patrick123

I dont' know about leapard, but my coris last time was like that. However, when they stay in the tank long enough, they will start to come out more and more often. Eventually, they are out most of the time. Just be patient.

Wow...your photography skill is Care to share what camera do you use? And what setting?

I have similar problem. If I keep the water level high, there is no microbubble. But if in the event of power failure, water from my 4ft skimmer and overflow box will back flow into the sump and potentially overflow the sump. So I have to keep the water level as low as possible. In certain cases, I even have to use a siphoning pipe between the chambers to draw water over so as to keep the first few chambers water level lower than the actual overflow buffle. Don't know how to solve this problem except to replace with a new and much bigger sump, but that won't fit into my cabinet. sigh.. Anyone has experience cutting the glass overflow buffle to make it shorter?

Shoelevy, Just one question, I see that there is quite a substantial drop of water level in the last chamber where the pump is. Doesn't this create a lot of microbubble? Just curious. Thanks.

BTW, the blue eyes anthias are actually the female of lyretail. Looks like one of yours is transforming to a male due to the absence of a male in your tank. You can search the LiveAquaria for their pictures. The down side from my experience is that if they transform from female to a male in captivity, the color will not be as vibrant as if they where in the wild. You can let us know if it is true.

Are the leopards reef safe? They look very stunning. The last time I had a coris and it became a nuisance and kept turning my coral on the sandbed upside down to look for pods or food. Ended up a few of my brains got damaged and never recovered. Not sure whether the leopards will do the same.

Interesting that there are many people who fight to get rid of micro bubble, and there are people who want to add air pump into the display tank.

Would like to sell this deioniser that I bought from ML about 1 year ago. The casing is in perfect condition. Just need to send back to ML for changing the resin. Any reasonable offer will be considered. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29515

make sure no tang in your tank too.

My experience is that they are not hard to keep once they get properly acclimatized in your tank. Mine live for 1year + in my tank until it became a nuisance keep picking on the prawn that I feed to my coral/prata. Finally had to catch it out.

FR is not necessary but it helps to improve the efficiency of your rowaphos and can make it last longer.

Congratulations on being TOM. Great looking tank.

Heard that all the coralife salt are made in China now. Don't know whether is real or copied salt.....

Bro, Seems like the H&S Sulphur reactor really works for the nitrate, that's why I'm asking about the PO4. Since you are running a fluidised reactor, then PO4 should be quite minimum.

Bro, You have a nice setup there. BTW, did you get a chance to measure your PO4?

AT, You are absolutely correct. I called her on Thursday and got hold of her, she was extremely polite and mentioned that she would look into the matter. On Friday, she called me back and told me that the delivery guy made a mistake and she promised to deliver a complimentary bouquet by 3pm absolutely free. Sure enough, her delivery man delivered the bouquet, not only the 1/2 dozen that I ordered, but a basket with 4 dozen of roses. To say the least, I'm extremely impressed and grateful. I will not hesitate to order from her again in the future as my wife's birthday is coming up.

May be marine is not in fashion anymore.

What a joke!!! Didn't deliver my flower and not even answering my call. LOL!!!!

Bro, Just a question. Since the skimmer has no down tube (so called gunk pipe), how does it prevent flooding or backflow through the air intake during power failure? I thought the whole purpose of the down tube is for this reason.

I think it is just nutrient in a bottle.

IMO, BH is a great reefer with great ethics. One time, I offered to buy chaeto from him, and he told me that he could not sell, since he got it for free from other reefers, but he offered to give it to me for free. Where to find this kind of people these days. I agree with AT that we need more BH in SRC, or sooner or later, more and more BH will be MIA. I used to have BH hp, but seems like it is disconnected. Anyone knows his new hp don't mind pm me. This is the kind of friend to keep.

Your tank will not be flourish with nuisance algae if you don't have high nitrate, phosphate and silicate. If you get rid of these elements, the algae will be gone in no time. So try to fix the rootcause instead of buying more gobie or cuke as they will not eliminate the rootcause and possibly make it worse in the long run. For rowaphos, it only get rid of phosphat and silicate. What you use to top up also makes a big difference as tap water contains a lot of silicate. For Nitrate, you need to have DSB, macroalgae, or de-nitrator. The only way to know what is your problem is to test the water with test kit.

If it is round pvc pipe, use cable tie to wrap around. If it is flat surface, drill a few tiny holes on the pvc plate and use cable tie to secure.

After looking at this thread then I realized why the off-the-shelf fluidized reactor are pricy. There are so much work going into it before the final assembly. I guess for the layman like me, it is better to pay someone to do it. Good work on your DIY, and good work to our sponsors who make these products readily available to us.

Bruce, How big a pack do they sell? How much? Thanks, Patrick