Otaku Reefer

my tots on quarantine, i think its very important step to prevent tank wipe. Plus i fortunate enuff my CFO let me keep 2 tanks lol. my QT tank is a nano tank about 12 gallon. my philosophy is QT tank is with rock sand and media. i think number 1 reason why fish die in QT is not becos of disease but due to ammonia so i choose to address this by QT with rock sand and media. my QT regime is cupramine 2 weeks follow by prazipro 2 weeks. cupramine i dose super slow, think quarter dosage. As for cupramine absorb by rock sand, i do use carbon after every treatment plus water change. i also QT inverts and corals in same tank without issue. i think the key is carbon and ample water change after every cupramine treatment to remove the copper and using the salifert copper test kit to check the level. during cupramine treatment, observation is very impt, see if fish eating well, if ok den dose abit more cupramine and go slowly. sometimes i see white spots appear which is ich, but dont go gan chiong and dose more, just observe first. normally the spots will go away after few days in treatment. if u see no spots, don’t celebrate yet, the ich might be hiding in gills or in egg form somewhere. i would perform a water change to reduce the cupramine conc and observe another 2 weeks, if no spots comeback should be ok liao, den start prazipro treatment for 2 weeks. During this period, i would observe the fish everyday i get back from work, using a blue color torch light to shine on the body. you will be able to see the ich easily if present. lastly, is to get healthy fish, my best exp is with Specialized aquatics, their fish is generally healthy and they do quarantine before hand already base on my knowledge, hence their more expensive pricetag. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

my tots on dosing, initially thinking of calcium reactor vs 2 part dose, calcium reactor got the CO2 tank which is huge no no to me as i no car and i dont wan drag a CO2 tank ard in public transport so i went the 2 part route, then i also thinking of trace element dosing and decided on the red sea ABCD, my personal opinion is that is works, as i witness my reverse sunset monti color up within few weeks of dosing, previously i was doing 5% WC and nothing color up. For my big 3 dosing, i settled in on the red sea ABC, for mag my consumption super low(measured on aquaforest kit) so i didnt dose mag, for my alk and calcium, used to be doing liquid form but since switched to powder form for cost control lol.. on the kamoer doser, it really save my day as i dun wan to manual dose everyday, and the dosage can split to multiple times a day for safety buffer. just need to double check the calibration and see if tubing got clog by the alk deposits every few weeks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Still learning here, just share some of my tots on the tank build Regarding the fuge and ATS, i started this route since day 1 since i tink nature method for nutrient export is less aggro than chemical method. i just add carbon and small amount of gfo in a mesh bag and dump into sump for phosphate control, base on my limited exp, i feel cheato and ATS can control nitrates very well, i seldom test for nitrates as they always come up yellow on the api test kit. But for phosphate not so well as i cant get below 0.1ppm base on natural export method, with GFO can get below 0.1. Den i also read on red field ratio so i guess nature has its limitations. For ATS flow and light is critical, i started off with china ATS unit but seems to do nothing and i worry the light not well built will have short circuit risk as light is exposed to water splashing,so i totally dump the lights and go for AI fuge. Then i see the GHA start to grow, but certain parts still yellowish looking and i read is due to low flow and i upgraded the pump flow. once i switch to the good lights and higher flow, GHA start to grow well, it will take time, but once it start it will be exponential, and my display the algae use to grow like weed on the rocks start to recede, with a old school method of toothbrush and siphon, the remaining algae is removed. Any new growth is taken care by the yellow tang and foxface. photos shows about 10days worth of growth for GHA on algae scrubber Cheato harvest every 2 weeks. And also those who say u need a fuge for critters i also tink is not true lah, i see a lot amphipods, (yes the big amphipods, not the small copepods)hanging out on the GHA on my ATS, i believe the key u must get good growth for the critters to go there. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi Fellow Reefers, My name GQ and here to share about my tank Spec Tank: Red Sea reefer 350 wavemaker: Nero 5 and Rossmont M7200 Return: Rossmont Doser: Kamoer X4 plus and F4pro Lights : 3x AI hydra 26, using signature series spectrum skimmer: Red sea skimmer 300 chemical filter: activated carbon and GFO in mesh bag Running refugium plus algae scrubber both powered by Ai Fuge. ATO: Using red sea inbuilt gravity fed Top off tank Chiller: Hailea HS 90 Dosing: Red sea ABCD plus Redsea calcium and Alk. Fish list Yellow tang, dory, 2 bicolor anthias, 3 chromis, 1 foxface, 2 nemo, 1 scooter blenny, 1 lawnmower, 1 leopard wrasse and 2 cleaner shrimp 2 hermit, and quite a few conch,nassarius, cerith, and 1 larger serpent star for sandbed control and some turbo snails. Water params Alk 6.9-7.2 calcium: 400-450 Mag:1450-1500 (consumption very low, never dosed since day 1) nitrate :1-5ppm (show up as yellow on api kit) phosphate: 0.05 to 0.15ppm (hanna ULR) I started reefing in 2017 started off with a Nano, Cade PR400 with hang on back skimmer refuge, started well and corals growing fine but hand itchy want to follow the no water change craze so start dosing and using biopellets to control nutrient , this resulted in tank crash and corals melting like ice cream. Then decide to upgrade to red sea reefer since see their tank look so chio.. converted my cade PR400 to quarantine tank. Fast forward to red sea tank, started late 2018 till today. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

depends on your goal and nutrient level target, if ur refugium is satisfy your maintenance schedule and able to maintain your desired nutrient level then theres no need to run ats, if your fuge not doing the job den probably u need to look at ats. which brand ats btw? careful with those china ats with claim “waterproof” led. there is risk for short circuit. happy reefing Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

how long they stayed closed? mine also closed for 2-3 days without any reason then suddenly ok.. any shrimps irritating it? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

fyi Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Not sure if helpful, but there is liquid calanus feed that can store at room temp, think can put on doser and feed. but i not sure copperband will eat. How long is ur bis trip? my bengai also die die wont take pellets, he can tahan 2 weeks without food ok...also my cleaner shrimps keep spawning now and then so i think he got live food also haha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

wow, this build looks epic, looking forward to updates! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Rob, is the seneye connected to cloud? can u remote access like the apex for the monitoring? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi Rob, As usual, thank you for the detailed advise appreciate it. yup u are right, i dont have par meter, will consider a seneye after this CB ends lol. Mine is a 4 foot tank currently lighted by 2 26HD, i just mounted the 3rd light today, took ur advise and mounted it higher for all 3 lights, now about 12 inches above water, used to be about 11 inches. And using the acclimation mode of the AI hydra. Reduce intensity by about 40% for 1 month. Will take this chance to monitor the corals reaction daily since we r all stuck at home lol. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi fellow reefers, I am intending to add a third hydra 26hd to provide better spread as some my sps suffer from shading.. Can kindly advise on acclimating corals to the new light source? how much intensity and for how long is considered safe? i currently have 2 hydra 26hd, means i need to reduce intensity of these 2 lights when i add a third one? Thanks! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Bro, have similar experience, but its my Nano IOS flexible return hose for chiller detach onto the floor due to not secure properly , my floor all wet had to spend whole evening cleaning and mopping, but luckily i only had 2 clownfish inside and they survived. This hobby has a steep learning curve with lots of ups and downs dont give up and enjoy the journey! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

bro i see u keeping cowfish, mine died after about 3months, suddenly stop eating, it has been eating seaweed and pallets very greedy, but i noticed it keep gulping air during feeding so i suspect maybe its death related to this. any special diet u feed to it? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It would be better if u could take a clearer pictures, picture abit blur Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

never use b4, but corals are not cheap stuff, not worthwhile if these lights affect their growth or outright bleach them, probably can use as refugium light. just my 2 cents. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi all, Any seniors reefers have kept successfully above corals >2 yrs? My stokesi sudden recede at the 1 yr mark, and now heliofungia also start receding at the 1yr plus mark without any reason, paarameters are fine and other corals including SPS is doing fine.. Read on overseas forum, these 2 corals are impossible to keep long term and i manage to buy both last time [emoji29][emoji29][emoji29]. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

probably due to sudden nutrient reduction due to carbon dosing, can easily cause tank crash if not manage properly, i did it b4 with biopellets haha...also your dkh i tink spike also, corals dont take alk swings and nutrients swings well. Good luck bro, hope ur hammer survive Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

drop off from stem means polyp bailout, can google more, reason most likely due to water conditions, stress..very low chance survive, this is final survival mechanism for LPS,like pilot eject seat from downing plane. there is small % chance of surviving but take note if u left too long and rot, might foul ur water. pls do check ur water parameters why this happen in first place and do a water change to correct parameters. just sharing, hope it helps u. good luck bro. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

i got buy from MD b4 its similar to taobao buying experience, u need get a third party warehouse in US and they will ship to u. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

u saw it killing and eating? hermit crab will molt, maybe the shrimp is picking on the empty shell, remember everyone is innocent until proven guilty lol Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

i dont think so, mg demand is low for corals, how u get so high resolution for MG, got 0.7 somemore ah, hanna got MG tester meh? for LPS my experience is torch is most easy to up the lorry, hammers and frogspawn seems to be more hardy if u confirm is accident den should be ok as long no infection, what about ur nitrates and phosphate? since u got 1 head is normal, u got check for anything irritating the other two heads. Pests? lastly, if still cannot find reason, to be safe i would suggest u do daily 10% water changes for 1 week to help smooth things out, certain things in the water we cant test. Just sharing my 2 cents. Good luck bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

your water parameters ok mah? Alk? phos-nitrate? did u do any major changes recently? if water is off, recommend do a water change, if u dont see any brown jelly coming out, should be safe, once u see brown jelly, u need to cut off the infected head otherwise will spread, go google brown jelly disease. Recommend dont stress the coral further if u dont see visible infection, go downhill fast.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Informative video on dosing using science and math. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

its breeder box type refugium, works by connecting a airpump to it, airpump will draw the water into fuge as it travel upwards, any excess water will overflow back to the maintank. Not too sure about its nutrient export ability but i know its great for breeding aphipods and copepods for nanotank/IOS tank Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app