Sengreef

no ... but water cloudy after mix with water at least 24hrs ...

water pump about 30mins ...

Sorry tat my poor english explain not clear enough ... My QT only a skimmer and nothing else ... using TM salt kH at 7~8 but when switch to Redsea Pro wc 30~40% kH up to 11~12 and most fishes died ... I have weekly wc without problem but after switch to redsea pro than most fish died so the oni possible reason is kH swing ... My main tank is running CR so TOO high kH salt is not suitable for me ...

I have use redsea pro for my fish quarantine tank measure at 12dkH and after 2 weeks without adding any kH buffer its still 10dkH ... My QT running tropic marine but when switch to redsea pro just wc 30~40% all fish died in the next day possible redsea pro kH too high and not suitable for those tank like mine tat running CR or two part dosing cos kH will go too high lately ...

I have use Prodibio velvet and spot for my 130L QT for 9 days treatment but it doesn't cure ich and velvet on my fishes and its not really reefsafe cause sps and anemone died but some corals ie: zoa, clove polyp, start polyp etc not open during treatment but still survive ...

me have different experience ... my RBTA with very long tentacles under 250w MH very solid red color and tentacles more than 6" long but after move to sump under 55w PLL lighting it become transparent pink with big bubble tip ...

Is this consider rare ? Saw this coral beauty in a Philippines shipment today ... Sorry for poor camera pic ...

1st pic look like desalwii to me but 2nd unclear if "emerald green base with pink coralites and red polyps" sounds like red planet ?!

valonia algae always exist in my 10years+ reefing the only way to remove is restart everything even LR bleached with chrorox still will come back ... rabbit, naso, chevron, foxface, lopez, vlamingi do consume valonia but not 100% depend on how hard working the fish and after they go crazy with pellet food they become very lazy to pick on valonia anymore ... my tank always at ultra high nutrient level due to heavy feeding but few times slowly adjusted to ultra low nutrient level and valonia still growing crazy or even growing more from my experience ... some time ie: replace rowaphos, wc etc u will found most valonia looks like dying away all bubble pop out left over the outer shield but actually is spreading will have more tiny valonia later ... the best fish is Sailfin tang (Zebrasoma desjardini) will consume non stop until empty but actual they are still present somewhere we or the fish kenot see or reach ... for me , there is no any method to settle so the best way is to prevent just inspect all LR and corals b4 put into the tank ...

looks like bubble tip anemone entacmaea quadricolor for me ...

As know tat HLLE mostly due to poor water quality but wat means "poor" ? lack or trace element , mineral , vitamin , omega , amino acid etc etc ?! carbon absorb many thing and finally the water lack of many thing tats fish needed ... have seen many ppl after stop using carbon and HLLE cured so from my experience tat long running carbon possible will cause HLLE ...

http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/hlle-and-activated-carbon-looking-link http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/activated-carbon-affirmed-as-causative-agent-for-hlle-disease

Agree tat bartletts the most easiest anthias for feeding and also maintain its color unlike others anthias ie: dispar, purple queen, tiger queen etc will fading after long keep for years ...

Really useful on brook ? will give it a try ... Thanks .

HLLE usually cause by long term running copper in a tank and long term running carbon in a tank also possible to cause HLLE ... Many ppl but not all of them successful treat HLLE with Octozin but me never try b4 ...

Me never success to cure brook from my reefing ... formalin dip about 40~50mins until brook detach from fish body but at the same time the skin of fish also will have little damage ... after 1~2 days the brook coming back but another dip sure kill the fish ... brook not only happen on clownfish but also on angel fish from my experience ...

The only anemone can control by your method is magnifica anemone only move on the island will not touch sand ... BTA move on everything ...

Spotted this from a wild fish shipment in LFS today mix with common clown . Is this common in the wild ?

Can WP40 connected to each others for master/slave control or all pumps run individually in a tank if running more than 1 pump in a tank ?

I'm using JBL copper testkit not sure how accurate but giving very consistent reading every time ... If u have LR , sand , bioring etc will adsorb copper and need dose atleast 2x or more from the instruction from Seachem cuppramine to reach 0.45mg from JBL testkit reading ... from my observation under copper treatment , the whitespot still appear on fish body and when the whitespot go off will come back 2nd time about 7~10 days if the copper level at 0.2~0.3mg but will not come back at the 3rd time so assume ich life cycle is 7~10 days under 27C ... if 0.45mg that will not come back 2nd time ... Tested Morish Idol can not survive more than 0.2mg and multibar drawf angel too ... not sure how accurate JBL testkit but i use it as reference because salifert testkit not consistent and some time useless even b4 expiry ...

Anybody can help to differentiate Sebae and Clarkii ? They easily available everyday but only called it african clownfish without knowing Sebae or Clarkii ... Found something interesting on Reef Builders tat Clarkii x Sebae spawning ... http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/22/true-sebae-clownfish/

its a tunicate or sea squirts tat usually called it tiger sponge in LFS ... a filter feeder ...

Any Sifu here pls help to explain about how to differentiate those commonly called African clownfish from Indo or Philippine either Sebae or Clarkii ? I have Bincintus from Redsea shipment but just bought a Clarkii or Sebae from Medan shipment with very similar color they look the same ... checking on net there is so many similar fish Chrysogaster , Latifasciatus , Chrysopterus , Omanensis etc looks like the same fish but just different in coloration but i think even a Clarkii clown also have many different color from different region ...

I'm running 4x 39w T5HO in a small 3ft frag tank and tested without chiller is 31C (All light on) and 30.5C (All light off) not much different ...

Thanks Digiman for the explaination tats y never seen this fish for years ... like it so much becos of they grow bigger and very odd looking face ...