hmmm2

Thanks! I’ve been running it this way since the beginning so I’m unable to compared it with running only one chiller

Didn’t do much for the past month as I want to tank to be as stable as possible It is widely believe that keeping Kh as consistent as possible is important, my tank’s Kh now looks something like this and I’m quite pleased with it: pH on the other hand is lower than what I’d like it to be, but having a consistent pH is also important, so I’ll not do anything in the near future to raise it And to end it off, a quick picture of one section of the tank:

Iwarna brought in peacock mantis just last week, selling at $20+ Do Ensure that the thickness of your glass tank is sufficient as mantis shrimp is known to have the ability to crack glass that is too thin

Not many people like damsels, myself included But this Starcki’s damsel is very well-behaves, has tons of personality, and resembles my favourite dwarf angelfish - the resplendent angelfish- which is almost impossible to get now Another, more zoomed out, shot:

Hailea alone is able to bring the tank’s temp from 26.9 to 25.1 in less than an hour. I set the desired temp for hailea at 26, and, according to arctica temp probe reading, it will kick in at 26.9 and stop at 25.1. I’m not sure how to narrow the range; I read that it’s possible to use an external temp probe to control the older hailea models, but I’m not sure how it’s fine for the Hk series Arctica alone is able to bring the temp down by 0.1 after running for about 4-5 hours So hailea is the main chiller while Arctica is the backup, but not running a chiller for an extended period of time is harmful to it So the Arctica is set at 26.5-26.9 so that both chillers will kick in almost simultaneously when the tank is at a temp of 26.9

10. Alkatronic

Equipment list - everything is from the old set up, except the tank, cabinet, plumbing, sump, some new additional siporax and a second chiller: 1. Brace-less Display tank 5 feet long x 2.5feet wide x 18inches tall, 3 sides crystal clear glass, 15mm thickness 2. Sump with the following bubble trap design, base image courtesy of gmacreef: 3. Bean animal external overflow, position at centre 4. Lighting: 2x Kessil A360WE Tuna Blue and 1x Red Sea reef Led90 (probably need at least one more to fully cover the tank) 5. Dual return pumps with Dual chillers - 1x Abyzz A100 connected to Hailea HK1000A and 1x Sicce (forgot which model) connected to Arctica 1/5HP 6. Dosing pump: Jebao DP4 7. Skimmer: Deltec 1455 8. DT Wavemakers: 3x Skimz SS6.0 and 1x Jebao CP25 9. Biomedia: Siporax, bought 50L but I think I’ve only put in 30L so far I’ve a skimz algae reactor too, which I’ll set it up in the near future when the tank is more mature

Another 7 days later, with one bag of siporax from the old set up, and three bags of new siporax, and three newly purchased fish - kole tang, starcki’s damsel and a Fire goby. So basically the new set up is used as a QT without medication for these new fish:

Four days later: I’ve been doing 50-litres water change on the old setup, and use the water removed to fill up the new tank

New tank - to accommodate my livestock into a single tank - delivered

It’s sold out, thanks all

FTS of the 2-Feet:

New batch of All for Reef, only 4litres available Thanks

Iwarna would be my recommendation for such fish, and they would usually indicate when it is captive bred Do note that iwarna generally, but not always because clownfish and seahorse are notable exceptions, only bring in very premium fish for captive bred specimens As for your last point about local marine fish breeders, there used to be some who did clownfish and banggai cardinal, but I’m not sure if they are still doing it