for easy water change every few days. No LR and no substrate. U can put in PVC pipe for hiding, no lightings pls as this add on excessive heat to the system and finally jux use a simple air stone to provide aeration. No need skimmer as QT rely heavily on massive water change so keep your tank small. U need to prepare medication for internal and external parasites and also other external prob like fin rot etc. Personally i've a bottle of cupramine and a bottle of melafix. I've enjoyed great success from these two products. It's hard to find a good internal parasite medication, e.g. prazipro, so if u can find it let me know. If i QT my fish i'll jux QT w melafix. I normally dun add cupramine unless it's necessary, that is there are telltale signs of ick or velvet or some unknown problems. To add copper or not right from the beginning also depend on the type of fishes, e.g. some centropyges dun handle copper well like Golden Angel. C. joculator Good Choice! C. auriga (red sea variant) Likely to get big and boring after a while, more suited to FOWLR C. paucifasciatus Nice fish! F. flavissimus Lemonpeel? A bit common and not the most friendly of centropyge. Maybe u mux hav it cos lemon ma.. C. rostratus Suggest u replace this w a marginalis, rarer and more interesting and something to wait and aim for P. multifasciatus I long gave up on this fish, getting a healthy one is jux so tough! S. venustus Same as multibar, but for it's beauty i'm willing to try another time if there's a small one C. declivis Raops are prone to internal parasites, u may wan to treat w prazipro or similar product for better success C. rhomboidalis Havent give up on this fish? Aim for something slightly higher like majorie or roseafascia or pintail, they're obtainable C. lineatus Nice but like scotts i find it loses it's vibrant color quite fast and can be ugly when it's obese. P. marcellae My all-time favourite prognathode, nicer than p.aya imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 In my opinion, there is no need for medication if there are no disease obvious... And it is also a chance to get finicky eater to get eating in the QT... Basically for me it is a tank to make sure the fish is healthy and eating before going into the main tank.. i actually agree with you on this. alot of articles i read say to copper new arrivals IMMEDIATELY. i find it redundant if there is no disease. what more, coppering a healthy fish might make it worse. but then again, alot of fish we buy from lfs are healthy and seemingly disease free. but put in tank only kena ich la etc etc. so what's the difference then of not medicating in the QT tank. this is something i don't really get. it's like in QT no disease but put in main tank nia all the disease come out. but other than that, qt is fantastic in acclimating new arrivals and getting them to feed properly first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuEl Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 If that happens it just means ich has been in your tank to begin with. Just that previous fishes have certain immunity and they don't get infected so much that it becomes so visible. It is possible to have a tank without ich but you will have to quarantine every single thing before putting it into your tank, including rocks, corals, sand, etc. Quote Always something more important than fish. http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 i actually agree with you on this. alot of articles i read say to copper new arrivals IMMEDIATELY. i find it redundant if there is no disease. what more, coppering a healthy fish might make it worse. but then again, alot of fish we buy from lfs are healthy and seemingly disease free. but put in tank only kena ich la etc etc. so what's the difference then of not medicating in the QT tank. this is something i don't really get. it's like in QT no disease but put in main tank nia all the disease come out. but other than that, qt is fantastic in acclimating new arrivals and getting them to feed properly first Adding copper immediately make sure all probs like ick velvet will be completely remove and that is understandable and advisable since velvet is v deadly! But i dun put copper becos my tank has ick so even after copper qt put into the main tank will still have ick. So sometimes instead i'll put the fish in the sump to contract some ick den put it back to qt so that it can learn how to fight ick on its own and if fail i can easily dose copper, ok i know i sound a bit stupid on this! If u can keep your display ickless by coppering every new arrival fishes, den there'll be no ick when u move from qt to main tank. But that's easier said den done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 anyway, can someone explain how to do a QT tank? i have a question. is it u put the fish in the qt tank and then watch for any disease, then treat? or straight away copper them in the QT tank on the first day. Different pple have diff QT practices. There are no hard and fast rules, but in general your QT should be small, abt 1 to 2 feet for easy water change every few days. No LR and no substrate. U can put in PVC pipe for hiding, no lightings pls as this add on excessive heat to the system and finally jux use a simple air stone to provide aeration. No need skimmer as QT rely heavily on massive water change so keep your tank small. U need to prepare medication for internal and external parasites and also other external prob like fin rot etc. Personally i've a bottle of cupramine and a bottle of melafix. I've enjoyed great success from these two products. It's hard to find a good internal parasite medication, e.g. prazipro, so if u can find it let me know. If i QT my fish i'll jux QT w melafix. I normally dun add cupramine unless it's necessary, that is there are telltale signs of ick or velvet or some unknown problems. To add copper or not right from the beginning also depend on the type of fishes, e.g. some centropyges dun handle copper well like Golden Angel. C. joculator Good Choice! C. auriga (red sea variant) Likely to get big and boring after a while, more suited to FOWLR C. paucifasciatus Nice fish! F. flavissimus Lemonpeel? A bit common and not the most friendly of centropyge. Maybe u mux hav it cos lemon ma.. C. rostratus Suggest u replace this w a marginalis, rarer and more interesting and something to wait and aim for P. multifasciatus I long gave up on this fish, getting a healthy one is jux so tough! S. venustus Same as multibar, but for it's beauty i'm willing to try another time if there's a small one C. declivis Raops are prone to internal parasites, u may wan to treat w prazipro or similar product for better success C. rhomboidalis Havent give up on this fish? Aim for something slightly higher like majorie or roseafascia or pintail, they're obtainable C. lineatus Nice but like scotts i find it loses it's vibrant color quite fast and can be ugly when it's obese. P. marcellae My all-time favourite prognathode, nicer than p.aya imo Above are my personal comments and preference and should not be taken too seriously. SPS = high maintenance so good luck. No big angels?? A goldflake or regal will be nice to add? No anthias? Bartlets hardy and beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 as for big angels, i've left them out for now. don't want to add too many fish so have to slowly narrow down my choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 as for big angels, i've left them out for now. don't want to add too many fish so have to slowly narrow down my choices. Yes adding fishes slowly (to prevent disease outbreak and tank stress) and keep stocking level low w only a favourite select few is the key to success. I really like the following article:Patience is the key to success. It's something that we all know but cannot follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Can someone tell me why this griessingeri goby looks a bit different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 Can someone tell me why this griessingeri goby looks a bit different? that's because it is! this is VERY nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Pictures time. Why haven these rusty flame hybrid some to us. I want one so badly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 The well know eibli x lemonpeel (Tigerpyge) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 this one also another Discordipinna sp. slightly different from the one you posted. the fin is grey and pointed in a different way. think too blur to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 The less well known but rarer eibli x heraldi (It's rarer than tigerpyge cos lemonpeel is considered eibli complex so they hybridize readily, but heraldi is bicolor complex and not eibli complex so when they hybridize it's even rare.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 The less well known but rarer eibli x heraldi (It's rarer than tigerpyge cos lemonpeel is considered eibli complex so they hybridize readily, but heraldi is bicolor complex and not eibli complex so when they hybridize it's even rare.) here's the pics.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 May hav posted this but still nice to see again. A completely washed out multicolor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 this one also another Discordipinna sp. slightly different from the one you posted. the fin is grey and pointed in a different way. think too blur to see. A bit blur but can still tell it's ugly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Is this fish nice? Something i can only dream to keep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 A bit blur but can still tell it's ugly! never said it was nice haha! never a fan of nano gobies. especially ugly, nano gobies ._> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior Reefer yikai Posted May 1, 2010 Senior Reefer Share Posted May 1, 2010 Is this fish nice? Something i can only dream to keep! the face abit scary but the body and tail very nice! colour is great. edit* oo just found out what it is. labrus bimaculatus. where do they come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digiman Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Smokey lemonpeel from LA and a hybrid lemonpeel. Actually i can never get how they define smokey and normal hybrid lemonpeel!! No difference wat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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